Pictures! My RKH rotary build

[scott s]

Use the middle hole in the servo arms. You must understand if you get a little uneven travel do to linkage rods not being perfect 90 to the swash that the fbl unit will correct for UNCOMMANDED aileron and elevator. But make sure you get those servo arms 90 degrees to the servo case on this heli
Now if you want to get a great set up you need a digital pitch gauge as the software is going to want a certain amount of cyclic throw Problem is the only pitch gauge I have found that works decent on this heli is the rclogger v2 which is mucho bucks, but I use it on my big helis also. What is nice is that it you do not need the blade holder as it does not fit these small blades for beans anyways and it has a magnet in the base, so I have some flat round neo magnets from kj magnetics that have a counter sunk hole and I bolt these to the top of the grips with some cut of root section from some old extreme blades. The grips have marks to get 0 pitch and you check by folding the blades back and at mid stick the leading edge of one blade should line up perfectly with the trailing edge of the other blade. Then I simply attach the digital pitch gauge to the magnets and zero it at exactly mid stick (50). The heli must be supported so it does not wobble or tilt back or sideways. You get very, very accurate pitch measurements this way!!

[wsntme]

I did not know the fbl would compensate for the discrepancy in my links. I will move them all to the middle holes and do the setup again. Thanks for the insight.

Do you use the vstabi software scott? I ask because according to the software, it's method for calculating pitch is more accurate than using a gauge. Do you agree, disagree?

I attempted to get the servos 90 degrees to the cases but was not quite successful since I was unsure of the best practice to do this. What I did was enter setup in vstabi (it puts servos to center) and then I put the horns on as close to 90 as possible. Servo 1 is pretty dead nuts but 2 and 3 are both above horizontal, 3 more so than 2.

The very first thing I encountered in the setup that I think maybe an issue is I was unsure how to setup the RX....since my RX is integrated into the FBL it is not an option listed. I chose "standard rx connection" and was able to get my Tx setup but was unable to get the Throttle or Gyro/bank switch sliders to show any change or input. Collective/Rudder/Elev/Alie all setup without issue though.

[scott s]

Originally Posted by wsntme

I did not know the fbl would compensate for the discrepancy in my links. I will move them all to the middle holes and do the setup again. Thanks for the insight.

Do you use the vstabi software scott? I ask because according to the software, it's method for calculating pitch is more accurate than using a gauge. Do you agree, disagree?

I attempted to get the servos 90 degrees to the cases but was not quite successful since I was unsure of the best practice to do this. What I did was enter setup in vstabi (it puts servos to center) and then I put the horns on as close to 90 as possible. Servo 1 is pretty dead nuts but 2 and 3 are both above horizontal, 3 more so than 2.

There should be a trim function in the software to adjust all servos neutrals!!
Ya the vstabi method is pretty accurate as long as you measure the blades very accurate! It is a pain in the ass compared to using a good digital pitch gauge though!

[pmerritt]

Originally Posted by scott s

Now if you want to get a great set up you need a digital pitch gauge as the software is going to want a certain amount of cyclic throw Problem is the only pitch gauge I have found that works decent on this heli is the rclogger v2 which is mucho bucks, but I use it on my big helis also.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MICRO-DIGITA...item2c7b4681a0

[SkyKraken]

Count yourselves lucky, on the zyx, the servo trim software is awful.

Its a royal pain to do on the small 130, there is no way to lock the gyro at mid-stick, its always active, try to pull a swash link off and the swash moves, no way to put it back to 0.

Takes me forever to get the swash dead nuts on. If I didn't have hitec servo's and the ability to set perfect 90s mechanically, i'd stomp the thing.

Swash zeroing tool, digital pitch gauge, 1/2 bottle of glenlivet and an hour later.
You might have a flat pirouette.

Oh oh.. now I'm gonna scare poor Bhu away from the tarot of death.

[Bhujang]

Too late... Way too late anyhow didn't the whiskey damage the zyx? You won't have a warranty now I'm sure...

[SkyKraken]

Thought I had gotten one of those bad main boards that needs sub-trimming to fly straight, but it turned out it was just the Scotch.

[scott s]

Originally Posted by pmerritt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MICRO-DIGITA...item2c7b4681a0

Ordered one of these micro digital pitch gauges. Just had to check it out LOL!
Going to see how accurate it is to my expensive rclogger V2

[pmerritt]

i'm ahead of you and to be honest, it's pretty close. I just happen to own a rclogger also.

[wsntme]

Last night I took a little time to get the tailservo and pushrod put together and setup. I'm not sure who I learned the "mcpx ball for servo link" mod from but THANKS!

I feel like this thing is pretty much ready for a test. My batteries should be here Monday .

(Click for much larger images)

[scott s]

First time you touch that tail down with any kind of authority you are going to wish you extended those boom supports with the stretch! Take them almost all the way to the tail case. You will need 2mm carbon rod and cut the rod 150mm. Remove lynk ends with HOT soldering iron. The supports will end up 160mm mounting hole to mounting hole on the aluminum ends!

