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Outrage Velocity 50 Nitro Outrage Velocity 50 Nitro Helicopter Factory Support Forum


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Old 12-31-2009, 04:18 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Thanks. I'll be sure to build it this way.

Scott
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Old 12-31-2009, 04:21 PM   #62 (permalink)
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If the arms arnt 90 degrees all that happens is the + and - cyclic pitch range isnt equal, which isnt the end of the world.
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:37 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I just took a look at the manual, very cool. Thanks for pointing this out. I probably would have made that mistake, based on previous builds.

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Old 01-01-2010, 04:13 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Its not really a night and day difference so its not the end of the world if you get them parallel.
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:36 PM   #65 (permalink)
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LOL! Let's hope not... Mayan calendar notwithstanding!

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Originally Posted by HFG View Post
Its not really a night and day difference so its not the end of the world if you get them parallel.
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:26 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Two more years for that end to come....
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:10 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Hey the ball links are very tight, now should I size them or just put a few flights thru them seeing that this stuff (Outrage Links) have a tendency to loosen up quick. Any thoughts on this issue?
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:13 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Put a gallon thro the machine first.
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:15 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Cool that's what I thought too, I am just building my bird now!
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:16 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I sized my PP linkages as they dont really move that much, but anything above the swash DO NOT SIZE.
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:18 PM   #71 (permalink)
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PP linkages ?

Not bit on the acronyms
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:21 PM   #72 (permalink)
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PP = Push Pull, basically the linkages connecting the servo horns to the swash plate.
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:50 PM   #73 (permalink)
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K will do this will be a fist for me, I never had to do this with my Trex 250,450,500,600 or the 700...I need to get the tool next what size is needed?
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:05 PM   #74 (permalink)
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They are basically all the same size.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:06 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Ok thanks.
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Old 03-05-2010, 05:55 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Can anyone post close up photos on how you are passing wires for the Gyro and servos?
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Old 03-11-2010, 11:32 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Default gyro wire routing

I dremeled a notch out of the radio tray right in front of the servo mount that I mounted my Align 750 gyro on. This alows me to feed the tail servo wire up to the gyro, and and the wires from the gyro down to receiver easily. Results in a very clean install. I'll try to post pics when I get back home from a buisness trip.

Here are some pics that don't show it well though:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=192411
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:11 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Same here... I have my gyro installed in front on the servo mount, between the frames. I ground a bit from the front of the servo mount and the battery tray. Servo wires are fun internally, except the elevator servo which penetrates the frame in the slot under the servo (you should put some heat shrink or wrap on the wires at that point). The wires then run straight forward and do not come in contact with the frame at all.

Clyde (Foxden) in another thread said routing the wires behind the battery tray was a good idea, so I pulled the tray, bundled the wires in pairs, then tucked them under the servo trays and behind the battery tray. They emerge in the gap between the servo and battery tray. Additionally, there are two slots on either side of the servo and battery trays for wires to emerge, if necessary.

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Old 06-27-2010, 01:35 AM   #79 (permalink)
 
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1. use a small round file or carefully with a dremel, open the holes for the canopy break away tabs so that the post bolt does not bind in the frame (it will save frames)


i wanna do this mod but am i making the actual break away tab whole bigger or make the hole on the frame bigger?

cause it seems it makes sence to make the hole on the frame a little bigger so when the break away tab flexes the screw head doesn't catch on the frame..
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:03 AM   #80 (permalink)
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I used my canopy reamer and very lightly a couple of turns to the holes in the frame so the head of the bolt cleared, don't take too much, just enough for the bolts to clear
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