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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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07-25-2011, 06:01 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Tail Control Rod Guide
What would cause the front guide to break? I have broken three of them and don't know why, it seems that they are breaking when I land the heli.
Jay |
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07-25-2011, 06:51 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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there's been threads about this, usually blamed on vibes
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T-rex 500FBL BeastX, I2 MRH & Swash, I2 boom support,( Bob's the Mahn ! ) DX7s. T-rex 550 I2 FBL head & boom support,KDE motor mount. CH-53E's 83-87. MCAS New River. FAA certified Airframe & Powerplant license holder since 1992 |
07-25-2011, 07:36 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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A vary fast oscillation causes vibes.
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The art in flying RC Helicopters lies in learning how to throw it at the ground and miss. Tarot 450 Pro - Chaos 500 |
07-25-2011, 08:01 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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After breaking several of the stock guides I started using these and so far so good. They will hold up on those big punch outs of the 500. That's why I was breaking so many of them.
WyDiablo http://helidirect.com/microheli-tail...500-p-7769.hdx |
07-25-2011, 10:02 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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I had the guides break too and made a CF rod that has survived several crashes, does not need guides, and has no vibrations.
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07-25-2011, 10:14 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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Jay |
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07-25-2011, 10:24 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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There is a thread here some where about making them. What I did was use a scrap piece of CF rod that had an ID close to that of the stock rod. I checked the length of the stock rod and cut the CF so that the threads from the stock rod would stick out the same amount. I then cut the stock rod about an inch in from the threads and dremmeled some small notches in the rod. I used 5 min epoxy and just glued them in the ends, making sure they were straight. The notches in the rod help provide grip so they don't pull out. Easy, quick, strong and light.
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07-25-2011, 10:37 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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listen jay next time when u r with the heli??hover for a few minutes then bring it down and grab the tail boom by the tail rotor i'll bet its super hot!!! why????? beats me ...thats y i changed to torque tube... i think that belt has to be just right.for those guides not to break...
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07-26-2011, 02:13 AM | #11 (permalink) | |
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07-26-2011, 08:00 AM | #12 (permalink) |
Join Date: Feb 2011
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no more tail rod guides....
this is what i wound up using to solve the issue... quick uk 600/700 rod ends with 3/16" carbon rod inside 7/32 aluminum tubing...i have a 4 bladed tail rotor with raptor 30/50 blades on one end and a full size ds-650 on the other...no rod guides..and no flex either....you could push a small truck with it...weighs 19 grams...but its also 110mm longer than stock, so a stock length should weigh 16 grams or so, only 4 grams more than a stock rod and 2 metal rod guides.
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07-26-2011, 08:52 AM | #13 (permalink) | |
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Jay |
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07-26-2011, 08:54 AM | #14 (permalink) | |
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07-26-2011, 08:57 PM | #16 (permalink) | |
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bearings to make heat. The boom gets hot at the tail end because the tail is attached to the boom. I bet the tail case is hotter than the boom which means the heat is being generated in the tail case. Use your sense of touch to find out where the heat is coming from. What is in the tail case that moves and can cause friction? Bearings and tailshaft are what move. Or doesn't move in the case of a seized up tail case bearing. I bet if you replace both bearings the heat problem will go away.
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07-26-2011, 09:00 PM | #17 (permalink) | |
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HK Best Of Custom 450s & 500 Build Different! |
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07-26-2011, 11:29 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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Buy these ends:
http://www.readyheli.com/TXT-242BK-Q...k_p_37346.html Buy this rod and cut down to the right size and you're done. http://www.readyheli.com/TXT-241-Qui...d_p_36428.html Works great, lighter than stock, and not rod guide required.
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07-27-2011, 01:37 AM | #19 (permalink) | |
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07-29-2011, 06:25 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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