Ricks wire sheathing tutorial

[rdlohr]

I use Flexo Cleancut sheathing, but only because I bought a bunch of it years ago. I'm not sure if other brands are better or worse.

I put on the sheathing after the servos are installed unless I don't have good access to the ends.
I never do the receiver/fbl controller end on the heli. I do that end hanging, then plug it in.
See post #2 for example.

First step is mount all components and determine where you are going to run your wires. Run them all without sheathing first. Maybe even try to power it up if you are unsure how it works.

At the receiver/fbl controller end, mark the right length on the wires with a marker. Add servo extensions as needed. (I keep a bunch of 6" extensions on hand) Leave about one half inch of slack since it's very hard to make each wire the exact length. Leave more slack on longer runs since the wire sits a little differently with sheathing installed so things generally end up a bit shorter than you planned. Make sure there is a little bit of space above your receiver/fbl to take up the slack as necessary.

Now, pull the wires back out and let them dangle from the servos. Do one at a time. Measure to your marks with a ruler so you know how long the end product should be. You can splice wires under the sheathing so you can remove the extension plastic connectors if you want and shorten/lengthen any set of wires if you want. Realize splices will leave a small hump in the braid. Connectors leave a large hump. I remove the intercable connectors on small helis and leave them on larger helis. See post #3 for example. You can also shorten by installing new connectors if you have a hanson connector kit.

Having said all this, I avoid splicing if I can by bunching up wires a little and using the correct length extensions when possible. I don't leave 6 inches or more hanging around though. If you are going to splice, do it toward the middle of the run, not near a component or you could paint yourself into a corner if you screw up.

Pick the right size braid. I use 3/8" if a connector needs to be covered and 1/8" or 1/4" otherwise. Cut the braid to the proper length. Remove the connector if you want to use the smaller braid. Be very careful not to break off the little plastic tabs on the connector. Only bend them out as much as you have to with an exacto knife. Have extra connectors on hand in case you break one. Slide on the braid like an inch worm walks using your fingers to grab the wire underneath through the braid while the braid inches forward on the wire. When it is close to the servo, slide on two 3/4" length pieces of heat shrink (one for each end) with diameter just wide enough to cover the braid. I keep many sizes on hand (from Home Depot).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=dEw4xQO4u28

Optional: Put a flexible glue like Loctite G02 on the wire next to where it enters the servo and on the braid at the end where the shrink will be covering it. Move the shrink into place while turning it to distribute the glue evenly then carefully shrink it into place. Let dry for 30 minutes with the wire in the exact position you want it to stay. This will keep it from slipping around later.

Otherwise just shrink it and be OK with the wire showing on the ends and a little movement. I've often not glued it. Be careful not to heat the braid or component too much.

Now, reinstall the connector on the wire at the receiver/fbl end if you removed it. Do the shrink (and glue) the same way but this time with the wire hanging rather than plugged in .

After all cables are in place on the receiver/fbl, bunch up the braid just past the receiver/fbl to take up the little bit of slack you have. Use black ny-ties to hold braids in place.

If there seems to be tension on the group of wires plugging into the receiver/fbl, temporarily push the receiver/fbl and cables forward a half inch or inch bunching them up and use something to hold it in that position overnight. The intention is to train the wires to stay in that position. When you then allow the receiver/fbl unit to fall back into place, there should be no more tension.

Start over and do it again if you screw up on any wire.

Hope this helps.

More examples:

Sexy TREXY 500 Build:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=69894

Lovely Logo 400 Build:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...71#post4743971

Ravenous Rush 750 Build
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=507842

Rick

[rdlohr]

Install servo in heli and mark wire for length. Leave a about 1/2 inch extra or more for longer runs. You don't want to be too short, but a little long can accounted for.

Wiring cut to length and stripped, ready to crimp on new contacts.

Crimps done using Hanson crimper, contacts and connector shell.


Remember to put on both heat shrink tubes before putting on the connector shell. Connector on, ready to prepare for heat shrink.

Flexible glue applied to wires and sheathing all to go under heat shrink. Snip off excess braid as needed.

Completed servo wiring. Wipe off excess glue.

You now have protected wiring that looks great too.
Hope this helps!
Rick

[rdlohr]

Example showing the hump in the braid from a servo extension connector:


Example of tail servo that I put the shrink on after it was mounted. Notice the strap down holes Charley located strategically right next to the servo so that a ty wrap could be put there.


