EPantera build

[Jermo]

Just a few pics to document the journey.


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[jbeech]

Good progress Jerry. Any problems along the way? Any tips to share?

[Jermo]

So far smooth. I did find that using a 1/8" blade bit from the inside did a nice clean job of removing the frame support. After drilling the frame for the motor mount, some of the holes were slightly off. Inserting a long 3mm bolt from the top (with some screws already installed) helps to "trim" the frame mount holes to better fit.

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[Jermo]

I'll verify the blade bit size

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[jbeech]

Do you mean a spade bit? Something like this . . .

[Jermo]

3/8"

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[jbeech]

I never tried a spade bit but now that you have mentioned it, it makes good sense that it would work nicely. Good tip!

[Jermo]

Progress, I need futaba servo arms of sufficient length. Thinking of going Al. . Debating if to go FBL. It might be better to get the platform operational before converting. On challenge to work out is balance. I'll be using two 5s FP3700mAH packs in series. The motor requires 4mm x 5mm mount bolts so I'll have to cut the bolts I purchased from Lowe's. I'm also looking for a canopy quick disconnect that works well with the Pantera. I'm also trying to work out the ESC mounting. I may have to cut the mounting tabs because the ESC is wider than the Pantera frame.


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[rfauske]

I mounted the ESC under the front radio tray and use the carbon bottom plate for the batteries.



Works fine and is tidy


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[Jermo]

how did you workout CG? I've moved the packs round on the bottom and can get a good CG, however, the weight of the model is very low such that I'm concerned about being able to flip/roll. I can't move the packs higher without tilting the mounts. Not complaining, just working out what the final design/configuration will be

[jbeech]

Don't worry about the low mass causing issues with flipping and rolling because it turns out to be a non-issue. Thus, Fauske has good advice regarding the new bottom plate. We created it expressly to make equipment placement more flexible. It's also part of why we favor larger diameter versus longer motor length since this gives more room beneath the motor. However, is also means trimming the front of the cooling shroud (to allow the battery to shift forward), which fortunately, is easy enough. Thus, don't discount what the bottom plate allows you to do with equipment layout.

Finally, we're expecting to wrap up production of our aluminum servo arm option soon (they're in transit to be anodized now). Another week or ten days, I think.

[Jermo]

Thanks John. That may just be good timing for me if the new arms will fit Futaba Servos. I'm not rushing the build as I want everything to be 100% within my wishes and by design. It's easier to learn from mistakes when decisions are specific and reason based.

Off the top of my head the outstanding items to buy/sort out:
1. Servo Arms

2. ESC Mounting - I like the Cooling Shroud firewall option but will have to trim/cut the mount tabs so I'm really thinking that over. If Mount it that way I'll pop some addition 1/8 holes for mounting/cable routing.

3. FBL or FB - not really wanting to commit extra money that doesn't return a comparable value - Planning FB right now.

4. Canopy Mounts - I've purchased very nice new cano canopies for both of my birds and would like a nicer mount setup than standard post to make it easier to get them on/off due to the pack setup. I'll have to remove the canopy to connect/disconnect flight packs.

5. Motor Work: Grind a flat on the Motor shaft - I'll do this right before I do a final mount of the motor. Shorten the mounting screws to 4 x 5 mm and I've added a split washer.

6. Misc - I want to add a cross member in the middle to re-enforce the motor mount area that's now unsupported. It seems to be a weak spot without an engine mount. Probably overkill/unnecessary.

I also will be doing an upgrade to my NPantera with the addition of a new Hex Starter Hub (2 screws). I'll need to grind a flat on the shaft for that.

[rfauske]

You can see how I mounted it here:
http://sdrv.ms/1hcXUTl

The only negative about mounting it there is that you will break the lipo and the esc if you go in front first with some speed, but that will always break stuff.

All you need to modify is to remove some of the firewall.

(the battery strap is single as it was only a test flight, and the battery also has a few strips of velcro on the underside)

Regarding FB/FBL, if you already have a gyro just do it FB, if you already have a FBL unit you can do a RNFBL conversion

[jbeech]

I'm all for learning of new ways to mount the canopy - let me know what you discover.

Futaba-compatible arms? Yes because ProModeler servos are compatible 25-spline.

Motor - I've changed my recommendation. Use just one set screw instead of two.

Additional brace - yes, it's unnecessary - especially if you add the bottom plate

Finally, mount the ESC on the side of the frame because it's quite a convenient location.

[rfauske]

Do you have an image of it mounted on the side of the frame ?


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[Jermo]

John, on my ESC the Capacitors are only supported by their leads and some shrink wrap. My instinct is to add epoxy or hot glue to bond them together and to the board. Should I need to replace/repair later it will be more difficult but by stabilizing them better I shouldn't have failures due to vibration breaking down the solder joints.. Thoughts?

[jbeech]

Attach a piece of 1/16" plywood to the side frames using a couple of screws (going into the mounting holes for the mixture servo). Attach the ESC with Velcro and presto you're ready to proceed with wiring because there's enough give in this means of attachment to isolate the unit well enough from vibration.

[rfauske]

Originally Posted by Jermo

John, on my ESC the Capacitors are only supported by their leads and some shrink wrap. My instinct is to add epoxy or hot glue to bond them together and to the board. Should I need to replace/repair later it will be more difficult but by stabilizing them better I shouldn't have failures due to vibration breaking down the solder joints.. Thoughts?

I have replaced one of mine caps and will use hot glue to secure mine. Thinking about removing the shrink and just shrink the caps and not the power leads.

[z_man_95]

Originally Posted by Jermo

John, on my ESC the Capacitors are only supported by their leads and some shrink wrap. My instinct is to add epoxy or hot glue to bond them together and to the board. Should I need to replace/repair later it will be more difficult but by stabilizing them better I shouldn't have failures due to vibration breaking down the solder joints.. Thoughts?

I noticed how loose they were while mounting too and was wondering/worrying about a fix. As I don't want anything outside the frame (aesthetics) I cut the tabs off, and trimmed the back of the receiver tray and can fit it perfectly inside the recess. I'll post a pic later if you want.

[Jermo]

Please post pics.. Most ESCs have the caps hanging like that. I was thinking if I trim the tabs I could mount it to the cooling shroud bulkhead on the forward side, however, considering the only thing to be mounted on that platform is battery I could put the esc/battery there, Probably better cooling and support for the caps.

Edit: I love my arizona regulator. I have the pin swtich with mine running on my nitro model.