Official "Tips & Tricks" Thread

[timewerx]

First of all, I didn't bother posting this in the main section. Since if you'll be learning flying outdoors most the time, you better stick with the bigger helis for bigger gust immunity.

But if you have no other heli than the 4G6, here's a tip for beginners flying in normal mode and had to practice outdoors(outdoors is great, wide open space and you can make more mistakes before you hit something!):

-Reduce headspeed: less headspeed = less gust/updrafts/downdrafts response. Your heli flies a bit smoother in wind. Throttle curve I use: L=0%, 1=33%(just enough speed to keep control in case of strong updraft and you need to land), 2=52.5%, 3=77.5%, H=100%

-Pitch curve: L to 1 = -1 degree pitch, 2 = 6 degree pitch, 2 to H = linear pitch increase to 10 degrees.

-Increase DR&Expo to max settings you are comfortable flying with

The 4G6 will be less responsive to throttle changes save for 1 to 2 position. But more importantly, less responsive to gusts, but still a battle to fly in wind(you have been warned!), better fly a bigger heli in wind if you have.

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537

First of all, this mod is not intended to encourage careless or reckless flying!! It's a very bad habit to acquire and will cost you later...

This mod has been found to have also improved handling with the effect similar to increasing headspeed! Also, by cutting small excess portions of the vinyl tape at the trailing edge(back of the blade), this mod could also balance your blades! So how about protecting, improving handling, and balancing your blade in just one mod!!

This is the specific vinyl tape I use. It has glossy finish which is great in terms of aerodynamics. This particular tape brand adheres very well to the foam blades and is the best I've used so far. I also use it to repair the blades if the damage is not so bad


Purpose:
-This mod makes your undamaged stock blades much more resilient in crashes than otherwise. Makes it possible to survive several crashes if you're not intentionally trying to destroy your helicopter or learning 3D (and fell out of the sky from 100 ft)

Physics behind the mod:
-The excess bit of the vinyl tape will dissipate most of the kinetic energy of the main blades into heat(don't worry, it won't melt, vinyl tape is heat-resistant!)
-By the time the blades are crunching into the wall or pavement, it would have dissipated enough energy to not get damaged, scratched, most likely.
-In serious impacts, the vinyl tape will hold the tips intact but it may buckle. However, the blade roots will be damaged or even cracked.
-Striking a hard pole, or a sharp corner will offer less protection. You will likely get blade damage nearer to the roots than the vinyl.

Remove and replace the vinyl tape with a new tape every time you crash. After much time with this mod, I discovered the tape can be scraped and it will offer much less protection if it does. Also it could get wrinkled in a crash and may badly affect helicopter performance. Better than replacing the whole blade huh?

**This mod should will also work for the simulated carbon fiber blade, this mod was never tried on CF and wooden blades**

[timewerx]

-Cut greaseproof paper shown in the pic in a similar shape and size. I got my greaseproof paper from a thin double adhesive tape so it's greaseproof on both sides! It's as thin as a letter paper.
-Punch hole in the middle, hole is just enough size to snugly fit the feathering shaft
-Fit it between the O-ring and the spacer shown in the pic.

This is a better mod than simply filing away some of your feathering shaft to shorten it, because the tighter fit is good but it will wear the stock O-ring a faster too. Greaseproof paper also has lubricating quality so it's very good will not increase wear on your O-ring. But it you've already shortened your feathering shaft, this mod may not work for you or even make things worse!

Normal flight tested with 100% DR expo and travel rates, and handling was markedly improved I can't 3D yet, sorry, but we're coming there!

[DirtyHarry]

Hi guys,

sorry to bother you but others might have the same problem: replacing the rudder servo rod I'm missing the piece of metal which is holding the rod in the tail. In parcel list I can't find it therefore I'd be happy somebody could help.

[Steve Joblin]

No bother at all, but please post your question as a new post in the forum and not here in the Tips & Tricks section. When you post, can you include a photo of what exactly you are referring to? Thanks!

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537

Step by Step instructions below the video



This mod lets your external bevel gear slip in a crash or other accidents that cause the tail rotor to stop while the main rotor is turning, thus, eliminating the issue of gear stripping without compromising your drive train!

For emphasis, if you let the bevel gear too lose, you will have issues with tail tracking, too tight, you will again strip your gear.... If you've done it too lose, get another bevel and loosen it up with less turns or if you got it too tight(stripped your gear) use the same gear and loosen it more by turning around the shaft more.

Also you need to make sure the main shaft collar is screwed on tight and that the main shaft only have very little to no free play if you try to move it up and down. Because if it's lose, you increase the risk of stripping the front tail gear and/or having a bad tail hold.

