After 50+ flights - my thoughts and tips that worked

[CX2Pilot]

Originally Posted by trickybit

I'm not sure that cut's deep enough to keep the wires from getting crunched.

Can you move them around or are they quite pinched?

Nice idea.

It's cut 1mm deep. Plenty of room for the wires to move around.
The one picture is deceptive so I deleted it.
It does look like the wires could be crushed, it's just the camera angle.

Tom

[trickybit]

Originally Posted by CX2Pilot

It's cut 1mm deep. Plenty of room for the wires to move around.
The one picture is deceptive so I deleted it.
It does look like the wires could be crushed, it's just the camera angle.

Tom

so, 1mm in, the solid rod fills the tailcase hole; where do the wires fit?

Even the flat-spot is more than 1mm in.

I've made really long flat spots that from the tip all the way outside of the tail case, and that sort of works.

[CX2Pilot]

I added another picture for you in post #59. It is a close-up.
If you were to grab the motor wires coming out of the U-shape cut, you could
move them back and forth 1mm. Directly under the U-shape cut
is the flat spot on the tail boom. So the motor wires don't get pinched
and they come out of the U-shape cut to clear the tail fin mount.

Hope this helps.


Tom

[trickybit]

Thanks, Tom. I just thought the flat spot was way more than 1mm in there, but maybe you made it bigger than 5mm (stock).

But back where the tail case has a flat spot in the hole, aren't your wires crammed in with no space? flat spot on the rod, flat spot in the hole, tight fit, no space.

Compared to my approach of making a very long flat spot, the only diff seems to be how you can make clearance for the tail fin to clip. I was able to scootch mine aside and hook up no problem; I even put a little shrink wrap in there. I'll have to post a photo, not that I recommend the approach.

[CX2Pilot]

Your welcome.
I just looked at mine again. You are correct, the 5mm flat spot goes into the motor
mount about 10mm. So my motor wires are tight in the motor mount and boom then come out of the U-shape cut. The only function of the U-shape cut is for the motor wires to completely clear the tail fin mount which they do. So for the motor wires to move freely you would need to make the flat spot on the boom longer, another 5mm.


Tom

[CX2Pilot]

I have deleted my post #59.
This is due to running the motor wires through the tail motor mount
and flush against the flat spot only lets the boom into the mount 5mm. This is not far enough. It should go in 10mm.
I now run my motor wires completely outside the tail motor mount.


Tom

[trickybit]

Originally Posted by CX2Pilot

I have deleted my post #59.
This is due to running the motor wires through the tail motor mount
and flush against the flat spot only lets the boom into the mount 5mm. This is not far enough. It should go in 10mm.
I now run my motor wires completely outside the tail motor mount.


Tom

Cool. So that would be a desoldering job? Or can we crack open the tail case, pull out the wires, and glue it back together?

[CX2Pilot]

Desoldering job would be best. I wouldn't trust the strength of gluing it back together
after cracking open the tail case if you are going to 3D. There will be a lot of impact
on it in a crash. You could re-glue it if it broke though.
Desoldering/soldering at the motor wire plug would be the easier than at the motor connections which
are short and don't give you much room to work with.



Tom

[fantam]

I did the solid, extended tail boom mod and it has really helped with the tail blowouts. Thanks to all that discovered and tested this mod. HH should make this change to new production models.

[Rahulgaba]

a buddy of mine just did a mod to his canopy which i thought was very good, and it works VERY GOOD for him..

He removed the rear canopy mounts (or broke them in a crash.. lol) and the front ones.. so you have a frame with no mounts..

take the cf rod may be even the same one as you were using for the tail boom, and cut it to the required length of the FRONT mounts, EPOXY that sucker on,

For the rear mounts.. here is an alternate.. use thin velcro strips on the battery and the canopy.. and when you put the canopy on, just snap on the grommets to the front mounts, and stick the velcro's , and it holds up the canopy pretty well!!

I hope this helps. I havent had to do this mod yet. I have an old frame lying around to see how it works.. I am hoping this is not something that was already posted. lol.. I didnt go through all the pages.

BUT regardless, hope this helps!

[2cants]

Ive used duck tape to line all my canopies, especially the mounting holes. havent had a broken canopy since.

the duck tape adds little weight be reinforces the canopy big time. placed inside so you dont see it.

[mejmea]

Originally Posted by 2cants

Ive used duck tape to line all my canopies, especially the mounting holes. havent had a broken canopy since.

the duck tape adds little weight be reinforces the canopy big time. placed inside so you dont see it.

Interesting idea (especially since I've fixed a lot of canopies unfortunately!). Have you found any noticeable decrease in flight times or performance due to the extra weight? It might actually help in some ways as I think the mCPx tends to be a little tail heavy to begin with, particularly if you had the longer tail boom.

[badfrog]

Originally Posted by 2cants

Ive used duck tape to line all my canopies, especially the mounting holes. havent had a broken canopy since.

the duck tape adds little weight be reinforces the canopy big time. placed inside so you dont see it.

I have been fixing cracked canopies by first applying scotch tape on the outside of the canopy across the crack, then applying a bead of hot glue on the INSIDE and before it sets, smearing it with my finger so that it is just a thin layer (yeah its kinda hot on my finger!!!). once set, remove the scotch tape. if done right and the cracked edges were lined up properly, it is difficult to see where the crack was! I have done this successfully with cracks around the grommet, leaving the hot glue a little thicker at the grommet hole, then once cooled heat a paper clip and "drill" the grommet hole effectively replacing the grommet with a "hot glue grommet".

[JT_Amain]

Thanks for the tips, this has definitely helped a newbie pilot.

[whodothevoodoo]

Originally Posted by Finless

OK after 50 some odd flights and crashes all over the place, it was time to do some mods, repairs and maintenance. Here are my thoughts and tricks. Big thanks to some of you guys for coming up with most of these.

Enjoy,
Bob

Bob,

I'm a total rookie to these new heli, but when setting up the pitch, I was wondering if a small digital scale might be of any help. If the scale will read into the negitive like mine will. Could you tape the heli to the top of the scale and then zero the scale. After that you could run the blades up and see how much lift was registered on the scale?

Don't have a clue weather or not that infomation would be of use. Probably just too mcuh bother.

Thanks for all the good info on this thread.

Bert

[Heli Jim]

I don't think that would be very helpful. For most of the time,
with this heli, WITH THE THROTTLE HOLD ON, set the stick
in the middle and check to see that the blades are flat/even/level

That's all there is to it.

[mull80]

if this helps anyone i used a main shaft from a blade cx as my tailboom. a dab of ca on each end and pop on your factory motor mount, wrap your wires around the boom and your ready fly.

[eddo22]

Just found this write-up...awesome info for an sweet little heli. Thanks Bob!

[CP Newbie]

I am wondering if anyone is changing any of the suggested settings that are in the manual?

Mainly the pitch?

The Heli feels very underpowered with 75% pitch

[everydayflyer]

Sure everyon plays with the pitch, TC ,PC setting allof the time.

Here is the thing however, the brushed mCPX does not have tons of raw power. More than 70% or so of Pitch (collective ) will only bog it down more and a slower turning head produces less thrust (lift) no matter how much pitch you crank intio it.

One most learn good collective management (finess) and the brusk stock with an extended talil boom will fly great. No hard 3D but flips, stationary rolls, inverted ,FFF figure eights etc.

This is how it is done

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...52&postcount=1