HOW TO GUIDE FOR EXTREME MCPX MODDING

[vadimpelau]

Will the 120 SR tail blade (only) fit onto the MCP x?

And will it bring any benefit over stock, without replacing the motor?

[UliZ]

Originally Posted by vadimpelau

Will the 120 SR tail blade (only) fit onto the MCP x?

yes and yes And will it bring any benefit over stock, without replacing the motor?

yes and yes - it will fit and be a major tail improvement (even with stock brushed motor - tested it w a 4G3 tail rotor) but ...
It's weight is too high to be a real winner with stock motor configuration, so one better might do that with BL main motor (still wainting für mine ).

All you'd have to do is to dismount the 120SR's motor including the holder from it's boom - rewire (wires too are heavy on 120's tail) and fix that 3mm slot on the 2mm carbon rod from mCPX (either with EPO or - my favorite - using a little screw).


HTH
Uli

[so-fly]

Originally Posted by vadimpelau

Will the 120 SR tail blade (only) fit onto the MCP x?

And will it bring any benefit over stock, without replacing the motor?

The ID of the tail blade is larger than the stock MCPX. it'll slip and I've tested it and found it does help BUT puts a strain on the motor

[vadimpelau]

Thanks guys. I don't want to replace the motor since I'm still a beginner and flight time is more important than acro for the time being.

[Brados1221]

Nice one
Ive seen a cnc swash and blade grips on horizonhobby.com part number- mhemcpx012.... Or a good cheap quick fix for a broken swash @ www.youtube/brados1221

[Casualflyer23]

Originally Posted by so-fly

HOW TO GUIDE FOR EXTREME MCPX MODDING

EXTENDED TAIL BOOM

Materials needed:
2MM Carbon Rod
Dremel with cut off wheel or Xacto Knife
Sand paper
CA glue
Stock MCPX tail assembly

Step One - Remove the old carbon tube from the assembly (make sure not to damage the wires when doing so) then place the tail motor with the holder off to the side

Step Two – Measure the new Carbon rod to your desired length (approx. 1-1.5 inch longer than stock) Proceed to cutting the rod with either the dremel or Xacto knife

Step Three – Once your desired length is cut you can then cut a flat on the side of the rod like the original one. This is done by placing a piece of sand paper on a flat table edge and sanding the side of the rod to get that flat. A alternative is to cut into the rod with an Xacto about .5MM and then using the knife again splice the rod to that cut you just made.

Step Four – Place the new rod back into the frame with the notch facing downwards, once this is done you can reinstall the tail motor. Be sure to turn the motor to where its 90 degrees with the main shaft. Once desired position is set, place a dab of CA glue to secure it *optional*

Step Five – Wrap the wire around the Carbon rod and plug it back into the Main board.

ENJOY!

Hi im new here to the Helifreak Forums and i cant thank you enough for this i just went through 2 tail booms before reading this and didnt want to spend the money when all i need is the carbon rod

[Darkkaos]

Yeah this is great stuff! Good info

[Arecee]

The tail boom fix is good to know but how do you reattach the tail motor wiring after pulling the wires through the boom?

I just happen to have CF tube which I used for my tail servo rod on my 450.

[so-fly]

wrap it around the carbon rod

[Arecee]

Originally Posted by so-fly

wrap it around the carbon rod

I meant to the connector that plugs into the 3 in 1. Obviously it won't pass throguh the tube or do you unsolder the tail motor?

[Tbone675]

Originally Posted by so-fly

wrap it around the carbon rod

[johnsma22]

Originally Posted by Arecee

I meant to the connector that plugs into the 3 in 1. Obviously it won't pass throguh the tube or do you unsolder the tail motor?

Originally Posted by so-fly

Step One - Remove the old carbon tube from the assembly (make sure not to damage the wires when doing so) then place the tail motor with the holder off to the side...

I'm curious about this step as well. Are you cutting the cf tube off from around the wires, or are you removing the wires from the motor, pulling them through the cf tube and then re-soldering?

[Tbone675]

you all are over complicating it, bend it till it breaks and split the boom in half (lengthwise)...............

[johnsma22]

Originally Posted by Tbone675

you all are over complicating it, bend it till it breaks and split the boom in half (lengthwise)...............

Thanks for your great wisdom, and your unprovoked, unsolicited, unnecessary and unwanted attitude. Mutual Respect, remember?

[Arecee]

Originally Posted by Tbone675

you all are over complicating it, bend it till it breaks and split the boom in half (lengthwise)...............

Yah, I figured that out after I got home from work and the hobby shop where I got the CF rod (Midwest Products, $5 for 40" of rod).

I split it right down the crack, gluing was not an option because the tube split in several places.

I wrapped the wire around the rod an it works better than before ( I extended the length by .25").

[Tbone675]

Originally Posted by johnsma22

Thanks for your great wisdom, and your unprovoked, unsolicited, unnecessary and unwanted attitude. Mutual Respect, remember?

thats a lot of "u" words, let me fix it so as not to hurt any feelings.


you all are over complicating it, bend it till it breaks and split the boom in half (lengthwise)

[johnsma22]

Originally Posted by Tbone675

thats a lot of "u" words, let me fix it so as not to hurt any feelings.


you all are over complicating it, bend it till it breaks and split the boom in half (lengthwise)

No hurt feelings here. Just thought there was no need for the condescending attitude when responding to a question that you figured out the answer to while some may not have. I thought that's why we had this forum. To learn and help each other. At least that's why I signed up. Anyway, thanks for the answer.