Also please check after everytime you crash that the modded gear didn't get loose. If it's loose enough, it will slip during flight, when you least expected it, and you will crash! You have been warned!!

As for the modded gear itself, it will probably take many crashes before it becomes too lose(tested myself or rather due to my piloting skills) If it becomes too lose, replace with a new bevel and repeat the modding instructions, Like I know, you and me, we have tons of these spares!!!!

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537

Download attached blade tips.zip, extract the jpeg file inside and print it.

I strongly recommend to use 185 gsm thick board paper. Too thick and it will not efficiently absorb energy on impact, too thin and you'll have more serious problems!

If you're not familiar with the measurement, it's at least twice as thick as normal letter paper.

-Do not use blades that has completely cracked on the roots.
-Do not mix blades with others or you might encounter severe vibration. Only use blades together that were originally paired when you purchased it.
-You may need to re balance blades after doing this mod to eliminate any vibration.

This mod lets you reuse your damaged blades and make them even more resilient than before! This paper tipped blades is even more resilient than my vinyl tape mod and damaged tip can be simply folded back to shape!!

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537

Now updated to Canopy V2 (June 4, 2010). The V2 is slightly larger, has more secure and more reliable skid attach and will more easily fit internal configuration other than stock. For example, mounting the RX perpendicular to the heli (if you're using HP08 outrunner), spektrumized 4G6, and using the larger RX2610S. Finally, it offers better overall crash protection in any configuration you have.

For best results, use 185 GSM thick 'board' paper (this paper is at least twice thickness of normal letter paper) and apply clear tape after printing. Board paper is very durable after clear tape application as well as further improve aerodynamic qualities of the paper canopy. Makes it light years ahead of the stock canopy in terms of durability and performance!

Please download 4G6 Sleek Canopy.zip from the attachments. There are two files inside (jpg and pdf file, either which you can print) and one design is a template you can use to apply your own designs. Simply print and no need to setup printer (other than setting print quality)

Features:

-Combines sound level of aerodynamics and simplicity. Slim cross-section of the canopy has been made similar to the high performance canopies used by 90-size helicopters! All this leads to improved performance and efficiency by reducing turbulent eddies that is apparent with the stock canopy design!

-Reduced canopy turbulence may also lead to more stable tail hold.

-Improves lift in normal attitudes (non-inverted flight) as the streamlined canopy poses smaller drag profile against rotorwash.

-Lightweight and very durable (if done right with the recommended materials)

-Improves ventilation of motors.

-'big heli' look.

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537

Step by Step instructions below the video


If you are getting quite frustrated with Walkera 4G6 tail servos this could be an alternative. However, I didn't say it's a good alternative!

Be warned, if you're quite sure your 4G6's gyro is the one defective, this mod will only make your problems worse!!

This is the part/model number: Servo (3g-2) (WK-03-2)

Please beware that some hobby shops sell the 4G6 CCPM servos as CB100 servos!! So avoid those servos!

But in my case, I found it a superior alternative because:

-It is cheaper
-Responds faster to the gyro, more solid hold despite low head speed and aggressive use of throttle.
-In my experience, I always find 4#3b/CB100 parts to be more durable and more reliable
-More likely to be in stock because... ...4#3b servos hardly break down so there bound to be always several in stock
-Runs cooler
-Has no feedback issues compared to my stock tail servo. It is completely motionless in heading hold mode when you place it down with motor off.
-Might work as replacement to CCPM servos too, However, I never tried it yet

Disadvantage:
-Since you need to back off gyro sensitivity, you run a bigger risk of slow tail drifts CW or CCW. in my case, this issue was minor and only happened occassionally. A little bit of trimming solved it and tail hold was solid throughout the pack.

In this vid, I ran my 4G6 through the paces. Rapid rudder throw, no piros, sorry, can't do it in this tight space!, flying back, stopping in a dime, throttle banging(not too much since I'm low on battery power already), and of course, slow rudder turns. The 4#3b servo is twice as fast and sensitive as the tail servo so you need to back some TX settings down to make it flyable

[ifitaintbrokeitwillbe]

Originally Posted by timewerx

This mod lets your external bevel gear slip in a crash or other accidents that cause the tail rotor to stop while the main rotor is turning, thus, eliminating the issue of gear stripping without compromising your drive train!

For emphasis, if you let the bevel gear too lose, you will have issues with tail tracking, too tight, you will again strip your gear.... If you've done it too lose, get another bevel and loosen it up with less turns or if you got it too tight(stripped your gear) use the same gear and loosen it more by turning around the shaft more.

Also you need to make sure the main shaft collar is screwed on tight and that the main shaft only have very little to no free play if you try to move it up and down. Because if it's lose, you increase the risk of stripping the front tail gear and/or having a bad tail hold.

