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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 01-10-2016, 12:29 AM   #21 (permalink)
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and i dont really see a need for a bolt where the set screw goes
a simply hole will let that set screw have just as much hold if not more than the bolt at half the weight
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Old 01-16-2016, 11:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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my tail has no binding, maybe you installed thrust bearing backwards?

my tail has no binding whatsoever and my screws are tight, so im not sure what thats about
the thrust bearings are correctly installed and Ive had over 80 flights on the heli. On the set screw, I stopped using it after my set screw decided somehow to disappear inside the boom causing my torque tube and boom to back out and of course a crash. On my 700L align uses a bolt so I did the same and problem solved.

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Old 01-17-2016, 08:10 AM   #23 (permalink)
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with the setscrew , you must not drill bigger than a 7/64 hole for the set screw , and obviously blue loctight as well , any bigger of a hole and a set screw will back out (or in your case "backin" )
but thats just little things so i expect you already knew that.
im not sure again of your tail problem , but im guessing you torqed your screws in your tail to make it bind,
again , the assault isnt ment for people who dont really build, , you must know your way around a heli , and the do's and donts, hence the little manual ,

theres a fine line between , user build failures / errors
and the model as awhole build the way it was ment to be and so on and than see what fails ,

perfect example ,, your setscrew backed in , it was wrongfully drilled , and or locktighted and or not proper seating of the setscrew,,

my tsa has the same design with a setscrew,, never had it come out on me,

im not trying to start a bickering war,, this thread is ment to test the assault and how much it can really take before things fail (if they even do).

it is not ment for a (hey i f-ed up when i was building and my boom flew off cuz the screws didnt hold cuz i never tightend them,, but the assault sucks cuz it blew apart mid air on me type of thread.....

so lets stay on topic here , never heard of others saying there set screw came out , or there tail was binding do to over torqing the screws ,, infact ive seen an assult fly and when build to specs , its quite nice,, and i cant wait for spring to put that to the test ...
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:52 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Lol, my building skills are not in question, too much experience for that. I notice you take great offense when people post something about the assault 700. I was simply asking you because I have seen the same in rcgroups about the tail binding and you claim to not have that issue. Keep in mind you got your assault the other day, maybe your kit was the updated one, it has been modified a little since the first kit, which is the one I got. About the set screw, you are not supposed to need to drill the hole because it comes with it, and you are NOT supposed to use loctite on plastic, Im surprised a seasonsed builder like you doesnt know that. Here is my assault in flight, like I told you I am not bashing your wonderful product, I was simply asking you because if you tighten those tail slider screws all the way the slider binds, atleast on my model and Ive seen it before on rcgroups. You mentioned thrust bearings, I did not have the tail grips installed when putting the slider together, so thrust bearings are not the problem, and again, it has been flying.

Assault 700 (3 min 3 sec)
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Old 01-17-2016, 11:17 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Just so you can compare I took the bolt off the assault, which is the same that comes with my align 700L. I am able to screw it all the way in and know for sure Im secure. You dont have to do it but it cant hurt either.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:05 PM   #26 (permalink)
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my findings and your findings with the tail slider i guess are due to the updated one i have apposed to your gen1 .. that said,

i did have to drill my hole for the boom setscrew, there was none,
i did not have to glue the tt bearings because they were already glued in the boom from factory, so i guess theres alot of diffrences between ver1 and ver2

i never used loctight on plastic
i have a glue stick style one and after drilling the hole i took a toothpick and filled the newily drilled hole with a small amount , than inserted the boom into the frame and screwed in the setscrew all the way in than . .

i do however see reason for using a screw as opposed to a setscrew, guess the only real thing to worrie about is not goin in to much to hit the tt,,
i might just steal that idea and swap out the setscrew

i see in your video you like to flip alot
how does the assault do in full throttle hurricaines and funnels ?
how bout 4 point tic tocs? or how bout how does it handle overspeeds?
how does she auto? in spring i will put her up against a fight and see what she pulls back at me ,, just didnt know if you really beat on her yet , and what failed if anything
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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and to be clear , i wasnt sure about you tail binding , so thats why i asked about the thrust bearings,
and i guess i am quick to jump at the assaults bad comments because as said before , the reason i got this was cuz a friend has one and after seeing him fly his and not changing much if anything , i was sold,
theres alot of clone haters , and alot of times they just talk smack to stir the pot , so to put down any doubt as to weather or not this is a good value heli for the money , i did this thread,,
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Old 01-17-2016, 11:47 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Yeap on that video I was simply testing some governor settings and at that time I was learning to flip low and was doing a bunch. Funnels and hurricanes piro flips and autos fine. I even won an autorotation competition at my old flying clubs fun fly last year. Ive never tried 4 point tic tocs so I will have to report back on that one.

