Blade roots too long.. any thing I can do ?

[Rahulgaba]

So, putting together my Vibe 50. after a crash due to a faulty gear install.

Anywaz.. all put together, I had some GF blades from HK. I love these blades, I have been using them on my other 50 size bird, and havent seen an issue. I am not a hardcore 3D pilot yet , and for the price you cant beat them..

anywaz....

I had another spare pair laying around, tried to fit those in as the last peice, and noticed that the screw holding the blades barely made all the way through the holes, and then noticed, that the blades wont fold or budge for that matter, even with no bol installed for tightening. The root is stuck on the feathering spindle screws. Wont even have room enough to center out in flight if the blades are off...something I can do? Is is good to somehow mod the root? or will be too dangerous??

OK if not... I am gonna be looking for a pair of 600's... I am going for CHEAP! like under 40 bucks a pair.. please suggest something that'll fit my RJX FBL head

thanks!

[Slyster]

Very typical. Many of us get that with the 3D Pro blades. Just look at where they hit and sand. It really doesn't take much at all until they will fold back.

[Volcano]

What I didnt like in the 3d blade was when I sanded them down there were voids in the carbon/fiberglass. That seems less than ideal, I never sanded down the root on a high quality blade to see if it was the same.
I just got 550 mm edge blades for 45 shipped from readyheli by sending in a pair of crashed 325's/ its a promotion they have. I flew with the cheapie fiberglass a month or 2 this season and they work fine- auto great. The edge makes a better sound.

[Rahulgaba]

Awesome That gives me Hope! Any special grit paper you suggest for sanding it nicely.. (noobie here)

and I am talking 3-4 mm may be.. is that ok ??

[Slyster]

Far less.. not even 1mm... you will be surprised how little it takes. Just any coarse sandpaper.. no need to worry about a nice finish

[Volcano]

I used my dremel drum sander, just keep cheking as you remove a tiny bit. Remember if youre just removing enough to fold the blade- thats as much root as the high end brands have anyways. Its just some brands have some extra down at the bottom.

Keep in mind, I did this for an outrage 550. Its up to you to determine if youre removing too much material.

[RCMike15]

Originally Posted by Slyster

Very typical. Many of us get that with the 3D Pro blades. Just look at where they hit and sand. It really doesn't take much at all until they will fold back.

Originally Posted by Slyster

Far less.. not even 1mm... you will be surprised how little it takes. Just any coarse sandpaper.. no need to worry about a nice finish

+1 ive had the same problem before very easy fix

[banditpowdercoat]

Every blade on my Protos is like that. Short grips. I bolt blades together and sand even. Then proceed with balancing. Never any issues

[Rahulgaba]

Good to know.. I'll sand tonite!!!

[sansone]

Originally Posted by Slyster

Very typical. Many of us get that with the 3D Pro blades. Just look at where they hit and sand. It really doesn't take much at all until they will fold back.

yes do this

[seanh]

I've had the same issue. On mine, I used a flat file as paper wasn't enough. You do need to be vary careful as they're crap blades that are full of voids. So, you may very well have a decent blade, sand through the good epoxy and have a nice non-filled section of blade.

I'd suggest buying a better quality set and not worry about it. Or, buy 4 or 5 sets and pick out the best set, use the rest as backup

[Rahulgaba]

I dremel sanded mine. Saw a little void but I rounded off the sanded area in a way that blades fold and have plenty room to move around!

Thanks a lot y'all! For helping me figure this out so I don't have to spend more money I don't have lol.

I do like these hk's as a back up. But I wanna know that running at 2000 rpm flat governed, what is the limit of maneuvers I should put on these blades?

I am at half piro flipping right now... When is the time to go carbons... Lol
Except for when I have the money. Lol

Are the carbon fibre blades by maverikk (40 buck ones) any good as an upgrade when needed? Lhs has some sets. Just wondering.

Thanks!

[seanh]

don't do anything other than sport flying, loops, rolls, stall turns etc. Anything like tic-tocs or high G maneuvers should be avoided. They very well may survive but with the voids I've seen, I'd avoid anything remotely close to 3D.

