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Old 07-03-2013, 12:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New Beam600 parts :)

Hi

I saw this, and thought I would share it.

Seems to be some great upgrades.

Not that i had needed to change the old plastik parts that they will replace, but now i´m sure they never will break
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It's good to see new parts like that. The tail slider and lever is interesting and I like the canopies.

What would be cool is if someone would make a very clever belt tensioner into one of the button shaped fittings, something where the guide pulley is on a spring and where the tension is adjustable.

I now have the belt tension just right on mine, it has a very narrow 'sweet spot' where it's just enough not to flap around inside the boom but not too tight that it feels like a lot of drag.
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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It's good to see that Beam are developing the heli!

The belt tension is my only remaining small issue, as I'm always adjusting it. When it's at a tension that feels smooth, the belt will slap about in the boom on tic-tocs etc, but it feels too tight when you adjust it to stop the boom slap. Looking at the new metal belt guide, it seems to be a bigger diameter which will wrap it around the tail shaft gear better and move the belt away from the inside wall of the boom fractionally.

The 14T pinion will also be a nice addition for different motor options, or for those that want to run higher head speeds.

Does the tail slider look like it's got an articulated joint? I originally thought this would be a weak point of the heli, though the plastic original one has performed well. My only critisism is that the ball link sits too low, so it bends the control rod down. The metal slider definitely looks more sturdy.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Sv: New Beam600 parts :)

Yes its nice to see some new items for the beam.

The new tail arm/slider is like the one on my beam450se, and this works just perfect.


I haven't had any problems with belt tension/noise since i changed to the orange/yellow upgrade one.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trillian View Post
What would be cool is if someone would make a very clever belt tensioner into one of the button shaped fittings, something where the guide pulley is on a spring and where the tension is adjustable.

I now have the belt tension just right on mine, it has a very narrow 'sweet spot' where it's just enough not to flap around inside the boom but not too tight that it feels like a lot of drag.
Yes Trillian.
When I bought my Beam600, I thought the red anodized belt tensioners were adjustable.
The round button shape suggested it had a thread.

Right now I am in the process of converting from 6s to 12s. My 3Ah batteries I usually use on my 500
are fitted with XT60 connectors. Soldering is near impossible! The leads from the ICE2HV80 are much
thicker than the XT60 can handle. And adding the BEC leads is not helping. But I somehow got it done.
In the winter period I'll find another connector - maybe EC5? I used EC5 on the 6s packs and they are
a bit easier to solder. When I programmed the ESC last night I saw the spark is eroding the XT60 fast.

I'm really looking forward to see, how much power my Beam will have on 12s.

I'm contemplating selling my somewhat blinged-out Vbarred TRex500ESP, because the Beam flies so well :-)

And use the money for more batteries (I only have 4 3Ah batteries to share), blades and stronger undercarriage.

Cheers
Erik
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi Erik,

There are a few helicopters out there will belt tensioners, the Compass 7HV and I think the Diabolo. It might be possible for something similar to be adapted.

I'm using all EC5s on the bigger electrics and find them to be very easy to solder (and I generally hate soldering) and they're also easier to get apart because you have more area to grip them. My Trex 500 still has XT60s but I know it would make life easier if I convert to EC5s as well.
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I just had a 2 minute first 12s flight this evening.

With no worries at all. It was just that sometimes
the headspeed slowed down some for a few seconds
and then came back up. Maybe it's because the
motor runs with low RPM's? 1800 was the lowest governed
headspeed the ICE2HV80 would allow with my 630 kv motor.

I should have tried out the other headspeeds also.

But it's nice to pull up into a high stall turn with no RPM loss
and with cool batteries. I was killing the 5 Ah batteries using 6s.
Now I use 2 x 3 Ah new nanotech and they come down cool.

Unless you have super batteries, don't go 6s.

Cheers
Erik
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oy2503 View Post
I just had a 2 minute first 12s flight this evening.

With no worries at all. It was just that sometimes
the headspeed slowed down some for a few seconds
and then came back up. Maybe it's because the
motor runs with low RPM's? 1800 was the lowest governed
headspeed the ICE2HV80 would allow with my 630 kv motor.

I should have tried out the other headspeeds also.