After about 60 flights I did have to work on the tail. This little silver part was opening up and creating slop, I guess the metal is not strong enough and it was giving way.
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Old 01-18-2016, 05:24 PM   #29 (permalink)
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im trying to figure this one out here, ,,
do you think its due to metal on metal contact that a washer maybe can fix?
i agree the metal is easy to chip , not as hard as other brands, so maybe washers could fix the wear? if not guess ill get an aglin replacement when mine wears out,,,,

i havent seen others report this, but that by no means , says it dont /aint happening,,
the metal is softer than most (still stronger than plastic tho) so i buy that . i think its more than possible that it wears and this is the result.

question for ya,, hows your owb holding up?
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Old 01-18-2016, 06:27 PM   #30 (permalink)
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that little hook part some how opens up and the little bearings come loose. I had another tail from a spare assault kit and replaced it and its been holding up. The one way is fine, however I had to use a sim because after replacing the stock main gear (and all the gears eventually) to Align gears, the top of the main gear was rubbing the frame. I noticed the one way bearing shaft on the new updated kit has a thicker lip, maybe you would not need it since you have the new updated kit.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:34 PM   #31 (permalink)
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if i may ask, ,, what servos are you running?
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:24 PM   #32 (permalink)
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rjx 0521 on swash and rjx 0521t on tail
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Old 01-20-2016, 06:52 PM   #33 (permalink)
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what electronics are you thinking of using?
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:25 PM   #34 (permalink)
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im not %100 on what servos ill be using yet,
i had a few in-mind but..........
i looked up your servos specs,, and there more than enough, even if put in an 800 sized heli
sooo ,,
i kinda liked the price of em , i just might buy them ,,

but as for the motor , id like to get an align 750mx motor (530kv),,,

and for the esc , i gotta go with one i know works , and thats hobbywing,
so a hw160 esc will be "in the mail" very shortly , for the assault ,,

im thinking of "kiss" and running a straight 2s lipo for the electrics .

id like to keep her a true 700, and running 700mm blades, but i think the 690's would yield better "3d" characteristics ? have you run both?
im sure anything over 700mm would "hurt " flight performance when it comes to "3d " flying?
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:08 PM   #35 (permalink)
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i run 690s on the assault, 700s on the 700L, I cant really feel much difference between the two. I tried 700 Zeal on the assault and went back to 690s.
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Old 02-13-2016, 08:12 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnj1985 View Post
my findings and your findings with the tail slider i guess are due to the updated one i have apposed to your gen1 .. that said,

i did have to drill my hole for the boom setscrew, there was none,
i did not have to glue the tt bearings because they were already glued in the boom from factory, so i guess theres alot of diffrences between ver1 and ver2

i never used loctight on plastic
i have a glue stick style one and after drilling the hole i took a toothpick and filled the newily drilled hole with a small amount , than inserted the boom into the frame and screwed in the setscrew all the way in than . .


i do however see reason for using a screw as opposed to a setscrew, guess the only real thing to worrie about is not goin in to much to hit the tt,,
i might just steal that idea and swap out the setscrew

i see in your video you like to flip alot
how does the assault do in full throttle hurricaines and funnels ?
how bout 4 point tic tocs? or how bout how does it handle overspeeds?
how does she auto? in spring i will put her up against a fight and see what she pulls back at me ,, just didnt know if you really beat on her yet , and what failed if anything
The bearings are not glued into the torque tube from HK they are simply pushed in! I lubed my boom and easily pushed them out with a dowel. I then glued them to the torque rod and pushed them in as per Align instructions. You have to glue them to the rod to prevent them from moving along the torque tube. If the move too far apart or equal distance from each other you will get really bad harmonics in the torque tube.
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Old 02-13-2016, 09:34 AM   #37 (permalink)
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i tryed like heck to remove them and cant
others have said theres came out as well..

regardless,, now im gonna have another go at it and see whats up, if anything ill just hit the rubber around the bearings with ca so they dont move and the tt shouldnt move because eaither way you look at iy , the tt can shift around in the boom
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Old 02-13-2016, 10:35 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
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i tryed like heck to remove them and cant
others have said theres came out as well..

regardless,, now im gonna have another go at it and see whats up, if anything ill just hit the rubber around the bearings with ca so they dont move and the tt shouldnt move because eaither way you look at iy , the tt can shift around in the boom

Don't force them or you'll damage the rubbers. Squirt some lube down the tube (extra thin traxxas silicon lube or equivalent so as not to soften or damage the rubber) and gently push them out. super glue the bearings to the rod (careful not to get ANY in the bearings I use accelerator to set it instantly to prevent this) don't set the bearings equal length apart or you can get bad harmonics and then lube the torque tube with the silicone and gently push them in. check check and double check that you haven't pulled the bearings out of the rubber.

If you already know all of the above just ignore it.
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Old 02-13-2016, 12:39 PM   #39 (permalink)
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yea , built quite a few tt helis , which is why i didnt understamd why the bearings werent glued to the tt .. ill have a go at it maybe tommarow,, im in no real rush tho as winter is still here in PA
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Old 06-11-2016, 01:26 PM   #40 (permalink)
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ready to go,, waiting on blades,(should be here Tuesday ,, first flights , next weekend ............................: cheers
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