protos issue during pitch pump help

[matty609]

Dear friends, I ve a problem for at least 2 months..and I don't know what should I do now...Well...both normal and stunt,when I use the pitch little hard, the heli stop rotating blades and it fell of.
So..it happens only when I use pitch harder,and It didn't do before...I can't use the heli like this because I won't be able to go fast ( it happened also in a looping),inverted ecc...
The unidirectional inside the pignon is new,alread changed the esc with a new one and still have the same problem,it do with all the lipos..what should be than??some of my friends told me that maybe could be the motor?? ( protos has 4 years with me,but I ve bought of second hand...so it will have probably more than 4..)
thank you for your tips..

[dr dremel]

We need more info. What esc/motor? Does the esc give you any error beeps? Does the motor continue to run while the rotor stops? What FBL? Did you check your receiver/sat (range check, wiggle the wires)?

[matty609]

Originally Posted by dr dremel

We need more info. What esc/motor? Does the esc give you any error beeps? Does the motor continue to run while the rotor stops? What FBL? Did you check your receiver/sat (range check, wiggle the wires)?

Motor msh scorpion original.
Esc yep 80a. no beeps from the esc.
I dont know if the motor continue to run because I press hold when happens.
protos fbl with beastx, It didn't lost signal..I ve already checked..try also to running the heli without blades and tail moving all the wires but It seems ok.

[dr dremel]

Hmm. If the motor still runs, but the rotor stops, this would indicate mechanical failure. Do you still have control over cyclic when it happens?

Maybe a bad servo pulls too much current. I know you said no signal loss, but how would you know? BeastX has no logging, YEP has no logging.
Have you tried to load the servos on the bench (wiggling the sticks and holding the blades by hand)? You´re running the esc BEC?

[matty609]

Originally Posted by dr dremel

Hmm. If the motor still runs, but the rotor stops, this would indicate mechanical failure. Do you still have control over cyclic when it happens?

Maybe a bad servo pulls too much current. I know you said no signal loss, but how would you know? BeastX has no logging, YEP has no logging.
Have you tried to load the servos on the bench (wiggling the sticks and holding the blades by hand)? You´re running the esc BEC?

Because it happens always when I am pitch pumping the heli so cant be the signa loss everytime during a pitch pump..also if rxsshould lost signal when I land, I should see the Light flashing of the receiver..let me know what do you think, thank you so much for your help

[dr dremel]

The reason I was persisting on signal loss is that I recently also had an issue like you´re describing, turned out to be a loose antenna on a sat receiver.

I would still try to load the servos on the bench. Lightly holding the blade grips/ stalling the cyclic servos while stirring the sticks should reveal if there is a problem with a servo or the BEC.

Loading up the motor (pitch pumps) followed by power loss screams overcurrent protection kicked in, but no beeps and the new esc you tried indicate that´s not the problem. But with the clone escs you never know.

Damaged motor windings or bad connection motor/esc could also be the case. Have you checked connectors between them? And by checked I mean dismantle the shrink wrap and examine the solder.

Another option would be a static discharge. Belt lubed? Checked for continuity between tailcase/boom/motor mount?

I think you also did not 100% eliminate the possibility of a OWB failure, that´s why I asked about the motor still running when the blades stop. If it indeed runs still, it´s the one way bearing. I´d try a test hover and mini pitch pumps so you can do an autorotation safely just in case.

Running out of ideas here ...

[gstoneberg]

I have had 2 YEP ESCs that would cut out because there is a firmware bug that expects a higher signal voltage than some receivers put out. One was the YEP60 in my protos 500. The other was the YEP120LV in my Trex550. The test for this problem is to not hit throttle hold when you lose power and see if the motor spins back up in flight. The reality is you just don't do throttle hold and begin an auto. In both of mine, the motor was only off for a second and then it quickly spun back up and I could safely land. It does not go through soft start. It usually happened under load and a pitch pump was almost a sure thing to cause it. I caught it once on video in the 550, you'll need to have the volume up to hear the head speed go away and then hear it spin back up. Since it had happened before and I was expecting it, I was hovering just upwind so it would be an easy auto. (Not sure why I called the ESC an escape in that video...senior moment I suspect.)

550e- v2 yep cut-out (2 min 23 sec)

If this is your problem, the fix is this: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...idProduct=8356

After installing signal boosters, neither ESC has done it again. Hope this helps.

[honkytown]

i had a similar issue with a yep 45a but with a different motor, on hard pitchpumps the motor shutdown or ESC lost commutation for 1-2sec then spun up again.

i could reproduce this event, everytime after learning the Gov. Store and changing PWM and or Timing/Autotiming this issue appeared. solution was to change PWM/Timing before learning the Gov.Store. if i wanted to change the setting i had to relearn the Gov.Store and no more motor shutdowns during hard pitch pumps.

edit: minivbar with spectrum sats

[matty609]

Thank you everybody problem solved! It was the pignon sliding..so so :ma d: I spent moneys for a new motor and esc

[Sam2b]

Hi, Matty609. Great. Do you have a flat spot on your motor shaft where your pinion grub screws press onto? If not, this may happen again. It is worth removing the motor and pinion to file a bit of a flat spot on the shaft and position the grub screw over this flat spot as it is tightened. A small amount of blue locktite on the side threads of the grub screw is best as well, but first clean the grub screw and pinion hold with rubbing alcohol and q-tip for best effect.

Unless you already have a flat spot and locktite, then good on ya.