CC Edge Lite 50 (it gets WAY too hot)

[UncleSam]

I'm using a CC edge Lite 50 for a Forza 450. The ESC is under the battery tray like a lot of 450 sized birds. Little hole in the canopy so it can breath a little bit.
The stock 3S motor is 3500kv. Running set rpms. This flies to my liking at 2800 rpms, but gets up to 210 +/- degrees by the end of that flight! It's only 72% output though. It wants (according to Mr MEls HS calculator it wants like, 3700-3900 rpms.) Not comfy w/ that high rpm disc. There are no pinions for this Forza either. 15tooth is it. Would mounting it outside the canopy benefit enough to keep it away from that high rpm I think it wants? I even went so much as to installing a tiny 12v fan blowing on it...too bad the fan isnt 6volts cause it can only get plugged into a servo plug.

Should I play w/ PWM or timing settings? Last flight I was just sport flying it at the 2800rpms for a bit. In the end of the flight I clicked the IU switch into 3600 rpms and did a couple pitch climb outs. Had a beeping tone when it landed and I could tell power got reduced a couple times (only slightly.) Long beep then a short beep. (Over-current) I have it set to insensitive also.
I only know Castle ESCs, and frankly if I cant fly w/ one then I dont want to fly! They've been there since I started in this hobby and the products produced are fantastic!!!! Every motor/esc manufacturer has had their "issues" so I don't wana hear this and that about CC.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

[RC Mike]

I recommend using only standard ESCs with a heatsink for helicopters. You just can't get enough airflow to cool the lite ESC's, even with a fan.
　
Set the governor so that the Motor Power Out is always 80% or higher when hovering. If you want less headspeed change the gearing.
　
Lower timing may make the motor and ESC run cooler.
　
Lower PWM will make the ESC run cooler.
　
Your goal is to get the temperature to stay below 200F on a hot day. If the data log temp never gets over 200F hovering on a hot day you have a good setup. Hovering makes the ESC hotter because of less airflow. Fast forward flight will be the coolest.
　
　
.

[UncleSam]

Originally Posted by RC Mike

I recommend using only standard ESCs with a heatsink for helicopters. You just can't get enough airflow to cool the lite ESC's, even with a fan.
　
Set the governor so that the Motor Power Out is always 80% or higher when hovering. If you want less headspeed change the gearing.
　
Lower timing may make the motor and ESC run cooler.
　
Lower PWM will make the ESC run cooler.
　
Your goal is to get the temperature to stay below 200F on a hot day. If the data log temp never gets over 200F hovering on a hot day you have a good setup. Hovering makes the ESC hotter because of less airflow. Fast forward flight will be the coolest.
　
　
.

I understand what you're saying. Like I said above, I can't change gearing as JR doesn't offer any other pinions. I'm stuck w/ a 15 tooth pinion.

The ESC is mounted under the battery tray, and then under a canopy right next to the motor. I've seen plenty of helis w/ a lite version of the ESC flying w/o issue. Average temps were 160*F according to my log. Peaked out at 220*F. It was only a brief moment (like maybe 20 +/- seconds according to the log.

SOO, being Ive been thinking what to do w/o spending even more $$$, ive decided to put it on the outside of the canopy and see how it does temp wise.
I'm running set-rpms like I mentioned above. The gain (I thought) was good where it was (at 30.) Nothing was chattering or blowing out, etc. But the upped gov gain may have contributed to the over current.

Not cheapo batteries either. Got Thunderpower G8 70C, 140C peak. Pack is always just a little bit warm. ESC is so hidden and tucked in there that I can't even touch it. Motor is too hot to touch. And yea, this is all on a 90*+ day. As is today too. See what happens.


Thanks dude for the helpful info!

[Gyropilot]

I'm not familiar with that heli, but is there any chance of further modifying the canopy to get more airflow to the ESC?

[UncleSam]

Originally Posted by Gyropilot

I'm not familiar with that heli, but is there any chance of further modifying the canopy to get more airflow to the ESC?

Mmm... Maybe, but I'm just going to try putting it on the frame side, facing outwards. At LEAST rotor downwash will produce some type of airflow over it. I'll know in the castle log for sure...and it's 90*f +/- outside.
Gona grab a bite, finish re-locating it and fly. See how it goes. Just literally received my Mikado NEO like 5 mins ago to distract me however... (That's going into my goblin 700.)

[RC Mike]

The simple fix is to just set the governor so that it hovers at 85% throttle. That will probably solve your problem.
　
If it still overheats they the only choice is a Bigger ESC with a big heatsink. Don’t whine just do it!
　
.

[flint723]

Actually there is a 14t pinion for the forza, that would be the ideal solution.

http://www.helidirect.com/jr-pinion-...ly-fz-450.html

[UncleSam]

Originally Posted by flint723

Actually there is a 14t pinion for the forza, that would be the ideal solution.

http://www.helidirect.com/jr-pinion-...ly-fz-450.html

Ordered! Thanks dude-ski! Didn't think there were any! Wish there was a 13 tooth, but this will work!

[LaDon]

We are flying the same setup on ours. The lite is fine. I guess I am not to sure what our pinion is but I am sure it is whatever comes with it. Sorry I don't know more but the 450 is a just go out and beat on it Heli. I do know we are running a higher head speed. Prolly around the 3400 range. Also ours is mounted on the side of the frame so that might help. I have never downloaded a lot to see what it says but if you are averaging 160 with a 210 peak I wouldn't worry about it. Especially on a hot day when it is in the 90's. I would at least move it tho to a spot where it can get a little air over it. That may make a huge difference along with the pinion. I don't worry about ours till it starts stinking

[UncleSam]

Originally Posted by LaDon

We are flying the same setup on ours. The lite is fine. I guess I am not to sure what our pinion is but I am sure it is whatever comes with it. Sorry I don't know more but the 450 is a just go out and beat on it Heli. I do know we are running a higher head speed. Prolly around the 3400 range. Also ours is mounted on the side of the frame so that might help. I have never downloaded a lot to see what it says but if you are averaging 160 with a 210 peak I wouldn't worry about it. Especially on a hot day when it is in the 90's. I would at least move it tho to a spot where it can get a little air over it. That may make a huge difference along with the pinion. I don't worry about ours till it starts stinking

Oh yea I got it as a practice new stuff heli really. I just am not comfortable w/ high head speeds the 15 tooth should be seeing. 14 tooth should make it more to my liking. I put it as 2 day priority mail. Gona mount the esc on the outside shortly. It's pretty stuffed in there w/o much air-flow at all especially when the canopy is on despite the vent hole on the bottom. I mean, it's sort of like an align 450 as far as esc spot, battery location, motor location. Just has a OWB in the pinion. It's cheap cost parts but makes for a less stressful heli to learn new stuff on.

[flint723]

Originally Posted by UncleSam

Ordered! Thanks dude-ski! Didn't think there were any! Wish there was a 13 tooth, but this will work!

No problem. Yes a 13t would be better if they made one.

An even better solution would be to go 6s. Just not with the JR motor or you run in to the same problem (overgeared for lower head speeds).

[bdfox1]

Or change the motor to a lower KV motor. There are a ton of motors with lower KV and you can usually find one that gives you higher efficiency while keeping your rotor speed where you want it.

On my little scaler (kind of, but not, an Align clone mechanics) I am using a 3000 KV Scorpion with 14/150 gears and spinning a 3 blade head at about 2550 RPM. The efficiency is right around 90% and it gets up to around 60C with out door temps around 26. Just hovering with some very mild side passes going on. Not really any airflow generated. Not an Edge Lite though, a full fledged one.Those temps are 140 F and close to 80 F.

If you can't get the gearing right then change something because it is not going to just get better.

-Barry

[UncleSam]

Originally Posted by bdfox1

Or change the motor to a lower KV motor. There are a ton of motors with lower KV and you can usually find one that gives you higher efficiency while keeping your rotor speed where you want it.

On my little scaler (kind of, but not, an Align clone mechanics) I am using a 3000 KV Scorpion with 14/150 gears and spinning a 3 blade head at about 2550 RPM. The efficiency is right around 90% and it gets up to around 60C with out door temps around 26. Just hovering with some very mild side passes going on. Not really any airflow generated. Not an Edge Lite though, a full fledged one.Those temps are 140 F and close to 80 F.

If you can't get the gearing right then change something because it is not going to just get better.

-Barry

Trying not to dump any more $$ into this as it's a 'try new stuff out on' heli. No trophy rc over here! I just got the 14 tooth today. I'll give it a whirl (pun intended) and see what I get. A esc w/ a heat sync will just be adding weight. I still havent mounted or flown it w/ the 14T pinion yet as I literally just opened the package now. I do plan on mounting the ESC on the outside.
And FWIW to all the anti-lite ppl, Castle wouldve not put helicopter settings in there if it wasn't up for the task. The ESC being literally covered from every angle when the canopy is on can not radiate the heat off if it's being hugged by all sides. I will absolutely get better airflow running it on the frame side no doubt. Hey, if I have the same issue then foot in mouth.

Which motor for a 450 class heli does everyone recommend? (Just so I get an idea. The more $$$$$ I put into this, the less I'll be willing to "try new moves.")
Also, the pinion and OWB are all in the pinion (like a Protos.) The motor shaft is longer than many stock motors as well due to the OWB being in there.

Thanks again guys

[Pygmaeus]

As mentioned above, The easiest solution is to run a higher RPM on the motor. Running at a higher speed is easier on the ESC and will produce lease heat. I have a hopped up rifle 1m pulling 130 amps on 3s. I kept seeing close to 200 degrees after every flight. I was advised not to run partial throttle as it produce much more heat in the ESC. I now run full on or off and have never seen the temps pass 175. It is an easy fix worth a try.