RF reduction kit or RF shield

[Toadster25]

Does anyone know what the advantage of the resistor plug cap? I see they have RF kit with or without it. Do I need to buy that for my new Spectra G that I have ordered?

[NolanManley]

I have one on mine because it was a gift. I have my engine mounted with the cylinder facing the rear but, if I was to face it to the front I'd want the resistor cap WITH the braid shield on the plug wire for sure.
If you watch the build video produced by some great fellows here on HeliFreak you can see the RF tester only shows a small amount of RF on the stock red plastic plug cap. No where else is RF present. On my machine I do not have any RF anywhere. I like that feeling. ( I have the tester too )

[Dr_Fibinotchi]

Does anyone have assembly instructions on this? Mine didnt come with any kind of assemblly just the packing slip.


Thanks

Cody

[bigrcr]

Here is a "quick" step by step:

1-Mark the high tension wire with a Sharpie marker or similar against the red silicone boot.

2-Using a small tipped screwdriver and hemostats (needle nosed small pliers OK), lift the red boot away from the high tension wire and pull up on the "tang" until it disengages from the high tension wire.

3-Pull the high tension wire carefully out of the silicone red boot.

4-Using the hemostats and/or needle nosed pliers, GENTLY work the coiled wire with the "tang" out of the same side the high tension wire came out of. A little dish wash soap helps here to make it slide out (clean the soap off of the boot after you are finished!). Be careful in not to bend up this coiled wire and "tang"

5-Straighten up the coil and tang (make it 90 degrees again) if it got distorted at all.

5-Slide the heat shrink tubing toward the plug end of the shield so that it can be started over the wire and then slide the shield over the high tension wire until it is as far as you can get it against the coil.

6-At this time, it is best to see if the shield is too long and needs to be trimmed. Hold the shield against the coil and stretch the shield out down the wire so that it lays out and mark it if necessary to within 3/8" of the marked line from step 1. Trim as needed by removing the shield and cutting the shield with dykes (or whatever you have that will cut it).

7-Slide the shield all the way back on the high tension wire and secure it by sliding the first piece of heat shrink back up against the coil and heat shrinking it and applying a tie wrap.

8-Smooth the high tension wire along the high tension wire toward the plug end and secure with the other piece of heat shrink and tie wrap. Make sure that the shield is back from your marked line so that the end of the shield is back from the INSTALLED boot by 3/8", that was what the mark on the wire was for.

9-Carefully install the coiled end onto the high tension wire by piercing the high tension wire with the sharp end of the "tang". The original hole can also be used but take care that the "tang" goes into the center of the wire. Of course, the "tang" needs to be in the original location or pushed into the wire beside/close to the original hole.

10-Put a small amount (or rely on the previously applied) of dish wash soap or dielectric grease to the boot and slide the high tension wire with the coil back into the red boot. You may wish to slide this back together without the lube if you are concerned about having a water based product inside of the boot! The small amount of soap lube will dry and not cause a problem though.

11-Install the coil making sure to ground the tab on the coil end of the shield to the lug of the coil that has the metal lug.

That's it!