frame flex, motor touching servos

[mike d1]

I like the sound of your gearing combo. I too am not looking for breakneck headspeed. I've been running a 12t pinion with the stock 112t main and have been happy with it other then haveing to shim the servo out some to create clearance, but my headspeed in IU 1 has been about perfect for what I want out of it. I think when I do finally put it in the dirt and screw up the main gear I'm going to try the 118 with a 12.

Mike

[338federal]

Here a beginner video. Here i have 1800 head-speed. 690mm radix in main and 105 edge on tail. m0,6 tail and 118/12 on main. Maybe some day a 700 motor by scorpion. Or a 800 stock with plenty of power.
[ame]http://youtu.be/GErPUWP5Oto[/ame]

[CZorzella]

Originally Posted by 338federal

Here a beginner video. Here i have 1800 head-speed. 690mm radix in main and 105 edge on tail. m0,6 tail and 118/12 on main. Maybe some day a 700 motor by scorpion. Or a 800 stock with plenty of power.
http://youtu.be/GErPUWP5Oto

Very nice video!

[satgod]

if you run a gov you really want your highest headspeed to be at about 93-95% throttle
this gives you enough extra for gov control and is more efficient than running it at 50-60%

[Atomic Skull]

Originally Posted by jagalactic

The other thing I see in the "performance upgrade" package is the new-design feathering shaft where the thrust bearings are inside the radial bearings. That puzzled me when I built my 700 Pro V3, but I'm now convinced it's a superior design. However, I don't see how it's relevant to any of my issues with the 600, so I'm going to use my spare feathering shafts before I make the conversion.

I never liked that configuration because in order for it to work the outer radial bearing has to float which means there needs to be extremely precise tolerance between the bearing and the housing to minimize axial play in the feathering shaft. And I don't trust Align to not half ass it and add too much space between the bearing and housing because they don't want to have to throw out a lot of grips that come out under tolerance.

Done right it's a superior design but the problem is that the level of precision needed to do it right doesn't come cheap.

[338federal]

Originally Posted by satgod

if you run a gov you really want your highest headspeed to be at about 93-95% throttle
this gives you enough extra for gov control and is more efficient than running it at 50-60%

Kontronik wants maximum throttle and headspeed at 80%. With 625 radix i have 60-80%. I have tested with 32% and it flies really nice and the headspeed was 1600.

[bj660raptor]

does the performance booster package with the frame stiffeners solve the frame flex?

[bj660raptor]

anyone rockin the "shapely" frame stiffeners yet and do the help?

[jagalactic]

So... the "performance booster" kit includes the red brackets that create a rigid connection between the motor mount and the pinion support. But it also provides a larger main gear AND a larger pinion, which moves the motor farther from the servos (to reduce the chance of motor rubbing servos during flex). This requires a different motor mount, although the net change to the gear ratio is almost nil. The gearing change does nothing for stiffness - it just adds clearance.

I bought the red stiffeners, but blew off the gearing change. In addition I got the RC Heli Solutions stiffeners which bridge between the front two swash servos. See post 9 in this thread: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...44#post5599944

Those are available here: http://rchelisolutions.com/product/t...frame-support/

I'm satisfied that my frame flex issues are fixed, although I'm still chasing some phantom squeaks in this heli. That may just be the nature of a heli after 500+ flights (and quite a few crashes)

[nabl74]

Not for me
Have the 600pro ( dominator) and found grooves in my left servo last night when inspecting servo gears for slop issues

[Heli.Maniac]

What I have done is add some braces on the plastic part where the servos mount so that it adds rigidity in that area and the frame can no longer flex and allow the servos to touch the motor. To do what I did you will need Plastic Hexagonal Bolt (part H60037) and 4 M3x16mm or so grub screws. What I did was I drilled the plastic part on both frames and added one of the hex bolts (with some modification with a dremel to fit inbetween) which I then kept in place with the long grub screws. I will post some pics of the mod so that you can better understand it. Also note that I did the same both over and under the servos but I think doing it only on the upper side will be enough.