Converting to n5c questions

[mattbeau]

So I finally got my 600n that I converted to DFC and on the 5th tank I had a power disconnect or brown out and it basically rebooted in the air. The resulting crash was not too bad but it's going to run me about 250-300 to get in the air again.

I'm thinking of switching over to the NC5 instead. I've been interested in the model for quite a while now and it looks like a good time to do it.

I currently am running the following

OS 50 SX-H
Align 2 in 1
Futaba r3008s s.bus
BD-3sx
Align ds610 on cyclic
Spektrum s400G on the tail
Jr ds8377 throttle
Throttle jockey governor

Are there any issues with this setup? I might change the throttle servo. I'm new to nitro but have someone to help me with that side.

I will mostly be just sport flying it. I have my goblin 380 to bash on.

Thanks for the input.



Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[boogie12]

That should be enough to get you going. If your throttle servo is a mini servo you'll be good to go. The only thing I would suggest if you haven't already done so is find out why your last heli lost power. It would really suck to carry problems from one heli to the next.

[mattbeau]

Yeah I think it was because I had the power going from the reciever to the BD 3sx instead of having their own independent power. I learned quite a bit in the BD thread

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[mattbeau]

well after I pulled the electronics from my 600, I found that one of the servo leads of my DS610s looks like it was damaged by heat. I think this was like this when I got it second hand since it was insulated, although maybe one of the leads got hot inside the insulation.





Nonetheless, Im looking at replacing the cyclic servos since these look suspect. anyone running the audacity promodeler 215oz in V3 servos. specs look good, quality looks good and price is right. Ill be mostly flying sport, no smack 3d but I might do some loops and stuff.

I will be using a 2s LiFe Pack to power them

http://www.audacitymodels.com/Produc...3/Default.aspx

[smwht]

I have a set of the 245oz in my n5c and my protos max, I've been happy with them. They are a little taller than typical so you might have to play around with shims/servo horns to get the stacked side to line up properly.

[mattbeau]

Thanks for the feedback. I ended up getting a deal on some MKS servos so I don't need any for now.

But I'm keeping the pro modelers in mind for next time..

So I guess the last thing I'm working ib I'm running a 50sx-h hyper so the fuel tabk is pressurized with the exhaust which is bad for the fuel magnets.
What header tanks are you guys running. I saw someone said they used 3m tape to mount it to their main tank. Is that still our only option?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[smwht]

I had a header tank mounted with part of a standoff from my X50, basically pulled one of the frame bolts around the tank and put the standoff in instead, then bolted the header tank to that. Haven't really seen any difference between header tanks, just go with whatever is in stock.

That said if you refill the tank after every flight the exhaust isn't that big a deal IMO.

[mattbeau]

So I took it nice and easy, I'm 95% there. I need to get some main blade spacer washers, some plumbing needs to be done and a little more work on setting up the head but she's looking Great!

The only snag i hit really was the canopy fitment. Is it usually really tight front to back. I've got it on so maybe if it needs to stretch out. I would say I was about 1mm off and had to loosen the rear canopy stands to get the thumb screws installed.


The only.other thing is I noticed the front tail gears are a little noisy, do these quiet down after some flights. I've greased them with some superlube.


Ooooh lala






Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[DUCDOC]

Looks great! The gear noise should subside within a flight or two. As for the canopy fitment I would take a hair dryer and heat up the canopy in the rear main gear area. Get it hot but don't scorch the paint then put something in between the gear and canopy to space it out and let it cool. That should solve the canopy problem and if it gets tight again just repeat the process. I just store my N5c's with foam blocks to space the canopy when not in use and all is good to go come flying time.

[mattbeau]

Originally Posted by DUCDOC

Looks great! The gear noise should subside within a flight or two. As for the canopy fitment I would take a hair dryer and heat up the canopy in the rear main gear area. Get it hot but don't scorch the paint then put something in between the gear and canopy to space it out and let it cool. That should solve the canopy problem and if it gets tight again just repeat the process. I just store my N5c's with foam blocks to space the canopy when not in use and all is good to go come flying time.

Cool, thanks for the tip

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Synergy3160]

+1 for Gabe, also Matt another little trick we do is add a tail blade washer under both rear canopy standoff so you also gain alittle extra clearance. But Gabes tip is most common method and works very well. Congrats on the new machine and by all means visit the synergy forum as well for other tips and tricks along with HF, both sites have great info to share.

K

[mattbeau]

Ok, canopy is fitting better.

Next question.
Im running cyclone main blades and they have a 12mm root thickness, where could I find the right shims to make them fit? I think I need 2 1mm washers.



Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[boogie12]

Originally Posted by mattbeau

Ok, canopy is fitting better.

Next question.
Im running cyclone main blades and they have a 12mm root thickness, where could I find the right shims to make them fit? I think I need 2 1mm washers.



Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

http://mattbotos.com/store/index.php...oducts_id=2203

[DUCDOC]

Boogie beat me to it..

[mattbeau]

Sweet, thank you

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk