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PlaneHazza · 08-07-2016, 10:20 AM

Any tips/ideas on how to remove a healthy torque tube/bearings from a boom? I have the model apart for a FBL replacement and figured I'd change the boom whilst it's all apart. It is scratched and mis-shapen at the the TT gear box area. I have three spare booms so I might as well change it, but I am struggling to get the TT and bearings out. I've applied oil to the open ends.

Any thoughts?

crashcopterman · 08-07-2016, 11:02 AM

Aren't they a bear??!!?? Soft jawed vice and PULL! Takes forever, I was too impatient so I just bought a new set.

Steve

PlaneHazza · 08-07-2016, 11:08 AM

Got it out eventually. Tri flow oil wasn't cutting it so squirted WD40 from both ends. The rubber bearing mounts were so stuck to the boom that one of the bearings actually came away from the TT!

I can't find the original legacy manual. Could you remind if I need to use CA or epoxy to bind the bearings to the TT?

Cheers!

crashcopterman · 08-07-2016, 11:27 AM

Whatever you prefer, doesn't matter. But after dealing with this boom I'm switching to epoxy. If you do end up reusing the rubber bearing mounts make sure you clean off all of that WD40 ASAP, with time it will fuse them to the boom and then it's permanent.

Steve

PlaneHazza · 08-07-2016, 11:51 AM

Will do, Steve, thanks. Is 99% IPA safe to use to clean them?

crashcopterman · 08-07-2016, 12:19 PM

Absolutely.

Steve

Atomic Skull · 08-07-2016, 09:02 PM

Yeah it's a pain, I started using grease (Super Lube synthetic multi purpose) instead of oil to get them in. I grease up the inside of the boom and then grease up the rubber bushings. Unlike oil the grease won't dry up so getting them back out is easier. I also slather some inside the bushings all over the bearings while I'm at it. As the grease is sealed between the front and rear bearings it doesn't go anywhere or cause problems.

Also green locktite (sleeve retaining compound) is better than CA for attaching the bearings to the TT, it's stronger and won't fail from vibration over time. And a heat gun will soften it so that the bearings come off easily (just don't use the high temp stuff). Align R48 is basically the same thing.

08-07-2016, 10:20 AM	#1 (permalink)
PlaneHazza Registered Users Join Date: Jul 2006	Swapping boom Any tips/ideas on how to remove a healthy torque tube/bearings from a boom? I have the model apart for a FBL replacement and figured I'd change the boom whilst it's all apart. It is scratched and mis-shapen at the the TT gear box area. I have three spare booms so I might as well change it, but I am struggling to get the TT and bearings out. I've applied oil to the open ends. Any thoughts? __________________ Harry Thunder Tiger Raptor E720 CGY750 \| Mikado Logo 700 CGY760R \|SAB Kraken 580 CGY760R\| Powered by Futaba 18SZ

08-07-2016, 11:02 AM	#2 (permalink)
crashcopterman Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada	Aren't they a bear??!!?? Soft jawed vice and PULL! Takes forever, I was too impatient so I just bought a new set. Steve __________________ Nano CPX \|\| 130X \|\| 230S II 450 3D converted to 450X \|\| 360CFX \|\| 480 Fusion II 550X \|\| Oxy 5 MEG \|\| ALeeS Rush 700 Evolution \|\| Goblin 770 Sport 'My flight style, determines my crash style"

08-07-2016, 11:08 AM	#3 (permalink)
PlaneHazza Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2006	Got it out eventually. Tri flow oil wasn't cutting it so squirted WD40 from both ends. The rubber bearing mounts were so stuck to the boom that one of the bearings actually came away from the TT! I can't find the original legacy manual. Could you remind if I need to use CA or epoxy to bind the bearings to the TT? Cheers! __________________ Harry Thunder Tiger Raptor E720 CGY750 \| Mikado Logo 700 CGY760R \|SAB Kraken 580 CGY760R\| Powered by Futaba 18SZ

08-07-2016, 11:27 AM	#4 (permalink)
crashcopterman Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada	Whatever you prefer, doesn't matter. But after dealing with this boom I'm switching to epoxy. If you do end up reusing the rubber bearing mounts make sure you clean off all of that WD40 ASAP, with time it will fuse them to the boom and then it's permanent. Steve __________________ Nano CPX \|\| 130X \|\| 230S II 450 3D converted to 450X \|\| 360CFX \|\| 480 Fusion II 550X \|\| Oxy 5 MEG \|\| ALeeS Rush 700 Evolution \|\| Goblin 770 Sport 'My flight style, determines my crash style"

08-07-2016, 11:51 AM	#5 (permalink)
PlaneHazza Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jul 2006	Will do, Steve, thanks. Is 99% IPA safe to use to clean them? __________________ Harry Thunder Tiger Raptor E720 CGY750 \| Mikado Logo 700 CGY760R \|SAB Kraken 580 CGY760R\| Powered by Futaba 18SZ

08-07-2016, 12:19 PM	#6 (permalink)
crashcopterman Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada	Absolutely. Steve __________________ Nano CPX \|\| 130X \|\| 230S II 450 3D converted to 450X \|\| 360CFX \|\| 480 Fusion II 550X \|\| Oxy 5 MEG \|\| ALeeS Rush 700 Evolution \|\| Goblin 770 Sport 'My flight style, determines my crash style"

08-07-2016, 09:02 PM	#7 (permalink)
Atomic Skull Registered Users Join Date: Dec 2011	Yeah it's a pain, I started using grease (Super Lube synthetic multi purpose) instead of oil to get them in. I grease up the inside of the boom and then grease up the rubber bushings. Unlike oil the grease won't dry up so getting them back out is easier. I also slather some inside the bushings all over the bearings while I'm at it. As the grease is sealed between the front and rear bearings it doesn't go anywhere or cause problems. Also green locktite (sleeve retaining compound) is better than CA for attaching the bearings to the TT, it's stronger and won't fail from vibration over time. And a heat gun will soften it so that the bearings come off easily (just don't use the high temp stuff). Align R48 is basically the same thing.

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