detail photo brushless upgrade guide

[IanWhitehead65]

Originally Posted by coredump

Mine is ATmega8 as well.

Feedback from my other post suggests the older Walkera ESC/Converters used the ATmega8 and they were fine. It was the newer ESC with the ATmega88 that did not work properly. Of course, I purchased a new one especially for the upgrade and it does not provide full throttle resolution. Only sees a 100% signal. No soft start Usually starts without falling over but not always
You seem to have the older ESC and it works good. I found that my newer ATmega88 ESC/converter works fine on the V2 board but I have other mechanical problems on the heli which made me give up with it.

Thanks,

Ibs

[craig303uk]

Originally Posted by coredump

Ok I do it for you. I unmount the motor . It is 16au 0843G.

ach well bang goes that thought lol

thank you for doing that.

[coredump]

Mine has soft start. Sorry to heard that yours did not.

I just bought one of each WST-10A-LT (ebay) and WST-10A-L (clubheli),
I will report back how they well they work when they arrive.

Originally Posted by IanWhitehead65

Feedback from my other post suggests the older Walkera ESC/Converters used the ATmega8 and they were fine. It was the newer ESC with the ATmega88 that did not work properly. Of course, I purchased a new one especially for the upgrade and it does not provide full throttle resolution. Only sees a 100% signal. No soft start Usually starts without falling over but not always
You seem to have the older ESC and it works good. I found that my newer ATmega88 ESC/converter works fine on the V2 board but I have other mechanical problems on the heli which made me give up with it.

Thanks,

Ibs

[IanWhitehead65]

Originally Posted by coredump

Mine has soft start. Sorry to heard that yours did not.

I just bought one of each WST-10A-LT (ebay) and WST-10A-L (clubheli),
I will report back how they well they work when they arrive.

Are you sure the Walkera ESC has soft start? I know the 3in1 will soft start but this only works if your ESC has full throttle resolution. When my 3in1 soft starts the ESC/converter only sees a signal at 100% and then the motor starts rather violently
I did not think there are any programming options for the Walkera ESCs. This could be seen as a draw back compared to the XP ESCs but I rather like the simplicity myself

[coredump]

Now you mention it, actually I am not sure it is the 3 in 1 or the ESC doing the soft start.
I don't use soft start any way. The walkera ESC need to initialize itself and make a beep
when it first see the throttle signal. The theory is that only when it see the throttle signal,
it try to figure out it is PPM or PWM signal.

So I always use low throttle input to get the motor running in very low speed,
set the timer running then take off.

[IanWhitehead65]

Originally Posted by coredump

Now you mention it, actually I am not sure it is the 3 in 1 or the ESC doing the soft start.
I don't use soft start any way. The walkera ESC need to initialize itself and make a beep
when it first see the throttle signal. The theory is that only when it see the throttle signal,
it try to figure out it is PPM or PWM signal.

So I always use low throttle input to get the motor running in very low speed,
set the timer running then take off.

If you switch straight into IU (ST-1 or ST-2) with greater than 50% throttle the 3in1 will initiate a soft start by ramping up the throttle. If your ESC has full throttle resolution then it will perform a soft start. If you have an ESC like mine it will ignore the 3in1 throttle ramp-up until it gets to 100% and then start - with unpredictable results. This is a good arrangement because you don't want your ESC soft start clashing with any instructions from the 3in1 which I expect is why Blade did it this way.

[glassdogangle]

Originally Posted by coredump

Flip the ESC over. Reconnect the battery adapter, and connect the motor wire
to the ESC.

Why do we cut the battery leads, only to re-connect them later in the above step? I would have left them connected in the first place. That way we can test the setup first, and not have to re-solder them back in to test it!

[coredump]

You are right. I de-solder a little to quickly. You can delay the cutting of the power
and save some soldering steps.

Actually, I am having some problem with my method of leaving stock battery cable
unchanged. The cable get worn out at the spot where it joins the board. It happen to
stock MCPX as well. In other word, pulling the power cable when disconnecting the
battery will cause the wire get broken inside and it deliver less current.

I am trying out the method rubyvroom suggest on my V2 and see how it works.
https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=12

But I haven't really sort out all the problem on my V2 since
switch the power cable. Might still getting some current problem. But the methord
works on my V1 heli some far. I will update the guide base on this suggestion, if it
prove better in long run. Both method works fine when it is new, only time will tell.

[ror1]

replace stock battery cable with JST cable so you can use hyperion 550mah.
JST cable is higher gauge than stock so you have to drill out battery cable holes on 3in1. When you install JST cable make sure to solder power wires on both sides of 3in1 because the drilling out process caused a disconnect of front to back at the solder pads for power cable on 3in1.

[new bee]

Your drilling on your board? I'm not drilling on mine and I have high grade 22 ga soldered to the board. From the front. I use a solder sucker and wick. Tin your wire. If it don't fit use a tip cleaner to bore it out a little. Stick your wire in and heat your connection good and the solder will flow into the hole no problem. Never thought to drill it or solder the other side but never had any problems either. I can see where drilling would be much faster but that just seems dangerous. How many times have you done this? Do others do this? what size drill bit? I can see how drilling would be much less work. But would like more opinions. I always use micro deans connectors.

[ror1]

if you want to put a larger dia wire in the hole , drilling is the only way.
I have been in the manufacturing for 30 years so yes it is the correct way to do it.
The size of the drill is the size of the wire. I used a hand drill not an electric drill.
it is a little pen like holder for small drills and I turn the drill by hand.
something like this:
http://www.esslinger.com/12-piece-po...th-handle.aspx

if the circuit is used on both sides of PWB than you have to solder new wire to both sides otherwise you do not.

[new bee]

Thanks, After making that post I found out that you were correct. I just have been crazy busy but I have some mini drill bits and a hand drill on the way. In a sense I was doing the same thing but just reaming instead of drilling.

I found you to be correct by looking up mini drill bits and like every other one said something about a circuit board. lol

Next time search before asking.