Look in the classifieds for used blades if the price of new is too much.

[Rahulgaba]

I put the blades together and bird is almost ready. For some reason my pitches were wayyyy off. No clue how. Anywaz..


The blade grips have had this one issue. One blade grip needs and has space for one washer with the blade. And the other blade grip NEEDS two washers (top and bottom) with the blades. One washer is .8gms. So I have 1.6gms extra one blade grip and 0.8 gems on the other. There is a difference of .8 . Is that good, bad or acceptable?

[seanh]

you can't run the blades like that...1 washer, 2 washer. Either use 1 or 2. This is probably why your pitch is off, as would tracking.

sand the blade on top and bottom equally at the root. Also, part of what you're experiencing could simply be inconsistencies between blade grip openings. I've got one(had) on my Raptor 90. One blade grip opening was about .5mm smaller. All I had to do was wedge the extra spacer in. I found that the opening for the blade was larger closer to the inside than it was on the outside. This helped start wedging in the blade and spacers.

You'd think that one grip would be tighter than the other but in reality there is no difference once you start tightening the blade bold

[Rahulgaba]

That is my problem.. The blade grip opening is .5mm smaller. I can barely shove the second one in. Do you think filing the blade root down a bit for that blade, balancing it, will work?

Got a trick to get the blades and washers ( that are tight) to align?

I will have to file both blades so cg doesn't screw up. This is getting complicated! Lol.

[WillJames]

Originally Posted by sv flyer

What I didnt like in the 3d blade was when I sanded them down there were voids in the carbon/fiberglass. That seems less than ideal, I never sanded down the root on a high quality blade to see if it was the same.
I just got 550 mm edge blades for 45 shipped from readyheli by sending in a pair of crashed 325's/ its a promotion they have. I flew with the cheapie fiberglass a month or 2 this season and they work fine- auto great. The edge makes a better sound.

If there voids in that side of the root I would avoid them like the plague. What is avoiding a civil action against you worth? How many 20 or less dollars more per set of blades would it take to make up for what you are risking by flying the HK blades?

[Rahulgaba]

well.. I know what you are talking about. The voids are more like little very litte air bubbles, not missing material per say. I donot hold it against you for telling me to stop flying the HK. YES they are cheap.. and YES they are what you pay for.. But its either that, or I dont fly at all.. what would you pick? I CANNOT afford a 80 dollar Radix or a 100 dollar Radix blade. I just cant. On top of that, when I know i might crash, and not like people here who crash after 200 or so flights.. once.. I know there is gonna be a crash within 20 flights.. thats two gallons of nitro... I am not gonna be putting in 80 dollars every 40 dollars of nitro.. plus 100 bucks in parts.... is 220... its 11 dollars a flight. lol.

I mean I would LOVE to fly the FBL maverikks or the Radix, you are right, they are awesome, they are safe, they are what you pay for them... ! but looking at my flying right now, I gotta be careful how much i spend. when I am good at a bird, and confident, I soop it up..

my mcpx not has all the necessary upgrades, a bit of bling, cause i know I dont crash it as much

I really dont wanna start a HK vs quality thread here. I have been a part of those, and they are endless discussions.. I DONOT get their radios, their servos, their kits or anything, until its been tested and approved.


Can you suggest any under or upto 40 dollar quality CF blade? I would love to look into it. I asked that question in my first post itself..

anywaz.. getting back to my question.. Is it ok to file a bit of the blade roots on the blade that is in the tighter blade grip? Is that recommended.

[Drev]

Had the same problem with a set of PRO 3D blades. I put a coat of thin ca on the sanded parts, which soaked right in, then a thin coat of thick ca over top, just enough to fill the tiny holes. I think they shouid work ok but havent tried them yet. The blades did balance well when finished.

[Volcano]

I had 3d pro carbon and some no name fiberglass that both had voids on my 550.
I gotta check the edge tradin policy, I have one good stealth blade and one good radix blade. Ill sand the roots as an experiment if theyll take em on tradin...