Example of a component that I completely finished off the heli:


Example of a elevator servo I shrink wrapped on the heli that I would have been better off doing off the heli. I was too lazy to unmount it. It is OK this way and even though it looks like it will hit the elevator assembly, it will not. I could have done a nicer job off the heli. It was important to shrink the wrap with the cable fixed at the proper angle.



Notice I have the VBAR pushed way down on the platform to help force me to make the wires long enough. It will probably be shifted up a half inch or more in the final version. Also notice that when I put on Velcro platforms like that, I always cover the whole area so that I can place components anywhere on them.


Rick

[kwjsimpson]

That looks amazing Rick! Thanks for sharing this and feeding my new addiction! Well done

[rdlohr]

Originally Posted by kwjsimpson

That looks amazing Rick! Thanks for sharing this and feeding my new addiction! Well done

Another one addicted! Awesome!

Glad to help.

Rick

[DominicD]

Very nice Rick. I gave up on braid a few years ago, now I just heatshrink the whole wire, give it a try next time

[rdlohr]

I did. I don't like it that way. Too stiff.

I actually just used shrink on my ESC power lines and after two days ripped it off and sheathed them. I'm happy with it now.

It's a hobby, whatever you like is best.

Rick

[DominicD]

You prefer the 1/8 or 1/4 stuff ? I always found the 1/4" stuff to suck for bending, the 1/8" stuff does a nice job of flexing with the wire but its difficult to find anyone who has it.

[rdlohr]

Originally Posted by DominicD

You prefer the 1/8 or 1/4 stuff ? I always found the 1/4" stuff to suck for bending, the 1/8" stuff does a nice job of flexing with the wire but its difficult to find anyone who has it.

I size it based on what I am wrapping. I may be talking about something totally different than you. When I think shrink wrap, I think skin tight. Are you talking bigger? I never tried that. Post some examples please.

Rick

[DominicD]

Take this image of yours for example



That is an unnatural state of that wrapped wire. Evidence of that is if you unplug the wires they spring back to being straight, not staying in that bent position. If you have enough of these they will actually pull on your mounting device... which is a problem if it's something like a BX. Using a smaller dia wrap you get slightly better bending proprieties.

[rdlohr]

I'm confused now. Are you talking braid or shrink? With any braid, regardless of size, it tries to keep its shape and you have to account for that on sensors and and anywhere where you stress a mounting point. I always account for that.

With the VBAR main guts its not critical as long as you don't stress anything. The real issue would with the sensor and I have mounted it with enough slack to take care of that concern.

However, even that picture is not the finished state. The finished version has the wires held in place with a ty wrap on a spacer that holds them where I want them.

Post some of your pictures.

Rick

[DominicD]

I was talking about braid. But I think I was talking about 1/8 or even 1/16" stuff. I bought some really thin braid once, it was a royal PITA to get on the wire, but it ended up super flexible (couldn't find a picture of the heli i had it on). Here is my wiring with the heatshrink method. I've been trying new wiring schemes for years, still haven't found one i really like, but i hate this one less than the other ways.

[rdlohr]

OK. Yes, I've tried the thinner stuff but I found it too much of a pita too.


Hey Dom, question for you. My Kontronics ESC BEC calls out using two servo wires to feed the power to the VBAR for anything above 2A which makes sense to me. The extra copper will help handle the higher currents. Is there any reason way I shouldn't run both servo wires through one torroid ring? I hate to use a ring on each.

Rick

[DominicD]

Sounds fine to me.

[rdlohr]

Originally Posted by DominicD

Sounds fine to me.

Cool. I'll do that.
Rick

[DominicD]

Make sure you do both, doing just 1 is completely useless.

[rdlohr]

Originally Posted by DominicD

Make sure you do both, doing just 1 is completely useless.

What? Did you misread my question?

[DominicD]

I read it correctly, was just supplying additional information.

[rdlohr]

Originally Posted by DominicD

I read it correctly, was just supplying additional information.

OK, I put both through the same ring. It was a tight squeeze. I hate those rings. Wish I could talk myself out of using them.

Rick

[DominicD]

I never use em, but I don't have any Kronics. I don't trust any BECs these days. a Rx pack is just so easy for me.