MD500E G-Jive 600 12s

[JoseReyes]

Here are a few pic's of my new project that replaced my MD500 Tow Defender 600 size that I lost to stripped Main Gear in flight.

3000mah x 2 lipo's hiding underneath cockpit. Ready for maiden flight soon.

[chrisl]

That looks very nice, would love to see a video of it in flight. I have the red version, only two blades and love the way it flies!

[JoseReyes]

Mechanics have been flight tested. Will be doing a maiden on the bird this coming weekend weather permitting. Hopefully I'll be able to get a video soon.

[Keyrigger]

Before you get it up in the air, a suggestion. I had a stripped gear create the same situation with my TOW Defender. I was using Mod .7 gearing and for the weight of the model, it was too much. I have had lots of argument against it citing many years of flying with Mod .7 gears and no issues. That's fine for those that have been lucky so far but when you start getting into large bodies on .7 gearing, the chances for a stripped gear are ten times as likely. I would take your Mod 7 ratio and match it with Mod 1. and install it before you maiden that helicopter. I have pushed my 17 pound TOW Defender a lot, doing Immelman's, Split "S"s, very high speed, high angle approaches, and the Mod 1. gear never let loose. For a nice little 550, the .7 gearing works just great. I am planning a 700 size Jet Ranger build in the next year and it will have Mod 1, gearing in an Align 600EFL Pro chassis. I hope this information is useful.

Don

[JoseReyes]

Before you get it up in the air, a suggestion. I had a stripped gear create the same situation with my TOW Defender. I was using Mod .7 gearing and for the weight of the model, it was too much. I have had lots of argument against it citing many years of flying with Mod .7 gears and no issues. That's fine for those that have been lucky so far but when you start getting into large bodies on .7 gearing, the chances for a stripped gear are ten times as likely. I would take your Mod 7 ratio and match it with Mod 1. and install it before you maiden that helicopter. I have pushed my 17 pound TOW Defender a lot, doing Immelman's, Split "S"s, very high speed, high angle approaches, and the Mod 1. gear never let loose. For a nice little 550, the .7 gearing works just great. I am planning a 700 size Jet Ranger build in the next year and it will have Mod 1, gearing in an Align 600EFL Pro chassis. I hope this information is useful.

Don

Thanks for the info Don, I do appreciate help from you guys.... your MD500 Tow Defender is one great looking machine.

I took it up in the air on the back yard to do a shake down hover. Although it flew perfect with the 105mm tail blades with the mechanics only, it did not hold very well with the fuse, I was expecting so rework anyways. I've increased the gain on the radio and replaced the blades with same size 105mm Align this time and it did hold better, however, I'm not satisfied how is holding so I'm planning on replacing them with 115mm align tail blades. I'm currently running governor mode 1500, 1550, 1575 head speed on a 500kv with 14t pinion gear with 170 main gear 12s on 3000mah lipo's and this setup gives me around 9 minutes flying time give or take with juice to spare. ...

These are the same mechanics I had on the MD500 Tow Defender. I think a combination of extreme hot weather and aggressive maneuvers caused the main gear to stripped. I'm using spin blades main blades and they fly very well but do not auto rotate at all

I'll look into the mod 1 later to figure out what all needs replacing. I will not be doing aggressive flying, but that being said, sometimes we get carried away

Thanks again for taking time to school a novice.

[Andy01]

I use Mod 0.7 on my 19lb Seahawk, but it is a Trex 700 164T Mod 0.7 main gear with a KDE hub, which is about 50% wider than the the stock Trex 600 170T Mod 0.7 main gear.

I do not fly aggressively but it is a heavy 12s (2x 5000mAh) heli with 4x 600mm main and 4x105mm tail blades. I have used it for a couple of hundred flights now. I also have the CC Ice 2 80HV ESC tamed down to reduce spool-up speeds and the rate of change of speed.

It depends on how your gearing etc works out to give you the required headspeed as to which is better suited. Generally Mod 1 is more bulletproof than Mod 0.7, although I have chewed up a couple of old Heim gears that are internally toothed Mod 1 on my Vario Long ranger, so depending on materials etc, they are not foolproof.

Colin

[Keyrigger]

Hi Colin:

Yes, gear width will have a very large effect on the pressure exerted on it by the pinion. I was blissfully unaware of the difference in gear width of the Align setup but now I know.. Mine was the Mikado system and they didn't come up with a wide gear setup until recently but only for the Mod 1. gearing. Those also require some mods to the frame to clear the much wider gear. The main in my TOW Defender is the second Mod 1. gear I have installed as the first one was destroyed in the crash I had in California. I know the gears are getting harder to find around the LHS's these days and at the rate things are going, will be unobtainium in a couple of years or less. I am not stockpiling parts for the Logo's I have as they will be in production for a good amount of time but I am now looking at picking through the parts bins in the get-togethers I attend for gears that fit my CH-139 and my AS350 as those chassis will be with me for a good amount of time. Take care.

Don

[Peter Sijpkes]

Hello, Your MD500E looks great. I bought the same machine in the color red. Can you help me with two questions I have.

1) The instructions mention the skids need to secured with set screws to the landing gear. Only there are no holes in the Landing gear. What did you do, glue them ?
2) How did you route the wires to the leds in the skids ? In side the skids and landing gear ? How did you realize that ?

Thanks,

Peter

[JoseReyes]

Originally Posted by Peter Sijpkes

Hello, Your MD500E looks great. I bought the same machine in the color red. Can you help me with two questions I have.

1) The instructions mention the skids need to secured with set screws to the landing gear. Only there are no holes in the Landing gear. What did you do, glue them ?
2) How did you route the wires to the leds in the skids ? In side the skids and landing gear ? How did you realize that ?

Thanks,

Peter

I had to drill small holes to get the skid to the landing gear. You can do that or glue them. If you glue them and need to remove them it could be an issue.

I routed them inside the skids and underneath the landing gear support. If you turn the heli upside down, you can see the wires. I then painted them black to camouflage them a little. Since they're painted black, unless you are looking for them, you will not see them in flight nor on display unless you look underneath. No big deal for me. I thought about putting them in side the landing gear support, but this would have weakening the supports, so I opted for the external routing and paint.

I'm using the spin-blades 5 blades flat black and a chaos 600 esp mechanics with a 12s setup.