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NextD - Rave 450 and 90 CJY Rave 450 and 90 Helicopter Kit - ND-YR-K001


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Old 02-23-2014, 12:00 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I took the bearings out and the aluminum sleeve. Tried just the plastic bushing in the boom and it is snug. Would it work just to grease the sleeve before I put it in the boom and not sand it ? Would it come out when you need it to ?
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:52 PM   #42 (permalink)
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It is recommended to sand the plastic insert so that it can be installed or removed without much fuss if needed.
I leave it all together and just sand as needed.
You should not have to remove much material.
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:28 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I sanded the plastic inserts. They are still snug. I will grease them when I put them in. Not sure if I should drill a hole right through the aluminum bushings at the first set of holes ? This way I may be able to get them out later on ?

Are the first holes in the plastic bushing used for anything ? Can I drill them through ?
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:34 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I put the guides on the the tail control rod and threaded the ends on. In the instructions it shows 628 mm between the links. I threaded the ball links on tight but they are at 718 mm in between the ball links. They are tight. Even if you could thread the ball links so there is no thread showing they would be 712 mm apart ? Do you have to shorten the rod and retread it some how ?
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:16 AM   #45 (permalink)
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You have the ENV pushrod. You can shorten it and it can be used for the Ballistic.
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:13 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heliguy3D View Post
You have the ENV pushrod. You can shorten it and it can be used for the Ballistic.
Thank you, I didn't think about having two lengths of tail control rods. I checked and I have a new Ballistic one as well.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:38 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Anyone know where to get a swash levelling tool ?
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Old 03-05-2014, 04:33 AM   #48 (permalink)
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this is the tool I have been using lately to setup my models, It works very good,

http://www.soko-heli-tools.com/

Check out their videos - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCg8...ONsxw-Si4HAA7w
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:07 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystar60 View Post
this is the tool I have been using lately to setup my models, It works very good,

http://www.soko-heli-tools.com/

Check out their videos - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCg8...ONsxw-Si4HAA7w
I have one just haven't used it yet. I will have to sit down and go through the instructions.

I used a swash levelling tool and a digital pitch gauge before.
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:32 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I used a new tail push rod for the Ballistic and it is 693 mm between the plastic ball links once they are tightened on. The manual says 628 mm ?
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:34 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystar60 View Post
this is the tool I have been using lately to setup my models, It works very good,

http://www.soko-heli-tools.com/

Check out their videos - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCg8...ONsxw-Si4HAA7w

I will try using the Soko tool. I watched the video and it looks very good. Thanks
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:04 AM   #52 (permalink)
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I built the tail case with the metal helical gears tonight. Awesome quality !! The metal gears are really smooth and look great. Everything went together so nice. Just have to ream the ball link out a little.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:41 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I finished the front part of the boom and attached the boom to the frame. It's starting to look like a Heli now. I didn't use any of the shims that are supplied in the front gear case. The mesh of the metal gears is good just a very small amount of play. Runs really smooth. I tried to ream out the ball link for the tail but it is still a little snug. I will do it again.
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Old 03-10-2014, 05:52 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Looking good I mean sounds good...;-)
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:54 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Thanks, I added the BLS251 tail servo tonight. Got the tail control rod working. I had to move the guides down further away from the servo otherwise the rod bends too much.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:01 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I was putting together the FBL links last night a broke two ball links. Had a hard time screwing them together to be 40 mm spacing between the plastic edges of the ball links. I put a screw driver but in each end to tightn them and they broke just before I had them at 40 mm. I put a new one together by hand but it was very tight. I tried threading the ball links first but they are too loose now. I will try and finish threading the other one together by hand tonight. I wish I could find Ti turnbuckles for the FBL links. You need to end up 40 mm between and the ones I found would be 43 mm.
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:27 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Finished building the links and getting them on the head. So I am starting to get excited now. It's looking really good. I am going to start glueing the canopy grommets in and see what the canopies look like. I need two more RC Booya pins for the second canopy.
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:10 PM   #58 (permalink)
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These are the same dimension as the ballistic FBL links. 2.5x61mm. Never used them, but they are available.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...et-4-T-Rex-550
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:48 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Haven't used them, but those are cut threads. May not be as reliable.
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Old 03-15-2014, 01:32 AM   #60 (permalink)
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The ones I found were 61mm as well but not enough thread to get the links close enough together. The manual call for 40 mm between the edge of the ball links. I used the HeliOption on my Protos and they worked great. I think I would have to buy them and a tap the thread a little further. I put the stock ones on for now. Who knows maybe I could switch them later.

I have a 2mm tap coming for the cyclic push rods. I will see if I can make them work. Maybe later.
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