But it's nice to pull up into a high stall turn with no RPM loss
and with cool batteries. I was killing the 5 Ah batteries using 6s.
Now I use 2 x 3 Ah new nanotech and they come down cool.

Unless you have super batteries, don't go 6s.

Cheers
Erik
I have heard that the Castle Ice governor has a hard time when it's running on the lower end of its ideal range. If you're running a 630 kv motor on 12s then you must be at quite low throttle settings.

I have a 12 tooth pinion and a 510kv motor and I was still able to get over 2200rpm headspeed very easily.
Now I have bumped my throttle settings down quite a bit as I didn't need so much headspeed. I am using a Kontronik Jive 80HV.

My first experience with electric power larger than the Trex 500 was an Outrage 550 that I ran on 6s using a Castle Ice 100LV and a Hacker motor. It worked OK but didn't have very much punch at all. I then moved those electrics over to a Fusion 50 and changed to a Scorpion 4025 motor and it felt like it had even less power. I spent a lot of time fiddling with ESC settings but it only got slightly better.

So I had decided to go 12s with the next one and I converted a Hirobo SDX using a Hobbywing 70HV and an Align 600mx motor. On my first flights I was truly amazed at the power! It was just an absolute rocket compared to anything I had before. So that inspired me to get the Beam. (And they both run perfectly on quite modest C-rated Lipos, I now have 25C Gens Ace, 30C blue Turnigy's and 35C rated Zippy Compacts and they all work great).
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trillian View Post
I have heard that the Castle Ice governor has a hard time when it's running on the lower end of its ideal range.
I've been trying the Beam at low head speed, but the governor of the Castle ESC I'm using is nothing like how the Kontronik ESC that I've got in my Faifa. I reckon I could get the Castle ESC to work at low head speed, though I would have to change it again for more lively flying. The main problem I was having at slow head speed is tail blow-out.

I'm tempted to put a Kontronik on the Beam, but I enjoy flying it more with high head speed. I've already got the Faifa, which floats around perfectly at what sometimes sounds like an impossibly slow speed. Though I like the auto-bailout of the Castle ESC, it gives a lot of confidence when trying new stuff!
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oy2503 View Post
It was just that sometimes
the headspeed slowed down some for a few seconds
and then came back up.
Hi again. I discovered I had forgotten to change the Throttle curve
back again from setting endpoints.
It was still a straight line from 0 to 100.

Cheers
Erik
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Those new parts are available at fast lad
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Sv: New Beam600 parts :)

Yes.

And also at www.hobbyfly.com
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysam View Post
Those new parts are available at fast lad
Yeah I noticed that recently. They have the new tail lever and the new canopies and a few other things. I was encouraged to see that.
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Old 05-08-2014, 03:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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After crashing the Beam last weekend, I restocked enough for another couple of good earth faults! I also decided to fit the new tail slider and tail control arm. I've not flown it yet, but it feels much more accurate and removes any unnecessary movement. I've had the bigger belt guide for a while and that's been great. You don't have to run the belt as tight to stop it rattling on the inside of the boom.

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Old 05-08-2014, 05:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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That tail looks neat.
So comparing this slider design and a dual support, not much difference regarding to slop.
This beam design looks simpler, lighter and cheaper to repair if damage occur.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:25 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Belt guides

I suppose you only need to change one of the belt guides? It's a very inexpensive way to cure the issue.

I haven't noticed any belt noise since I switched to the Ely.Q belt.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trillian View Post
I suppose you only need to change one of the belt guides? It's a very inexpensive way to cure the issue.

I haven't noticed any belt noise since I switched to the Ely.Q belt.
Yes only the top belt guide is needed to be changed.


Btw. Yes the new arm is really great.
I'm close to 100 flights on mine, and still no slop.

Last edited by RasmusDK; 05-13-2014 at 10:59 PM..
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thought I'd also develop some new ideas myself!

To get CoG just about perfect with one 5000 OptiPower pack, I've put some of the longer canopy posts behind the battery plate and also hidden the Jive behind it... I think I might have gone a bit too tidy



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Old 05-09-2014, 02:47 AM   #19 (permalink)
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great idea,and it looks good. but what about heat
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:04 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The Jive only gets slightly warm at the most... it's only like being tucked under the battery tray and inside the cano of a goblin. Plus it's open to where the motor is pulling air through. I can always go back to the side if it's an issue.
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