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RichardJG · 12-24-2008, 05:05 AM

Hello all,
My first post about my second serious electric helli. Just bought a Trex 450S ARF and am progressing steadily with the rest of the build. Everything is going well at the moment. But, just one thing that concerns me and is to do with the flybar frame. (which I didn't assemble). It has some lateral movement, about 1.5mm, it looks as though it is assembled correctly, but looks as though it could do with a couple of washers to take up the slop. Can anyone confirm that there should this amount of clearance. Comments please. Thanks!

Merry Christmas
RichardG

TomRex · 12-24-2008, 07:24 AM

If it the plastic flybar cage then squeeze the sides in and tighten the screws.

entropysbed · 12-24-2008, 08:27 AM

This is normal on the 450S/SA and seems to be a plastic issue - not like this on the V2 head - as was said, squeeze them together when tightening and all is well.

entropy

-Gamah · 12-24-2008, 10:26 PM

I have this too... I've squeezed and tightened to the point where I'm afraid of stripping/breaking something, and I still have some slop. This is a 450S with plastic head parts... what to do if it just won't close the gap?

helijack · 12-25-2008, 01:15 AM

It is permisable to use a small washer to take up the slack in the flybar cage. Look in your parts bag for it. It's there.......it's a very small one.......very thin. Use two if necessary.

RichardJG · 12-25-2008, 06:01 AM

Hello,
Thanks for tips, it looks like the metal parts of the frame are too long, so I think I will be using distance pieces to take up the clearance rather than squeezing the frame. Won't squeezing the frame put extra friction on the flybar movement? I think it will, so like I said, I will be using distance pieces.

Thanks & Regards
RichardG

TomRex · 12-25-2008, 03:56 PM

I believe the flybar seesaw has bearings in the ends, squeezing the the plastic bits on the cage enough to rid the slop won't hurt a thing, just be sure the flybar itself is of equal length on each side.

mikeg01 · 12-25-2008, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardJG

Hello,
Thanks for tips, it looks like the metal parts of the frame are too long, so I think I will be using distance pieces to take up the clearance rather than squeezing the frame. Won't squeezing the frame put extra friction on the flybar movement? I think it will, so like I said, I will be using distance pieces.

Thanks & Regards
RichardG

Hi Richard , I too had this with my 450s by taking the flybar cage apart & reassembling it I got rid of the play. As most here have already said, a little pressure in the right spot helps.
Mike.
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYBODY.

RichardJG · 12-26-2008, 05:02 AM

Thanks Mike and All,
I have it sussed now, I took it apart and tweaked this and that and now it's fine.
Just wondering why it was like that in the first place, supposed to be ARF, didn't think I would have to take it apart to correct factory assembly. Oh well, such is life!

Thanks for your help.
I'll be back!

Regards and Happy New Year!
RichardG

12-24-2008, 05:05 AM	#1 (permalink)
RichardJG Registered Users Join Date: Dec 2008	flybar slop Hello all, My first post about my second serious electric helli. Just bought a Trex 450S ARF and am progressing steadily with the rest of the build. Everything is going well at the moment. But, just one thing that concerns me and is to do with the flybar frame. (which I didn't assemble). It has some lateral movement, about 1.5mm, it looks as though it is assembled correctly, but looks as though it could do with a couple of washers to take up the slop. Can anyone confirm that there should this amount of clearance. Comments please. Thanks! Merry Christmas RichardG

12-24-2008, 07:24 AM	#2 (permalink)
TomRex Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: May 2006	If it the plastic flybar cage then squeeze the sides in and tighten the screws. __________________ How much past 200 mph do I need to go you ask?

12-24-2008, 08:27 AM	#3 (permalink)
entropysbed Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2008	This is normal on the 450S/SA and seems to be a plastic issue - not like this on the V2 head - as was said, squeeze them together when tightening and all is well. entropy __________________ Bird #1 : T-Rex 500CF / Hitec HS82MGs / JR7703D + JR3500G Bird #2 : Logo 600SE / Align DS620s / JR770 + DS620 / Scorpion 4035-560 / CC120HV ICE 10s Bird #3 : T-Rex 450 Pro / Align DS410Ms / VBAR Mini / Align DS520 Radio : Spektrum DX7

12-25-2008, 01:15 AM	#5 (permalink)
helijack Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2007	It is permisable to use a small washer to take up the slack in the flybar cage. Look in your parts bag for it. It's there.......it's a very small one.......very thin. Use two if necessary. __________________ T-Rex 450 SE V1, HS65MG, 9650, 325 CF, AR6100, 2200 FlightMax, 430XL/BL35X, GY401 ...SOLD T-Rex 500ESP...SOLD DX7...Still for sale M.A.A.C. 78596 www.helicalgary.com Ex President - Calgary RC Heli Club

12-25-2008, 03:56 PM	#7 (permalink)
TomRex Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: May 2006	I believe the flybar seesaw has bearings in the ends, squeezing the the plastic bits on the cage enough to rid the slop won't hurt a thing, just be sure the flybar itself is of equal length on each side. __________________ How much past 200 mph do I need to go you ask? Last edited by TomRex; 12-26-2008 at 07:22 AM..

12-24-2008, 10:26 PM	#4 (permalink)
-Gamah My HF Map location Join Date: Nov 2008	I have this too... I've squeezed and tightened to the point where I'm afraid of stripping/breaking something, and I still have some slop. This is a 450S with plastic head parts... what to do if it just won't close the gap?

12-25-2008, 06:01 AM	#6 (permalink)
RichardJG Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Dec 2008	Hello, Thanks for tips, it looks like the metal parts of the frame are too long, so I think I will be using distance pieces to take up the clearance rather than squeezing the frame. Won't squeezing the frame put extra friction on the flybar movement? I think it will, so like I said, I will be using distance pieces. Thanks & Regards RichardG

12-26-2008, 05:02 AM	#9 (permalink)
RichardJG Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Dec 2008	Thanks Mike and All, I have it sussed now, I took it apart and tweaked this and that and now it's fine. Just wondering why it was like that in the first place, supposed to be ARF, didn't think I would have to take it apart to correct factory assembly. Oh well, such is life! Thanks for your help. I'll be back! Regards and Happy New Year! RichardG

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