[DeviousLemur]

Hey so-fly, thanks for the great info in this thread. I'm trying to troubleshoot a brushless conversion that I've been working on based on the original post, and I had a few questions:

- It looks like there's a surface mount LED on the brushless signal converter. Is it supposed to light up when the battery is plugged in, or when throttle is applied? My motor doesn't want to start up after soldering everything together, and I suspect that the problem might be the signal converter (the LED isn't lighting and I'm getting 0 volts on the three pins on the "ESC" end).
- From your pictures, you have the "Battery|ESC" wires on the ESC connected to the motor, and the "Motor" wires hooked to the main board. Did you flip the label on the ESC or something?
- It looks like you have the white wire from the ESC hooked up to the "S" pin on the signal converter, and the "+" and "-" pins aren't connected to anything and are left floating. Is this right?
- You mentioned using the stock 8T pinion. Does this mean that you pulled the stock pinion off the MCPx and put it on the Novus CP motor? If so, how did you get it to fit (since the shaft on the brushless motor is a bit larger diameter)?

Thanks a bunch, and thanks again for posting this stuff.

[DeviousLemur]

No bites? I thought there would have at least been one or two responses considering that this thread is stickied. Has anyone out there besides so-fly used the setup as described in the first post, either successfully or otherwise? What about just using the EA-048 brushed to brushless converter?

Here are a few follow-up comments to my last post. (Apologies in advance if I'm just being dense, its been a long time since my electrical engineering courses in college).

- The wiring diagram is missing power going to the EA-048, and only shows signal in and signal out.
- It looks like the brushless converter requires 5V +/- 10%, but the Heli-Max ESC doesn't have a 5V regulator. I tied mine to the battery, but that's going to be just outside of 10% of 5V. Maybe problematic, maybe not.
- Once I got the brushless converter powered, I got no throttle response with what I thought was the correct polarity on the lead from the 3-in-1 board. Reversing the polarity on this lead caused the motor to spin up at zero throttle, but I got nothing as I moved the throttle higher. I've read that Heli-Max and Walkera output a pulse that is opposite in polarity from what EFlite uses, so this might be why I needed to reverse the polarity on the motor lead in my setup.
- After playing around with endpoints and reversing on my TX I still couldn't quite get the motor to spin up in all but a very narrow range of throttle input, and it seemed to be a constant and fairly low speed.

I've read that others have had trouble with the EA-048, and it sounds like people are having better luck with the combination of a thesteve converter and XP-7A ESC. I'm going to give the brushless conversion another shot with these components and will post here with the results.

[liftbag]

Originally Posted by DeviousLemur

No bites? I thought there would have at least been one or two responses considering that this thread is stickied. Has anyone out there besides so-fly used the setup as described in the first post, either successfully or otherwise? What about just using the EA-048 brushed to brushless converter?

Here are a few follow-up comments to my last post. (Apologies in advance if I'm just being dense, its been a long time since my electrical engineering courses in college).

- The wiring diagram is missing power going to the EA-048, and only shows signal in and signal out.
- It looks like the brushless converter requires 5V +/- 10%, but the Heli-Max ESC doesn't have a 5V regulator. I tied mine to the battery, but that's going to be just outside of 10% of 5V. Maybe problematic, maybe not.
- Once I got the brushless converter powered, I got no throttle response with what I thought was the correct polarity on the lead from the 3-in-1 board. Reversing the polarity on this lead caused the motor to spin up at zero throttle, but I got nothing as I moved the throttle higher. I've read that Heli-Max and Walkera output a pulse that is opposite in polarity from what EFlite uses, so this might be why I needed to reverse the polarity on the motor lead in my setup.
- After playing around with endpoints and reversing on my TX I still couldn't quite get the motor to spin up in all but a very narrow range of throttle input, and it seemed to be a constant and fairly low speed.

I've read that others have had trouble with the EA-048, and it sounds like people are having better luck with the combination of a thesteve converter and XP-7A ESC. I'm going to give the brushless conversion another shot with these components and will post here with the results.

I have used for some time the EA-048 converter and then I went to the converter from Steve.

The negative input of the EA-048 converter must be connected to the hot pole of the motor connector.

You need to reverse the throttle channel on your TX.

Yes, you have a very narrow range of throttle input and, depending on the type of esc, the range of use could position itself in the first or second half of the adjustment range.

You have to experiment. With motor connected, you should arm the esc, place the throttle stick to center and manually adjust the value of throttle channel to determine the limits.

The gas channel is inverted, so you have to set the throttle hold value to 100% instead of 0% to stop the motor.

When you connect the battery to the 3 in 1 the throttle channel must be at 0%, otherwise the helicopter does not arm.

Your throttle curve presumably will be something like 6% to 36% or 56% to 86%, so the helicopter can not arm itself when you connect to the battery.

You need to pull throttle hold and then release it to arm the helicopter.

Just my 2 cents, hope it helps.

P.S.
The converter TheSteve is by far better for mCP X