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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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11-26-2013, 07:12 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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Trex 600n DFC stock setup?
Hey guys, I just got a new kit of the trex600n FDC I having probles with the set up. I followed all the instructions up to the latter and now that I have all linkages to 90deg and swash plate level I DONT HAVE zero pitch.... im somewhere around +5.
Its no way in this world to get 0 pitch and keep everything center like it suppose to be. Does anybody has run to this problem...... Im running everything stock like it comes in the kit... Thank you |
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11-26-2013, 07:15 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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I've seen this on some of the kits.
One solution is to grind the "ring" off the elevator ball link, and cut 2-3 mm off the bottom of the link. This will allow the swash to sit lower so you will attain 0 degrees pitch. |
11-29-2013, 06:26 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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The upper blade grip arm and servo rod ball links are bottomed out and can't be shortened?
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Diabolo 700, Oxy 5 Nitro, OMP M2, Futaba |
11-30-2013, 07:33 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Yep same problem here.
Blade grip arms cannot be any shorter in my case. Hacking at the elevator ball link seems to be the fix. God knows how strong it will be afterwards. |
11-30-2013, 10:54 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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600N DFC 0'
crgonzalez08
Here are the pics I promised. Using the shorter shaft that does not reach the 3rd bearing block (kit from 1st batch of 600N DFC) |
12-01-2013, 01:09 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Your setup looks fine. The stock main DFC shaft is too short and that drops the head hight. Then you can't get 0 pitch even with the ball links bottomed.
I buy the long H60159 and cut it to 182mm (3mm longer than AGNH6NH002XX) and drill a 3mm bolt hole 5" from the shaft third bearing dia step down.
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Diabolo 700, Oxy 5 Nitro, OMP M2, Futaba |
12-01-2013, 04:05 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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To get the DFC head & swash to work properly (without modifing an old main mast) it is important that the A-arm bell-crank is truly horizontal.
As for the DFC main mast, you have to get the right DFC nitro main mast - the one that came with the kit is too short. The one you want is the H6NH002XXW To get 0 degrees at mid stick without modifications requires properly setting up the front A-arm assembly. Adjusting the A-arm has to be your first move - anything else, and you will not get it right. I think they designed the A-arm to be your point of reference for every step after this because the DFC has almost no adjustability. Set your FBL controller to 0 on all 3 servo's center points. This is the start of getting a good mechanical setup before you try to fine tune the setup using the FBL controller's adjustments. You need a straight edge (ruler) for the next steps that is about 6" or 8" long. Use the straight edge to line up from the center screw of the left swash servo's wheel to the center bolt of the left swash bell-crank. Sight through the opening in the frame to see that at 0 degree collective (center stick) the center of the "hinge pin" on the A-arm frame should be perfectly in line with the edge of the ruler. You have to be a little careful here. If the A-arm hinge pin is too high or low, adjust the servo wheel (use a different set of holes and rotate the wheel) until it is damn close, then adjust the servo center in the FBL controller to get it perfect. Once you see the A-arm hinge pin is on center with the ruler, do not make any more centering adjustment on that one servo - this is important. For all intents and purposes, because there is no adjustability on the A-arm ball-link (where is connects to the swashplate), you have now set the swashplate's 0 degree position for that 1 servo. The other two will have to be adjusted to match this one. I always play with the servo wheel orientation until I find a position that allows me almost perfect 90 degree connection to the links with <10% change to the servo centering on the FBL controller. Assuming the A-arm is now perfectly aligned, adjust your left and right bell-cranks so the ball at the end is also perfectly in line with your ruler (it should extend out far enough). Play around with the left & right servo wheels first before you start to change the center point for them in the FBL controller. BUT - DO NOT CHANGE THE CENTER SERVO'S center point - just left or right as needed. Again, try to find a servo wheel orientation that gets you damn close to perfect, then change the left & right servo's center in the FBL controller to get it perfect. At this point, your A-arm and your two bell-cranks are perfectly in-line with each other and perfectly horizontal to the frame and 0 degrees pitch. Now, adjust the left and right swash links until you get an almost perfectly flat swash-plate (using your swash leveling tool). You should be no more the 1/2 turn away from perfect on the left & right side when you are done (the letter A always faces to the outside on the Align ball-links). Use the FBL controller's servo center on the left & right servos to get it perfect. DO NOT TOUCH THE CENTER SERVO'S center point! Now, adjust the + and - end point the way you would expect. Full up stick, and adjust the 3 servos to get a perfectly level swash at 100% up. Full down stick, and adjust the 3 servos to get a perfectly level swash at 100% down.The key is the center servo and A-arm. That is the starting point. Note that the 4 points starting at the center of the front servo, then the pin in the front cyclic bell crank (A-arm on the DFC), then the center bolt of the left cyclic bell crank, the end ball on the left cyclic bell crank and the center of the front cyclic servo (center servo) are all in exact alignment on a perfectly straight line. |
12-01-2013, 06:27 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Hold up a minute and let me soak this all in I have a kit coming tomorrow and were saying the mainshaft won't work? In all fairness that cant be true,has align been made aware of this? I need to buy what mainshaft to make my brand new kit work? I don't believe it!
