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450 Class Electric Helicopters 450 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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08-06-2008, 02:20 PM | #41 (permalink) |
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Dude,
Nope, my belt does not rub against anything. I suggest you recheck your belt tension....although I do run my belt very loose and still doesn't rub. Skarn |
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08-06-2008, 03:00 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Trondheim Norway
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I have just done the same to my CopterX and flown 2 packs on it after remowing the pulley, and so far no threadmarks on the belt and i have my belt a litle loose. (have just tighten it.)
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08-06-2008, 03:23 PM | #43 (permalink) | ||
Join Date: May 2006
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Quote:
Quote:
But seriously. Dude, did you put it back on? It shouldn't rub on a screw, that would be really loose, and even if it did it shouldn't loosen the screw. Are you using blue Loctite on the screw threads. It shouldn't come loose for any reason. Last edited by Gary JP4; 08-06-2008 at 07:19 PM.. |
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08-06-2008, 03:40 PM | #44 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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No, that screw was not tighten yet, else I would have never seen it move and know of rubbing. I think I lucked out with the screw loose to realize the potential problem. Like I said, I do have some slop in the belt with the pulley off and if I tighten the tension, it will probably clear the screw but it won't be by much. And even if it is not rubbing, knowing how close they are to each other seems very scary.
It seems that people who lube their belt have less problem with the pulley so option 1 is to lube and continue using the belt. Option 2 is to remove the pulley, tighten the belt and live with that millimeter or so of clearance. Maybe that pulley has a design function after all. Either that or redesign the housing to move the upper inner housing screw a little higher. |
08-06-2008, 04:29 PM | #45 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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Good observation. I'll have a look at mine to see when I rebuild it tomorrow. I would think filing or grinding the machine screws shorter so they are flush with the inside would work, making sure you use locktite! IMO
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08-06-2008, 04:46 PM | #46 (permalink) |
Join Date: May 2006
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Or do both.
When I originally had problems with the belt shredding the belt was ridding up the pulley flange and hitting the case instead of going through the cutout in the center. That is to say the case has a square cut out in the center for more clearance and the belt was going off to the side and up the flange of the pulley and hitting the outside of the belt on the edge of the case cut out. That can happen with or without the idler pulley. Mine was with. That was the cause of my belt shredding IMO and I think usually is. Are you sure your belt was not doing the same when it rubbed the screw? Anyway that is something to think about. Lubrication of the belt will prevent this. |
08-06-2008, 05:54 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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I removed it right from the beginning. That was 5 months ago. The only difference i left the bearing that was inside the pulley so it looks nice.
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08-07-2008, 08:59 AM | #48 (permalink) |
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Without the idler pulley, you can run the belt very loose...a LOT of us do that and it doesn't rub anything. Just try it bro! We wouldn't steer you wrong
Skarn |
08-07-2008, 12:45 PM | #49 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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Furthermore after looking at your pic you can remove the bearing, machine screw for bearing, the upper and lower spacer, and the machine screws for those also. They are all doing nothing.
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Chopper Patrol JR-XG14, JR Forza 700, Warp 360
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08-07-2008, 03:43 PM | #51 (permalink) |
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Most peeps that do that (myself included) simply leave the idler's bearing in place for looks and nothing more. Some no like Z void otherwise but do like the damn-well'en pulley gone good, personal choice
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08-07-2008, 05:47 PM | #52 (permalink) |
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Wow!
I guess I'm one of the lucky ones, who've been running my idler pulley for 2 years now, and not one problem (touches wood). I use a good silicon spray on my pulleys/belt and just the right tension, so that may be it? Either way, if it ain't broke, why fix it? But yes I agree also, from an engineer's point of view, it isn't really needed, so if it's creating problems, remove it. Rick.
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Rick. Heli Pilot, Engineer & Mechanic for Team Dirka Dirka! |
08-08-2008, 08:42 PM | #53 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Get it gone and be done with it! I can see that the idler SHOULD work but for some reason it just doesn't..... Take it out and fit an uprated belt. Dont take chances wit h your heli....least of all with the tail!
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Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.. |
08-09-2008, 08:34 AM | #54 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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I'm not against removing the original pulley but after replacing it with the Heli-Max guided pulley (no lube needed) I haven't had any problems. If something should happen I will remove it right away and not look back but for now if it ain't broke why mess with it.
As for the rest of you anti-pulley freaks, stop being a 'Pulley Bully'!
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T-rex 450SE V2, 250SE / Blade CX2, mCX, mSR, SR / Walkera 5G6, 4#3B, 4G3, CB100 / Piccolo Pro / Hornet II / HBK 2
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08-09-2008, 11:29 AM | #55 (permalink) |
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The reason for the removal of my pulley and the reason for not going with the flanged version was not only to circumvent any possible problem with the belt that I may have in flight. It was to reduce the drag both version would have introduced into the system, my Heli runs more efficient without it
Regardless yes it's a personal choice but I do think it's more important that one try the idea for themselves and see what one learns. Trust me that will be quite a bit more rewarding than any speculations you would have. The next most important rule "there's no need to be a Idler Pulley Nazi"! If you do you will suffer the torment of Sarcasmo the most evil sarcastic plebe this side of the planet. J/K folks as I don't think anyone here is/was being an Idler Pulley Nutbar. Just that the people that have done this are as certain has one can be that it all this works and just maybe a little too passionate in passing that info on to their fellow Freaks. Just have fun guys |
08-11-2008, 08:54 AM | #56 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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Here's an interesting point that no one has brought up.
The Newest design in Helis, the Trex 500. No pulley, they didn't include it in the 500. That does speak loud to the fact of not needing a pulley. Just a thought. |
08-11-2008, 05:06 PM | #57 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
On another note if the pulley is really not needed then why does every aftermarket replacement or upgrade tail assembly have one?
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T-rex 450SE V2, 250SE / Blade CX2, mCX, mSR, SR / Walkera 5G6, 4#3B, 4G3, CB100 / Piccolo Pro / Hornet II / HBK 2
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08-11-2008, 05:56 PM | #59 (permalink) |
Join Date: May 2006
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Paradigm.
Definition: A set of assumptions, concepts, values, and practices that constitutes a way of viewing reality for the community that shares them, especially in an intellectual discipline. Read, we have always done it that way. For God's sake, engineers aren't Gods. They aren't gods are they? |
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