Vector Head assembly

[malc1]

Has anyone else got a new Vector kit yet and had or is having trouble getting the head assembly correctly?

The four head dampers are so hard that you can not physically get the head axle through them when they are inserted in the head block.
Putting the dampers on first gives you the same problem - can't get the assembly in the head block.

As recommended by RJX support I assembled everything including the blade holders and did the M5 bolts up slowly to squeeze the dampers into the head.

The head axle and dampers go into position this way but the axle is so tight.You can tightened the M5 bolts without it even turning.
When the blade holders are on and the M5 bolts tightened but not fully both blade holders bind and are not smooth.

This has been together several times now with the same results.

[RJX HOBBY]

Hello Malcolm,

put the dampeners for several minutes in hot water......

Best Regards
Frank

[malc1]

Hi Frank

Just replied to your email.

Tried this and it does not work for me.
I can not get the dampers to compress enough.

Malcolm

[malc1]

After hours of trying I've finally got the head together.

What ever I did I just could not stop the thrust bearings binding when the M5 bolts were tightened.

Solution - reduce each dampner to exactally 3.5mm thickness by sanding them flat on the bench on very fine wet n dry paper.
They are so hard it's just like sanding dampners made out of solid plastic.

This is the only way I could tighten the bolts up and have every thing running smoothly.

It also didn't help to have a notchy bearing prefitted to the blade grip from new.This has been replaced.

Lets hope the rest of the build goes better than this.

[TheKingPhisher]

Good to see you found a DIY fix...

Keep us future Vector owners up to date with your finds...

[Atomic Skull]

How much binding do you mean? RJX heads are very heavily preloaded and will have some drag in the grips when brand new. After 30-40 flights the bearings wear in and it'll loosen up.

[malc1]

Both sides very notchy when the blade grips are moved with every ball of the bearings felt.

[TheKingPhisher]

I just got my Vector kit so I'll see if it has the same issue.

[malc1]

Be interested to know.

[TheKingPhisher]

I have the same issue getting the spindle through the dampers. It's way too tight in my opinion. Is there a need for such a tight fitting damper? I think I'm going to enlarge the hole in the dampers or find similar sized ones that are softer.

[malc1]

Loads of grease to get the spindle to fit in the dampers but it will still be a tight fit and a time consuming job.
They are much to hard.
Much easier when the thickness is slightly reduced as well.

You wait until to come to get the canopy and body work to fit ...
I have spent hours fiddling around with it.
Doesn't help when all the holes in the underside are totally out of alignment with the cross members on the frame and the CF skids.
A missing magnet as well and have had two others come off already and have had to be re epoxied back in place.

No wonder its not finished yet.

[UH1H]

Here is what I did for the head dampers. I soaked them for one hour in hot power steering anti leak oil.

[IMG][/IMG]

Then hot bath..


Proceeded to install them on the spindle first and them using my small press and a socket pressed them onto the head. Worked great. Then installed the remaining parts. The result is a smooth operation of the main grip as it should.
This is a great main rotor head. I own a kasama Faifa and nobody dispute the superior quality of their parts. So far..this is as good. Head, swashplate and main shaft are very sturdy to say the least. I like that.

[IMG][/IMG]

[TheKingPhisher]

I'm gonna try the hot water method and see if that works. If not maybe brake fluid will work?

[malc1]

I tried the boiling water method when putting mine together - couldn't get it to work at all.

[UH1H]

I had no problem putting mine together with the oil treatment. Install damper on spindle first on one side and press the damper in the head fully with a small bushing. Repeat on the other side. Do not try to use the spindle grip holding screws to push the dampers in position. You risk damaging the trust bearings. I am impressed how smooth and thight this head is. I like it a lot.

The oil leak treatment work because its made to soften and expand rubber seal to stop leaks. It soften the damper just enough for them to fit on the spindle and head. Old motorcycle builder trick. Engine and transmission oil leak treatment will work too.