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Painting and Airbrushing Tips / Techniques Painting and Airbrushing Tips / Techniques


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Old 02-10-2010, 06:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Well, I had a little crash...so it looks like I'll be painting another canopy soon. I'm going to try for the same color scheme/design.....but I'm going to try to make it a little nicer this time....maybe with some more affects. I'll take my time with this one
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
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thats probably it after waiting three days i procced to apply an HEAVY CLEAR COAT with awfull results ,just like an paint remover does,i"ll try again with an light mist like you recomend (hope doesn"t run the paint again)
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:08 PM   #23 (permalink)
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That looks super
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:36 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Ed, Your canopy looks super. The question I have is how well does the paint hold up to flexing of the canpy as well as fuel mist. Any crazing or cracking? Is the finish coat fuel proof?
I am about to paint a Protos canopy and will try to duplicate your paint procedure.

Thanks for the great article.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:45 AM   #25 (permalink)
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What strength of 3M rubbing compound did you use? Every time I search it it comes up with descriptions like aggressive cutting action? I dont want to do all the work then rub the whole thing clean because I used the wrong one.

Fantastic job btw hope mine looks as good as that!!
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. After a month or so, the paint is holding up great. It flexes a bit every time I take the canopy off, but no cracking issues. I did have an issue where a drop of gas had dripped to the bottom of the canopy and sat for a week. just in front of the gear. Where that drip was, the paint sofftened up and the clear came off when I cleaned it up, but the yellow is still intact underneath. No issues with mist- The gasser runs pretty clean.
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:17 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beadle44 View Post
What strength of 3M rubbing compound did you use? Every time I search it it comes up with descriptions like aggressive cutting action? I dont want to do all the work then rub the whole thing clean because I used the wrong one.

Fantastic job btw hope mine looks as good as that!!

I'll have to run down and grab the bottle. I can tell you that I got it at Wal Mart in the automotive section... It was the only kind they had!
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Old 09-22-2010, 01:05 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I want to throw my 2 pennies in,
Before i got into heli's i started painting motorcycle helmets(long story) I've been painting with a can for a long time..
EDinCT has it right... prime , paint , sand , rubbing compound, glaze, wax.
the KEY is DRY TIME.. if you're doing multi colors , wait at least a week . i know it seems a long time but if you read the cans it will tell you re coat times. if you follow you wont have probs. Note the red canopy , the "cracks" are from hittin it with clear 2 days to soon
If you're lucky you can sand out the cracks and re clear it but with the paint pattern i did , i didnt want to chance sanding paint off.

also VHT makes a chem/gas resistant paint and clear. I've used it on my motorcycle frame . again .. cure time is a MUST!
A top shelf glaze and wax will work to a point to save the paint from chem/gas spills.
i get most of my stuff at auto parts store..
P.S Rustoleum makes a "DAYGLOW NEON" spray that works well ( over a same color base coat)

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Old 09-22-2010, 01:57 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Thanks, hopefully with this knowledge my next canopy will look good.

Do these canopies require all the steps in the beginning? they don't have any seams or anything.

http://www.helidirect.com/fusuno-unp...5p-p-19196.hdx

STICKY??!!
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:52 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Default whats 3M Glazing Compund?

I looked over in Home Depot this morning and couldn't find it. Looks like it has a picture of a car on the package; is it automotive stuff?
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:01 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Your paddles are on backwards

-Farrell
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:08 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I looked over in Home Depot this morning and couldn't find it. Looks like it has a picture of a car on the package; is it automotive stuff?
Yes, its automotive, check Pep Boys, or Auto Zone.
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:09 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Thanks, hopefully with this knowledge my next canopy will look good.

Do these canopies require all the steps in the beginning? they don't have any seams or anything.

http://www.helidirect.com/fusuno-unp...5p-p-19196.hdx

STICKY??!!
Those are good high quality canopies, and are paint ready.
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:36 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Your paddles are on backwards

-Farrell

Thanx Farrell , I know .. I was tired one night putting it back together after a crash.. noticed when i tried to fly it , it was a bit " off" on the hover
Now I just like to see how many people notice


P.S. I use 3M rubbing compound then gliptone glaze and NU Finnish wax after final wet sanding with 2000 grit wet/dry auto sandpaper >> always WET sand

Here's my latest canopy , with the day glow yellow ,and green. no clear or buffing, just paint.
I have many more pics in my profile album
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:28 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Those are good high quality canopies, and are paint ready.
So do I start on step 4 or step 5?

Also, Sticky?
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:16 AM   #36 (permalink)
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So do I start on step 4 or step 5?

Also, Sticky?

I believe you should start at step 3 if you're NOT gonna do a putty job ( no seams )
wet sand it a bit with 400 grit to rough it up a bit so the paint/primer sticks . use a white base for light colors and a black or grey base for dark colors.
if the canopy is already one solid color you can skip the base coat if you want.
It's all about" trial and error.. practice makes perfect"
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:44 AM   #37 (permalink)
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You will want to wet sand as he said, then with the fusuno, you will want to spray a light base color to recover the factory putty and other crap that shows with a light sanding. Makes top coating take less coats when using colors

It is the align brand cano that don't need anything but paint, they come looking like a white chalk board and rarely seen putty on them. I have had 2 450 pro align brand canos sent to me from customers, they had to call there favorite shop to get them. HD has that fusuno which i personally like better that is posted above

Rattle cans are fine to use, have clear coated several for people. But, it takes patience to clear, and i prefer to plan 2 rounds of clear coating. I put it on slow and a little orange peel isn't the end of the world, then i color sand and re clear. By then it is pretty hard to get the rattle can paint to wrinkle with thick wet coats of 2k
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:58 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SQRT(-2) View Post
So do I start on step 4 or step 5?

Also, Sticky?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinbattista View Post
I believe you should start at step 3 if you're NOT gonna do a putty job ( no seams )
wet sand it a bit with 400 grit to rough it up a bit so the paint/primer sticks . use a white base for light colors and a black or grey base for dark colors.
if the canopy is already one solid color you can skip the base coat if you want.
It's all about" trial and error.. practice makes perfect"
Sounds good. The finish on the blank is nice and smooth, you only need to lightly wet sand and go.
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:01 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Nicely done and thanks for sharing the results. Question, can you clear coat over pinstripe?
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:00 PM   #40 (permalink)
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the compound.. found at auto stores and Walmart
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