Also please check after everytime you crash that the modded gear didn't get loose. If it's loose enough, it will slip during flight, when you least expected it, and you will crash! You have been warned!!

As for the modded gear itself, it will probably take many crashes before it becomes too lose(tested myself or rather due to my piloting skills) If it becomes too lose, replace with a new bevel and repeat the modding instructions, Like I know, you and me, we have tons of these spares!!!!

You say rotate the gear 33 times ... how can you do that it is fixed to the shaft?

[Steve Joblin]

I haven't done the mod yet, but I imagine you hold the gear firmly while you rotate the shaft... I would think it probably would be pretty hard the first few turns until the plastic starts to stretch out of shape a bit and allow the shaft to slip past the flat spot.

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537


Step by Step instructions below the videos


This mod is intended to be R&R'able (Remove and Replaceable). On average, it takes 5 crashes before the paper tips becomes too mangled that it already affects performance.

That's why it's important that good quality white glue such as 'Elmer's Glue All' is used for strong enough bond to the paper, carbon core, and foam. Do not use CA or any 'super glues' as it will make R&R especially difficult and it will leave an irremovable residue on the carbon core and possibly melt the foam. White glue forms a very strong bond while still easy and clean enough to remove.

To remove damaged paper tip, cut a slit in the paper parallel to the carbon core. Avoid cutting the foam or the carbon core. Then tear the paper tip off.

Finally, cut another tip from the template and apply to the blade following steps 6 to 11 in the instructions below. Then you'll have a brand-new looking blade that's also performing good again that costed almost nothing to repair! Thanks and enjoy!





Please download the template provided and print, thank you! And don't forget to balance the blades after applying this mod!!!

High Performance Blade Tip V4

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537


This particular mod was inspired by Miss Emily Cummin's 'Evaporative Fridge'!

Step by Step instructions below the video

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537

This is with no certainty how much weight was lost, since I have no weight scale for such small weights.

Please note that if you do all Levels 1 to 3 weight reduction or basically all my mods, reduction to only 70 grams gross flying weight is entirely possible!

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=2279317&postcount=82

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537

Comprehensive flight tests with RX2610S by Pete914 and crash test by me!

Step by Step instructions below the video

[timewerx]

Please read this, very important:

Disclaimer:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=193537

This mod attempts to give the 4G6 the least amount of weight without sacrificing durability

However a lot of risk is involved in this one so be careful!!
Please note that if you do all Levels 1 to 3 weight reduction or basically all my mods, reduction to only 70 grams gross flying weight is entirely possible!

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=2279317&postcount=82

[poulsbobill]

I know this is well known but haven't seen this one posted here, so for a newbie ...

I replaced my stock battery/esc connector's with the micro deans and got an instant +20% or more power improvement. Punch out's were the most obvious/fun from my stock motor. Cheap and easy mod until you can replace the motor.

Bill

[timewerx]

These Servo (3g-2) (WK-03-2) can now be used as CCPM servos for your 4G6 too.

I've just flight/crash tested it w/e.

So what's in it for you?

-Legendary reliability and quality of 4#3b/CB100 servos at your 4G6!

-Fits perfectly on the main frame...


What's the bad?

-Wires are a bit short. I used Jskrapper's RX2609 configuration and the wires are just long enough to plug into the RX

-Definitely too short for the RX2610S due to its unique mounting. To make the wires reach the RX2610S, you definitely need to extend the wires from those broken 4G6 servos you're about to toss...

[timewerx]

Original file came from this site:

http://www.rc-sim.de/cms/index.php/en

Please see attached to download model to use with Reflex XTR Simulator.

-Load model in Reflex XTR
-Set simulator>>modify simulation params>>general tab and set 'time expansion' factor to 0.6.

If you can fly the modified Trex 250 model properly with such settings, you real 4G6 will be piece of cake to fly!!

[timewerx]

Do not bind the 4G6 while holding it in your hand. After you connect the batteries and turn on TX or vice versa, quickly put the 4G6 down on the ground or any non-moving platform during the binding process.

I recently discovered that if the 4G6 is moving while binding, the gyro will 'remember' the motion right at the point of successful binding. This will cause tail drift or worse. It actually doesn't matter for the 4#3b/CB100 if you're holding it in your hand or not so I think, this is a 4G6-specific issue.

If left on the ground while binding and the tail servo did not move, you can assure yourself of tail-drifting-free flight for the rest of the pack! In fact, there' no need to use rudder trim at all if the binding is right and the servo/gyro are okay. I've studied this phenomenon repeatedly and the results are consistent.

By the same measure, do not move the rudder stick while binding and set rudder trim to neutral - only use rudder trim as last resort for eliminating tail drift in HH mode but whenever you need to bind again, set rudder trim to neutral every time before you bind.