Outrage BL9180

[rctazz]

I am finding that with the Outrage BL9180 Cyclic servos, Align servo wheels, and stock configuration of the servo rods (i.e. balls on inside of wheel), the ball links actually contact the servo housing and cause servo binding. Has anyone run into this problem and if so, how did you address it?

Thanks in advance

[TT]

I saw a post where some guys were using the servo mounting plates as spacers beneath the servo. This should make the rods parallel (or close) to the frames. You can buy more or make your own from some thin material. I'll be using 9180/9188 also.

[keither1984]

i have 9180s and have the same problem, putting a spacer helps a little but the way i had to fix it was put spacer under the servo wheel

[TT]

Aha! I didn't read the first post close enough. I'm hoping the Quick UK wheels I plan on using are the correct (or close) height to allow clearance.

[rctazz]

Originally Posted by keither1984

i have 9180s and have the same problem, putting a spacer helps a little but the way i had to fix it was put spacer under the servo wheel

What did you use as a spacer for the servo wheel? I tried a washer but when I tightened it down the washer itself would bind against the body. I was thinking of a spacer inside the splined area but haven't found anything with an OD small enough and ID large enough to fit the screw.

[keither1984]

yea that is where i put the spacer inside the splined area i think i might add one more to each side but kinda nervous having it spaced that far. by the way TT i am using the quick uk wheels and they were actullly about the same for this problem. did you guys have trouble getting the wheel on the splines mine were extremly tight i literlly had to beat them on and when i got the screw started i used it to press it on. as far as where to get the spacers i had some from my 1/8 scale buggy that i used but dont know where to purchase them if you want i could get the specs on the s[acer so you would know what to look for

[rctazz]

Originally Posted by keither1984

yea that is where i put the spacer inside the splined area i think i might add one more to each side but kinda nervous having it spaced that far. by the way TT i am using the quick uk wheels and they were actullly about the same for this problem. did you guys have trouble getting the wheel on the splines mine were extremly tight i literlly had to beat them on and when i got the screw started i used it to press it on. as far as where to get the spacers i had some from my 1/8 scale buggy that i used but dont know where to purchase them if you want i could get the specs on the s[acer so you would know what to look for

Thanks, that would be great.
I think I may be able to sand down some spacers that go between my 450 blade grips and hub. They almost fit but not quite so if I take a little material off, they should slip in and give me about 1 mm of shim.

The Align wheels fit on the shaft very easily. The wheels that came with the Outrage servos were very tight.

If the spacer doesn't work, I am going to try a double side arm instead of a wheel, if that doesn't work, I am going to try moving the servo balls out a small amount to get more throw. I know it is not per Align instructions regarding fbl geometry but I think it should still work.

[keither1984]

ok heres the specs and these fit like a glove. od- 5.19 mm , id- 3mm , thickness is .85mm as far as the od i would look for 5x3x.85. hope this helps

[rctazz]

Originally Posted by keither1984

ok heres the specs and these fit like a glove. od- 5.19 mm , id- 3mm , thickness is .85mm as far as the od i would look for 5x3x.85. hope this helps

Thanks, I'll look around.

[TT]

Would it be possible to just grind the head of the ball off slightly? We're only talking about 1mm or so...

[rctazz]

Originally Posted by TT

Would it be possible to just grind the head of the ball off slightly? We're only talking about 1mm or so...

It is actually the ball link that contacts the servo on mine. Some other things I have considered:

Changing to the 600 balls and links since they are just a bit smaller but I don't know if they will thread onto the 700 rods.

-OR-

Sanding a very small amount of material from the 700 links in conjunction with the spacers. (Concerned about weakening the links)

-OR-

Trying to mount the servos inside the frame and mount the balls to the outside of the wheel. (Not sure the servos will fit like this and this will not work for the elevator)


I am also going to Call/email Outrage and asking them if they know of a wheel with a longer base that stands off a bit more from the servo.

I searched online last night for wheels/arms with different stand off dimensions but had no success. I did find some car type servo arms that were open on both sides and clamp on to the servo splines so their standoff would be adjustable but couldn't find one that would work in this application.

