Just pulled the trigger

[Hoosiermo1]

I am super excited. I just pulled the trigger on a 550 v2 new "at" model with pro head and slant gears. I had the guy take the 3gx out and keep it so I could put my 7200bx reciever in it. I was torn between a 600 pro efl and this one. I hope I will be content.

I haven't found any build videos yet so if anyone has any tips or suggestions I'm open as this is only my second build.

I decided on the 550 because batteries, repairs and upgrades tend to be a little less expensive and I'm normally fairly limited on my heli cash.
Thanks in advance for any help and I'm happy to join the club.

Thanks

[3din]

Where did you end up getting it from?

[Hoosiermo1]

Elite performance in Florida. The guy is awesome. He will work with you on price. Very reasonable. I paid 650 shipped minus 3gx for the new 2.1 version. You can find the fb version from gonitrohobbies for 620. Pm I'll give you his number. Tell him I sent ya.

[shein95]

Depending how your programming goes on the beast x, kde will have those new vbar/beast x friendly arms for the grips coming out soon. and the usual cc bec pro pulling off main/ life pack or direct life pack

[Hoosiermo1]

I've been looking at those. The results look positive. Do those different size balls for the swash come with the kit or do I have to buy them separately? Also where do you mount the additional 2s lipo for servos? I ran the same esc on my 500 but used the built in bec.

[shein95]

I know ready heli sells the voltz radio packs and most places sells them in whatever brand they sell. i personally just run it off of the main pack but there are quite a few that run off of separate pack.

[Hoosiermo1]

I decided on a life 6.6v 1100mah 10c rx pack to feed my beast x and servos. I hope the 11 amp current is enough. It seems to work for others on here. I also found a used cc ice 100 on here that may be here Friday. Anyone who runs the 112/12t care to share what governed head speeds you're running. I am after long flight times for training. I have only ever gone inverted with an mcpx and a b400 so I won't be doing any 3d. Will 2000 be enough for circuits with coordinated turns and low fast fly bys. For now at least. Maybe a few big stall turns but no hard flying.
Thanks to everyone who has helped without even knowing it.
Edit:
The pinion is 11t

[Reever45]

The max headspeed you can set in the Ice100 gov set rpm mode is like 2275 ish before you get the warning with the 112/12 gearing. I run mine at 2250 most of the time,if you want to run 2000 that should be fine for what you want to do.I put back in around 3400mah after a 7 minute flight, I don't fly 3D just sport flying loops,stall turns,cuban eights,some inverted flight and some stationary flips and rolls etc.

Whoops sorry i am running 112/11 which is what came with the kit, i think with a 12t pinion you would be mid 2400's for headspeed max if i remember right

[SargeAF]

Originally Posted by Hoosiermo1

I am super excited. I just pulled the trigger on a 550 v2 new "at" model with pro head and slant gears. I had the guy take the 3gx out and keep it so I could put my 7200bx reciever in it. I was torn between a 600 pro efl and this one. I hope I will be content.

I haven't found any build videos yet so if anyone has any tips or suggestions I'm open as this is only my second build.

I decided on the 550 because batteries, repairs and upgrades tend to be a little less expensive and I'm normally fairly limited on my heli cash.
Thanks in advance for any help and I'm happy to join the club.

Thanks

Me too...from the same source!
I've been flying a .30 size Century Hawk Pro and I wanted something that size that was electric. Most of my airplanes are electric and I just about throw up everytime I buy a gallon of 30% fuel. I looked into converting my Hawk to electric and converting it to FBL, but in the end it would still cost over $500 to do so and it would still be mechanical mixing. I also looked into the Century Swift NX and converting it to FBL, but I prefer the direct servo to swash setup of the TRex 550. The new Century 640E looks like a very nice helicopter, but I don't think I'm ready for a 12S machine.

I'm going to run my 3GX direct from a LiFe pack. I'll be flying mostly sport/pattern type (FFF, loops, rolls, stall turns, tail slides, stationary flips/rolls, backwards flight, etc.) I also enjoy just slow, scale like flight as well. Looking forward to the build!

v/r
SargeAF

[koppterx]

I don't think there are any "must haves" on a 550 during the build on a 550. there are a couple of nicieties - mainly replacing some of the plastic with metal parts that use machine screws. all can be added over time. otherwise, it is a straightforward build. on the three that I have built i put the rear tray on top and mounted the fbl unit on that tray. keeps the unit accessible and seems to work fine. there are many "upgrades" available to personalize.

550 is "everymans" heli - it fits in perfectly for guys that are moving up and others that normally fly larger helis that want something quick and simple, but still flies well.

my preference are longer blades - the align 550 and edge 553s on mine.

have fun!!

[Hoosiermo1]

Thanks for the input. I just got it a few minutes ago. I escaped work a bit early.
The box clearly shows the updates:
Helical main gear
600efl head
The blades are 520 but seem huge to me.
The manual is dated December 2011

[SargeAF]

Killer!

Can wait to get mine!

SargeAF

[sewerfly]

Your gonna love the 550 I have over 500 flights on mine and its still going strong.

[Hoosiermo1]

I was under the impression the tail grips would be black on this bird. Mine are silver.

[Hoosiermo1]

Here are some pics
Also how tight do you guys tighten the servos when using the rubber mountings. I've always had smaller helis and have never needed them.

[sewerfly]

Originally Posted by Hoosiermo1

Also how tight do you guys tighten the servos when using the rubber mountings. I've always had smaller helis and have never needed them.

Just snug them up but don't wrench them so you strip out the plastic.(you can put a little CA in the plastic works like lock tite) You can also leave out the rubber gromits if you want I used them on mine but others have suggested we don't need them as it makes it stiffer less play.

[Hoosiermo1]

What color tail grips are everyone else with a new AT model getting? I thought the updated grips were black. Am I wrong in this?

[1004ron]

Originally Posted by Hoosiermo1

What color tail grips are everyone else with a new AT model getting? I thought the updated grips were black. Am I wrong in this?

The tail box and tail grips on the latest version are beefier, and the blade grips are silver.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...=359882&page=4

[Hoosiermo1]

In the last picture you can see I haven't tightened the grommets down and smashed them. They still seem pretty firm. Is this ok?
I'm also going to start with the stock head for a few flight so I can feel the difference. (also if I crash I'd rather not break the dfc)

[1004ron]

Originally Posted by Hoosiermo1

In the last picture you can see I haven't tightened the grommets down and smashed them. They still seem pretty firm. Is this ok?

Something seems odd in the picture of the rubber grommets - the length of the brass ferrules is such that you can pull the screws up tight and there will be just a little compression of the grommet, and that way you wont see anything of the brass ferrule when tightened down - you can see a gap between the grommet and the frame and some of the brass ferrule, which indicates to me that the grommet isn't under any compression.

Maybe you haven't tightened the screws enough ? - the ferrules prevent over compression of the grommets, so don't be shy.