[wsntme]

Scott, I was thinking I will do as you have and take the supports back further but I have not enough rod at the moment and have yet to visit the LHS. My main concern currently with the tail is not the supports though since my other 150x never had problems with these exact supports(robbed it ).

My concern is the size of my tialfin. I NEED A BIGGER ONE . II know from my experience with the 33mm tail blades that the stock size tailfin does not offer enough protection, at least not for me. Any recommendations?

I was hoping to find something designed for another model that I could modify to fit my 150x. I could cut my own out of plastic but it wont look nice I'm sure.

Another thought I had was to just sketch something up and see if I could get Dylwad to help me out with a carbon piece.



I

[scott s]

I see no need for 33mm tail blades with a stretch however I use kbdd extreme tail blades and they are 29mm hole to tip so they are a bit longer than standard tail blades. Keep the head speed up is all. The longer tail is going to give more tail authority and the smaller tail blades are easier on the grip bearings for sure. I use the xtreme tail fin on my xtreme cases and will use the lynx tail fin that came with my quad case on my rakon 3s build. I am not sold on 33mm tail blades at all and love the kbdd extreme edition tail blades for 130x!!

[wsntme]

Originally Posted by scott s

I see no need for 33mm tail blades with a stretch however I use kbdd extreme tail blades and they are 29mm hole to tip so they are a bit longer than standard tail blades. Keep the head speed up is all. The longer tail is going to give more tail authority and the smaller tail blades are easier on the grip bearings for sure. I use the xtreme tail fin on my xtreme cases and will use the lynx tail fin that came with my quad case on my rakon 3s build. I am not sold on 33mm tail blades at all and love the kbdd extreme edition tail blades for 130x!!

Man, I feel like I'm right there with you as far as the 33mm blades go ....BUT I had already bought them, their the only white blades I have ATM, I like the look...

I am glad to hear you agree they are harder on the bearings. I felt the larger blades is what lead to the quick degradation of my latest set of lynx tailgrips. I have not been using the larger blades since but thought I'd give them another shot.....now I'm thinking maybe not! Perhaps I'll just say eff the larger blades, stick with stock fin and be done with it.

I appreciate your input scott.

[scott s]

FYI, I just looked at my xtreme tail fin and there would be plenty ground clearance with 33mm tail blades but the xtreme fin is not lynx or rakon tail case friendly or stock case for that matter. I compared the length with the lynx fin that came with my quad case and the lynx is longer! Quite a bit longer so I would use this lynx fin

http://www.lynxheli.com/product_info...ducts_id=22432

PS. the kbdd xtreme edition blades are known for incredible bite and they are the stiffest plastic blades I have ever found!!

[pmerritt]

i ran the longer blades on my first tests and then ran the kbdd.....i couldn't tell the difference...i left the kbdd's on there. Since i never got to do extended testing though....i'm torn on whether to stretch my second bird or leave it non-stretch. You guys need to hurry up and get going so you can give me a recommendation. I've never flown one of these in stock size and barely flew the stretch. So I have no baseline really.

[wsntme]

This maybe a dumb question but when I'm doing setup in vstabi...should I have the heli on it's skids, or propped on the belly? I did it with the heli on it's belly so that the mainshaft was perpendicular to the ground, I hope this was the correct approach .

[scott s]

Originally Posted by wsntme

This maybe a dumb question but when I'm doing setup in vstabi...should I have the heli on it's skids, or propped on the belly? I did it with the heli on it's belly so that the mainshaft was perpendicular to the ground, I hope this was the correct approach .

Belly is fine. You used the mathematical way to determine pitch did you not??
It really wont make a difference then as long as you know you had 0 pitch at mid stick by folding the blades back and they lined up perfectly with each other!!
If you were using a digital pitch gauge then having it on belly helps but still not a big deal because you can zero the gauge to the blades at mid stick 0 pitch as long as when you fold the blades back they line uo perfectly with each other as that is 0 pitch. Problem with soft skids using a digital pitch gauge is the heli moves around to easily and the readings bounce all over the place. I always come up with a way to securely keep the heli from moving around. I usually put a block under the tail fin so it cant rock back and forth and securely mount the skids to a board so the do not spread out and flex. I do not use the lynx ultra flex gear. I hate those with passion LOL!

[wsntme]

Why the hate for the ultraflex?

[scott s]

Originally Posted by wsntme

Why the hate for the ultraflex?

LOL! I think I explained mostly why above with the digital pitch gauge and soft springy landing gear. I cant set my 130x's on their belly with the esc mounted underside!!

Plus if you ever come down hard straight on the skids the ultra flex will just spread out and the belly and frame will take all the impact. Nope do not like them at all period!!
I would rather sacrifice a broken xtreme carbon landing strut where it bolts to the landing gear mounts as that is where they break than let my frame take all the impact and my esc's LOL!