[TT]

Originally Posted by rctazz

It is actually the ball link that contacts the servo on mine.

Jeez...yeah you said that originally. My head isn't on straight today.

McMaster has some metric nylon washers 5mm OD x 2.1mm ID x 0.67mm thick. These would be easy to drill out to accomodate the M3 screw.

Quick UK links are thinner than the stock links. Using them with the short Quick UK stand off balls might allow enough clearance. The ball center to the mounting face is 4mm.

[rctazz]

Originally Posted by TT

Jeez...yeah you said that originally. My head isn't on straight today.

McMaster has some metric nylon washers 5mm OD x 2.1mm ID x 0.67mm thick. These would be easy to drill out to accomodate the M3 screw.

Quick UK links are thinner than the stock links. Using them with the short Quick UK stand off balls might allow enough clearance. The ball center to the mounting face is 4mm.

Thanks for the information. I looked on Mcmaster Carr but couldn't find the right size. Obviouosly, I'll have to take another look. I'll check out the quick UK links and balls as well.

[keither1984]

well i was thinking of grinding some of that little flange off. but it is so small i went with the spacer idea. but yes that would work too

[TT]

OK, I got home and did some measuring:

Quick UK link OD at widest point: 4.74mm
Align link OD at widest point: 5.44mm

Quick UK ball shoulder to center: 4mm
Align ball shoulder to center: 3mm

Back of servo arm to outside of ball link (Quick UK): 6.37mm
Back of servo arm to outside of ball link (Align): 5.72mm

Looks like the Quick UKs would be a step in the wrong direction. Might have to order some spacers.

[keither1984]

duh TT i missed that too it would not work to sand it i remeber thinking about doing that to oh well have to have a brainfart every once in a while. well when i put frame spaccers in the back of the servo it made it more parallel so mine hits on that little flange where the out put shaft come out of the servo. so if you space the servo and the wheel you will only hit there which on my heli i have alot throw the way it is now

[rctazz]

I found two solutions that work.

1. Spacers from the Trex 450 Sport/Pro feathering shaft inserted into the Align servo wheel. This creates sufficient space so that the links do not contact the servo at all. Only thing I don't like is the 0.9mm loss of spline contact but it feels very solid. You have to sand a tiny bit of material from the outside of the spacers to make them slide into the servo wheel.

2. Dubro Super strength servo horns for Futaba servos. These are kind of expensive @ 11.99 for a pack and you need 2 packs. You have to drill out the largest double sided arms to the proper distance and then cut off the excess and sand. These servo horns have a longer standoff than the Align and QuickUK wheels. At least 1mm longer. This is probably the best solution if you don't mind not using wheels. The servo horns are super strong as the name implies.

[Gernejr]

Just a thought but what's stopping you from putting the ball on outside of the wheel ? I know the rodlinks will not be perfectly striaght back to the bellcrank arms but shouldn't be problem . Also from what i read here the Quk wheels are closer in which would help aligning the rodlinks striaghter.

[rctazz]

Originally Posted by Gernejr

Just a thought but what's stopping you from putting the ball on outside of the wheel ? I know the rodlinks will not be perfectly striaght back to the bellcrank arms but shouldn't be problem . Also from what i read here the Quk wheels are closer in which would help aligning the rodlinks striaghter.

Tried it, the ball links contacted the wheel even sooner than when they were on the outside.

The spacers I installed worked great. I have about 13 degrees cyclic now with +/- 13.5 degrees of pitch. Flip/roll rate in microBeast Extreme mode is still not fast enough but I know it's not the cyclic limiting me. I'll go to transmitter mode on the microBeast on the next trip to the field.

[klamp]

Originally Posted by rctazz

2. Dubro Super strength servo horns for Futaba servos. These are kind of expensive @ 11.99 for a pack and you need 2 packs. You have to drill out the largest double sided arms to the proper distance and then cut off the excess and sand. These servo horns have a longer standoff than the Align and QuickUK wheels. At least 1mm longer. This is probably the best solution if you don't mind not using wheels. The servo horns are super strong as the name implies.

Are these the ones?
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-Super-S.../dp/B0006N6URS