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03-07-2010, 06:33 AM | #101 (permalink) | |
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Ian |
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03-07-2010, 10:24 AM | #102 (permalink) | |
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Good info!
Thanks Night!
You have me running off in a new direction now. In my in searching around for LED setups, I found an LED replacement anchor light for the boat. One of the issues at anchor is trying to keep the batteries up, I even have a solar panel but still over time batteries run down. The LED one uses 2/10 of an amp vs 1.5 amps Mel Quote:
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When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic. ~Benjamin Franklin ~ |
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03-07-2010, 09:28 PM | #103 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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OK....quick question about using autotrim. I set up my heli and put my swash leveling tool on the main shaft. I gave the collective 50 percent input. The servo arms were close to 90 degrees with the aileron a bit lower than the other 2 servos. I gave 100 percent stick input and the swash went up level except the slight dip towards aileron. I gave full negative and the swash stayed level except for the dip in the aileron side.
I decided to simulate a hover on my kitchen table by putting in a bit of input to the aileron to keep the swash level. After 8 seconds I hit the auto trim. The swash now is level at 50, 0 and 100 percent stick input. I have 0 degree pitch at 50% and -10 on zero and +10 at 100 percent All the swash movements are correct, the swash responds correctly in horizontal mode I wil be using the internal gyro with gain at 21 percent in heading hold mode only. All my servos look good on the PC tabs What happens if my heli is a bit tail heavy? Im guessing I still have to hover for 8 sec and autotrrim again correct? I think I may be ready again Now if it will stop raining |
03-07-2010, 11:34 PM | #104 (permalink) |
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Hey Splitboarder,
What I found was that level on the workbench wasn't necessarily what would be level for level hover. Messing around on the workbench I have reset auto trim and had to re-trim when hovering. I too thought "Why not just auto trim when it's "level" on the work bench" HC needs to see averages of stick movements over 8 seconds to know what average is. Careful after a bench reset as HC will add to or subract from Your stick inputs, it can be handful at first as we compete with each other, so you may have to do a quick trim and then a more refined trim. I'm finding now at the field I'm fusing with auto trim if I see a tendency for the bird to want to drift in one direction. Training gear was a must! I think your good for another go at it! The folks who mentored us can add a more in depth explanation My gyro gain for the tail is happy at 8 any more than that and heli had the tail jitters. But for now, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it Mel
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When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic. ~Benjamin Franklin ~ Last edited by Navigator53; 03-08-2010 at 09:44 AM.. |
03-08-2010, 01:54 AM | #105 (permalink) | |
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Personally I found that leaving the values set from the bench test, when it is reasonablly level, will prevent the sudden initial correction when you use AT the first time you fly. Gyro gain sounds about right at 21%. If your heli is slightly tail heavy, HC will correct for this. to a certain extent. If you find it drifts in any one direction, constantly, then you can adjust the sensor position by tilting it. Get into the habit of AT every time you take off and do it a couple of times to fine tune. Ian |
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04-14-2010, 04:33 PM | #106 (permalink) |
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Decent AP of building
Wind was a little too gusty but since it wasn't letting up, I went for it anyway.
I really had to trust Helicommand because the heli was a spect in the sky. With the wind, I had to coax it back down, couldn't take my eyes off the bird, but it felt like my left stick was about 0 or sometimes minus a degree or 2. Looking at the bottom that far up, it's harder to tell if it's coming down or not Hey, I know it's ugly, but it's paid for
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When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic. ~Benjamin Franklin ~ |
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