Step by step guide to rewinding your 1100kv/1500W motor!

[Mikej]

Kailee,

Having been so impressed with your work I am very tempted to give this a try - I have 2 of the Gaui 850Kv motors (very similar to your 1100kV motor - just a bit shorter can). One has been on one of my 550s for 3 years doing sterling service - not the most efficient or cool running motor, but OK. I tried the other recently and it ran VERY hot - about 20 degrees C higher than the older one, I am keen to see if I can improve this - make it run cooler and longer whilst still giving similar power.

The winding is nowhere near as neat as yours, but there is a lot more of it - the wire is much thinner. Any suggestions on which wire I should use and how many turns per "arm" - oh and which wiring pattern.

Cheers,
Mike.

[Kailee]

Hi Mikej,

sorry for the delay!! I assumed this thread was now dead so didn't check back into it...

Anyway, the thing to do to determine how many turns you need is .... count! Almost all production motors are wound with multistrand wire, because it's so much more flexible it is cheaper to wind. These multistrands count as one wire/turn, so all you need to do is try to unwind the phase wires, luckily Gaui doesn't expoxy them in place so it should be a straight-forward unwind.
My winding were all fused together because of a small mishap I had with my motor, but yours look healthy so just remove any heatshrink, and start unwinding. When you count, count how many turns you have on the back of the stator, that's the clean end that doesn't have the phase wire coming out. Or, you can also count how many multistrand wires are in the slots, and divide by two. This is really the more accurate way to count because some motors have alternating numbers of turns on stator teeth (i.e. 6, then 7, then 6 again etc). So counting wires in slots and then dividing by 2 gives you the exact number, which may sometimes be a "half number" in case of unequal number of turns.

Then what you do is exactly line up some of the individual strands next to eachother (ideally 10), measure how wide this is, and divide by 10. You now have the individual strand diameter. Then plug that into http://www.powercroco.de/drahtrechner.html to find out what the total cross section of all the wire together per tooth was. You can then start calculating what wire you want. Ideally you want to cram as much copper into the slots as possible, my motor was pretty full with 1.18mm wire and 4 turns, but I was quite happy to increase the kv. If you want 5 turns (or even more) you'll have to use thinner wire, 4x1.18=4.72mm overall width of the wire in the slots, so if you want 5 turns you'll have to go with 4.72/5=0.94mm max wire width.

Hope this helps, and good luck!

Kailee.

[backwall]

I don't know what others think, but this is an excellent "how-to" and I really think Bob should make this a "Sticky". I'm just not sure how to make sure Finless sees this.

Dave

[torana74]

+1

[Kailee]

Thans guys i'm flattered.

I just wanted to pass on the information I had gathered (and used!) because it's the right thing to do. Also, rewinding is actually fun, and some other people might enjoy it also...

I have a question reg. this thread; I don't know if people know where to get the wire etc. I could post a link for a UK based supplier, but i'm not sure if this is allowed here because it might be considered spamming.. Bob?


K.

[Jerrymac]

Originally Posted by Kailee

Thans guys i'm flattered.

I just wanted to pass on the information I had gathered (and used!) because it's the right thing to do. Also, rewinding is actually fun, and some other people might enjoy it also...

I have a question reg. this thread; I don't know if people know where to get the wire etc. I could post a link for a UK based supplier, but i'm not sure if this is allowed here because it might be considered spamming.. Bob?


K.

You are permitted to post links to parts suppliers on here. After all, HeliFreak does not sell parts, so no conflict of interest there, as long as you are not the owner of the business, as that might be considered spamming.

[Kailee]

Thanks Jerrymac,

I was just going to mention

http://www.brocott.co.uk

they have wire in plenty different diameters and insulating papers. The wire they sell seems more flexible than wire I got from other places (Eloxal etc), and that makes it easier to bend/wind around the teeth.

Anyone know where to get Kapton tape in the UK or Germany?


Kailee.

[backburner1955]

This is a great step by step, Kailee, you did a great job. Have you wound motors before or is this your first shot at it?

Anyway, I have bookmarked this one for future reference.

If you want this one sticky'd, just PM Finless or another MOD and ask.

[backburner1955]

Originally Posted by Kailee

Thanks Jerrymac,

I was just going to mention

http://www.brocott.co.uk

they have wire in plenty different diameters and insulating papers. The wire they sell seems more flexible than wire I got from other places (Eloxal etc), and that makes it easier to bend/wind around the teeth.

Anyone know where to get Kapton tape in the UK or Germany?


Kailee.

USA-
http://www.kaptontape.com/

UK-
http://www.warton-metals.co.uk/kapton.html

[Dt.Serkan]

Thanks Kailee for all these valuable infos. I am a beginner in rewinding the motors. I have rewound a couple of motor. Some of them had a grinding sound and I couldn't solve this problem yet. Some other users said me it can be due to the insulation problem. I had had some teeny weeny scratches on the green thing but had covered it with the epoxy. When I read you thread I understood the importance of insulation once more again. Does all these precautions necessary and sine qua non for rewinding? Also how can I buy the "grp material" or is there any alternative of it?

I'll add a video of my rewound motor tonight. I have just finished it but I've faced with the same "sound" problem. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: My ESC has blowed suddenly when trying the motor. So I can't add the video. Sorry

[Berns]

Hi Kailee.

I have just started using HeliFreak, all thou i have registered a long time ago. i have a ? too ask you. i have followed your step by step rewind on the Gaui motor and i must say well done, it is all that you hope it would be.

Never the less, i have also got a Gaui motor that i rewound the same as what you did, thanks to your nice picks.

Here comes the but, my motor has 12poles like yours, but it has 20 magnets. When i looked at my other motor's windings it does not look like it is wound in star or delta.
i loosened the wires slightly to see how it is wound and it is very confusing,i think Gaui wound it like you said, some windings goes the one way and thee other goes the opposite way. But it is definitely not wired in star or delta.

Can you please give me your feedback.

[allyourcode]

Originally Posted by Kailee

Next, point the heatgun at the statorpacket (the round bit that has all the copper wire threaded though it), don your leather gloves and try to twist the stator off of the stator holder (the brownish golden anodized bit). It should come off with some force, but try to be gentle with it anyway, so you don't accidentally scratch the stator insulation (the green stuff). This is also why I use leather gloves rather than a hard metal clamp.

Thanks for posting your experience!

This step is driving me crazy. I don't have a heat gun, but I've tried heating other ways. Perhaps, those are inadequate. I guess my question is this: does heating usually work? Or does it vary significantly depending on what motor you're working with?

[blade_crasher]

On my Z-20 rewind from 2 years ago I ultimately used a lot of heat from a paint stripping type heat gun and channel lock pliers with towels to help protect the motor parts. It came off in the end.

In the end my motor was fried anyway so damaging it during the heating and twisting was not really going to change anything.

After the rewind it had been working great for over two years.

Best of luck.