Titan X50B new build w/ factory FBL conversion and MICROBEAST

[Bob O]

The new Telemetry sensor worked great as a RevLimiter sensor today. Only got two flights in.

I tried the MB in Tx mode again..........same result as last year, didn't like it. I prefer the "feel" of the Extreme preset with slightly increased rates. I'll put it back to the preset next time out and do some further tuning.

[WessCo]

Do you like how light the X50 flies? I love it compared to my old Raptor 50v2!

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by WessCo

Do you like how light the X50 flies? I love it compared to my old Raptor 50v2!

It is definitely light compared to the T-Rex 600N and Velocity 50 that I had before it.

[WessCo]

Got a 55HZ on the way for mine...since I obviously ran my Hyper 50 lean.......

[yannick]

Do you have a part number for the main gear shims???

[WessCo]

PV1340

[yannick]

Wow fast reply...Thanks for the info.

[johnbs8]

whats the dimensions on the shim? inner and outer diam and thickness. TY John

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by johnbs8

whats the dimensions on the shim? inner and outer diam and thickness. TY John

SPECS from Tower Hobbies:

Outer Diameter: 19mm (0.75")
Inner Diameter: 14.5mm (0.57")
Thickness: 0.5mm (0.02")

[see_e_oh]

Bob:

Using the 120* arms, how far out from the center hole are the balls on your cyclic servo arms to get BLUE at 6 degrees on the MB? Mine seem to require less than 10mm and that seems really close in to me.

Thanks.

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by see_e_oh

Bob:

Using the 120* arms, how far out from the center hole are the balls on your cyclic servo arms to get BLUE at 6 degrees on the MB? Mine seem to require less than 10mm and that seems really close in to me.

Thanks.

I'm at 10mm out using the 140* bell cranks and I don't get blue until 6.9 degrees. So currently I'm flying with the red LED.

I'm curious to know at what point you do see the blue LED. You must not be far off.

Nick Maxwell is running his at 7.5mm out using the 120* bell cranks. He's not using the MB though. So there's definitely room to go inward. I have servo wheels with holes at 9mm, and I will get around to installing those. I was hoping that would give me 6* and blue.

I'm using a Bevel Box for pitch measurements, so I know fairly precisely where and when the light changes for me. What method are you using?

Looking forward to hearing back from you.

[see_e_oh]

I'm going BLUE at about 6.7* using Align Digital Pitch Gauge. I'll play around tonight and report back.

Thanks for the quick response.

[see_e_oh]

OK, with the 120* bell cranks here is what I found:

1. Balls out at 10.5mm on cyclic servo arms -- LED goes BLUE at 6.9*

2. Balls out at 7.5mm on cyclic servo arms -- LED goes BLUE at 5.1*

I'm currently using the Futaba 5 standard star arm FUTM2010/FSH63. 1st hole is 7.5mm, 2nd hole is 10.5mm.

So if everything is linear, looks like setting balls out at 9.0mm would cause LED to go BLUE right at 6*

Certainly could fly like it is, but I may pick up some of the FUTABA Discs FUTM2000 and drill them out at 9.0mm. Those would be considerably more heavy duty than the star arms on the cyclic, I think.

[Bob O]

Sure sounds like 9mm spacing would do the trick for you.

Sent from my HTC Incredible

[Bladecpnitro]

Glad to see you got your X 50 going Bob. It'd be nice to see a vid of it one day. Hope its working well. I was reading through some of the stuff you've gone through with it leaning out and all. Looks like you found the problem though.

[Bob O]

My flying buddy and I were talking about this over lunch yesterday. We decided that we would take more video this year than we have in the past three combined.



No flying for me until the weekend though.

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by see_e_oh

OK, with the 120* bell cranks here is what I found:

1. Balls out at 10.5mm on cyclic servo arms -- LED goes BLUE at 6.9*

2. Balls out at 7.5mm on cyclic servo arms -- LED goes BLUE at 5.1*

SNIP

So if everything is linear, looks like setting balls out at 9.0mm would cause LED to go BLUE right at 6*
SNIP

I just swapped out the 140* setup for the 120* setup. Using your info, I set it up with 9mm ball spacing using Quick UK wheels.

I wish I had more time to complete the setup and do menu point "J", but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

I should be able to fly Saturday.

[see_e_oh]

Just finished updating setup 120* bellcranks to 9* out on balls;

Blue LED at 5.8*!!!

I set up for 12* +/- collective pitch (I'm a sport flyer). No binding on cyclic at full throws.

Hopefully will maiden this weekend!

[Bob O]

Sounds great see! 5.8 is better than 6.9 for sure! I should have mine done tomorrow, should end up with what you got or close depending upon pitch gauge used.



Sent from my phone

[Bob O]

Just finished a fresh setup and was unpleasantly surprised at the results. Unlike you, see_e_oh, my mechanics turned the LED on step "J" blue at 4.5 degrees.

Just to detail the changes, previously I didn't get blue until 6.9 degrees. That was using 10mm ball spacing with the 140* bell cranks. Now blue at 4.5 degrees using 9mm ball spacing with the 120* bell cranks. Keep in mind that the 120* bell cranks have wider spacing and therefore will provide more servo resolution.

Seems to me that going back to 10mm ball spacing would put me pretty close to 6* and blue.

I've worked on the heli a lot in the last two days, so I'm not going to bother with changing it before I fly tomorrow. I've flown two similarly-sized helis that had the blue LED precisely at 6*. And I've flown this heli with 6* and red. All have had good flight behavior. I'm going to consider this an opportunity to experience what the heli feels like with having an early blue LED.

I'll post back here with pics and a flight report tomorrow night.