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600 DFC HV Pilot Brandon J. |
12-01-2013, 06:31 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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So has align fixed the problem? Thanks.
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600 DFC HV Pilot Brandon J. |
12-01-2013, 07:07 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Quote:
The early kits had the H6NH001XXW which has does not have the extra length below the lower jesus bolt to engage the 3rd bearing. From the lower jesus bolt up, it is fine. Confirm which mast you have as soon as the kit shows up. If it is wrong, A) Contact the place you bought it for a new H6NH002XXW main mast. They should send it to you at no charge. B) Go to the local hobbyshop and pay $16 for 2 new H6NH002XXW C) Use the shorter H6NH001XXW until you crash it and need to buy a new main mast. Then buy the H6NH002XXW. |
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12-01-2013, 07:39 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Oh no don't get me wrong,the 3rd bearing doesn't concern me would anyone happen to know the correct length shaft I should expect to have in my kit dude I love align helis and they are the best in the world period,just want a smooth build so I can smoke next weekend for the first time lol.
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600 DFC HV Pilot Brandon J. |
12-01-2013, 07:42 PM | #13 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Quote:
If it was "optional", they wouldn't have corrected the kits that shipped later. If it was optional, the retailers would not be supplying the H6NH002XXW for free to anyone that asks. They screwed up. I would agree that you CAN fly with the H6NH001XXW (short shaft). But, it was designed for the 3rd bearing block to be used. If you are expecting to get the "right part" (H6NH002XXW), then it will measure 106mm from the bottom of the welded ring to the bottom of the shaft. If your are expecting to get the "wrong part" (H6NH001XXW), it will measure about 95mm from the bottom of the welded ring to the bottom of the shaft. |
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12-01-2013, 08:08 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Right but what my concern is top ring that sits on top bearing block to the head mounting hoe so can achieve an optimal setup,if the 2 shafts are the same on that distance than it makes no difference,right? Were talking about a good mechanical setup and 0deg at midstick.
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600 DFC HV Pilot Brandon J. |
12-01-2013, 08:16 PM | #15 (permalink) | ||
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Quote:
Quote:
"From the ring up", they are the same. |
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12-02-2013, 04:00 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Appreciate the instructions but the DFC kit does not work as you suggest, the elevator arm is too long, or the links to the blade control arms are too long, meaning zero pitch can only be achieved by lowering the swash and losing symmetry or shortening the elevator arm somehow.
The long or short main shaft makes no difference as you say, from where the shaft sits on the top bearing block everything is the same. |
12-02-2013, 07:47 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Got my kit and man is it beautiful got the short shaft though If Ben has flown it like this I have no worries. Just wonder why there isn't a shorter a arm or dfc links,and I obviously got an older kit,any other things we should look out for?
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600 DFC HV Pilot Brandon J. |
12-04-2013, 10:31 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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The one thing I noticed in your photos is there is a lot of threads showing on each end of the servo links up to the swashplate. I have the same setup up but my links have about a thread or two showing. I measure mine at 2.35" ball link center to center. You don't want a rod to come apart. So just make you have enough rod threaded in the ball link.
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Diabolo 700, Oxy 5 Nitro, OMP M2, Futaba |
12-07-2013, 08:20 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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I just had this same problem, I worked out its to do with the elevator servo.
If you look closely at the picture in the manual you will see that the elevator servo wheel is supposed to be offset. On page 22 it shows where the elevator arm should sit a mid stick. Once I adjusted this I had a perfect level swash at mid, low/high and equal travel. I also found a mistake in the manual latest 600n dfc kit the tail control arm, both linkage balls should be M3 X 4- 8.68mm otherwise the carbon tail control rod can bind, Align supplied the extra linkage ball in the kit but doesn't mention it in the manual.
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3 Align 450 Pro's Align 600N DFC, CGY 750, reactor X2 os 55hzr |
12-07-2013, 08:06 PM | #20 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Good catch do you have a pic of the ball on the tail you're referring to? Also the tail slider bushing,have they been good about theloctite on it. I always destroy them by taking them out to find its been done.
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600 DFC HV Pilot Brandon J. |
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