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700 Class Nitro Helicopters 700 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 03-05-2009, 06:18 AM   #21
Mercuriell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marshdave View Post
quick uk do alloy cnc servo arms for futaba & jr bang on the money real quality
Now they need to do a swash for the T700
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:51 PM   #22
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Default Kasama head assembly

Where did you get the canopy mounts that are shown in the pic of the head? Jim
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Old 03-20-2009, 05:41 PM   #23
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I used a couple of QuickUK canopy mounts at the back so only two thumbscrews but nice and secure !
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:43 PM   #24
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You don't seem to have much luck John, did you get more troublefree flights since your last update?
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:09 PM   #25
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The T700 is running very sweet now with its QUK servo wheels & clutch and Kasama head thx
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Old 04-11-2009, 09:24 PM   #26
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The T700 is running very sweet now with its QUK servo wheels & clutch and Kasama head thx
Bit off topic. Apologies.

I've fitted my QUK clutch and flew yesterday and today but have two issues. (1) I installed it into a used (10 gallon) clutch bell but it still grabs like crazy at idle. Last night, I rechecked the clutch centering (G-Force mounts) and it looks perfect. After the bell warms up at the end of a flight, no grabbing at all. I'm assuming it will wear in but it's really hard to deal with for now. (2) The starter one-way is not consistently engaging and I have to spin the starter several times before the engine turns over. Not sure about this one.

Any thoughts?
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:00 PM   #27
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Bit off topic. Apologies.

I've fitted my QUK clutch and flew yesterday and today but have two issues. (1) I installed it into a used (10 gallon) clutch bell but it still grabs like crazy at idle. Last night, I rechecked the clutch centering (G-Force mounts) and it looks perfect. After the bell warms up at the end of a flight, no grabbing at all. I'm assuming it will wear in but it's really hard to deal with for now. (2) The starter one-way is not consistently engaging and I have to spin the starter several times before the engine turns over. Not sure about this one.

Any thoughts?
There's certainly less clearance with the QUK clutch and mine was a bit smelly for x2-3 flights but is fine now - that was also in ~ 10 gallon clutch. Your clutch bell couldn't be a bit out of round at all ? - no secret chicken dances you'd like to admit to ?
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:33 AM   #28
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Your clutch bell couldn't be a bit out of round at all ? - no secret chicken dances you'd like to admit to ?
Humm, not that I'm aware. But who knows what my helis are up to out in the garage during the long nights... The Align clutch that I pulled out looks wonderful with a very light but even wear pattern on both sides. I've carefully put it away in case the the idle grabbing doesn't go away.
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:35 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbdane View Post
Bit off topic. Apologies.

I've fitted my QUK clutch and flew yesterday and today but have two issues. (1) I installed it into a used (10 gallon) clutch bell but it still grabs like crazy at idle. Last night, I rechecked the clutch centering (G-Force mounts) and it looks perfect. After the bell warms up at the end of a flight, no grabbing at all. I'm assuming it will wear in but it's really hard to deal with for now. (2) The starter one-way is not consistently engaging and I have to spin the starter several times before the engine turns over. Not sure about this one.

Any thoughts?
I have the same combo. G Force adjustable mounts, clutch bearing block, and Quick UK clutch. IT's very very grabby and hard to get the heli to idle. Sometimes it will idle down and then "reverse spin" which makes for a very freaky sound in the geartrain.

I've just resigned myself to holding the head until I'm ready to let the heli spool up. Adjusting needles is really a chore too. With the above mods, combined with Kasama main thrusted bearing blocks, and the Kasama head this sucker is hard to spool down. I get it as low as I can go in TH and then have to "drag" the blades for about 20 secs, letting my palm drag the blades as they pass, but not too much to tip the heli. Out towards the tips as the headbutton I can't get enough torque on it to stop the head.

Overall the Kasama head is flying well, but I'm getting some porpousing/ballooning in fast backwards flight, but need to "refine" my trim in my 12x from "4 steps" to 1 step, and that might help. No interaction on swash so that's not it.

The quality of the head is awesome, along with how you can program it for your flying styel. It's faster IMO than the stock head and will track a bit better even in most aggressive form. Especially with Axial rolls
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:27 AM   #30
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fixed about 95% of the porposing with a shorter flybar. I had this shorter flybar in with a group of 90 parts I aquired this past year. I think it's a 500 or 520mm flybar.

Tracks alot better now and still very very agile. I would caution anyone NOT to use the closest hole "IN" on the flybar carrier to mount the link ball. IT's either 4 or 1, I can't remember. #2 or #3 would probably be best with teh stock 570mm flybar. OR you can get a shorter flybar. In my mind anyway, running a shorter flybar might help save some energy on the head as the heli doesn't have to spin the paddles as far/fast compared to a longer flybar rod. Normally you'd lose some cyclic authority, but with the more aggressive settings of this head, I really can't tell, as it still is fast, but tracks so much better wtih the shorter flybar
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:37 PM   #31
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btw I managed to put my 700 into a tree the day I got back from IRCHA. I bent up my "mystery" flybar, which I have no idea what kit it came out of. Came with a big lot of spares I bought from a Freya guy to resell as I just wanted the Auroro/Avant head he had in there. Anyway, the stock 700 flybar was too long with how I had my head programmed with the most agressive flybar carrier setting. That mystery flybar was perfect. I tried a 490 kasama flybar and that was too short. The 520mm Kasama flybar is just about perfect. Good FF tracking, and tracks well through maneuvers. Still a wee bit tippy in hover though, so ideally maybe another 10mm length would do.

If I went to a less agressive setting on the flybar carrier it could probably be ok with the stock 700 flybar, but I feel I get less drag off the shorter flybar, and the head is alot more locked in yet more agressive than a stock 700 head. More like my Aurora or Outrage helis for sure. Just wanted to update you guys in case you want to try this head and are wondering about how to set it up etc...
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Old 11-29-2009, 08:47 PM   #32
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does it matter which way the x brace faces on the Kasama blocks for the Trex 700, the distance looks the same whether it is front or back side.
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Old 11-30-2009, 12:16 AM   #33
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I see they have to face the rear,
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:05 AM   #34
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picked up a 2nd Kasama head used . Had to do grip bearings as the older ones were getting notchy.

Tip for these is to bang them out and then heat the grips to get the new ones in. Would take way too much force to get them in and not damage bearings.

I'm going to try the 2nd flybar position from nearest mid and try a stock 700 fly bar this time. I'm thinking if you use the Inner most/aggressive one, that a 540mm flybar would be ideal. the Kasama 520 works pretty well, but is still a bit too tipy in hover etc... while the stock 570mm trex is too pitchy in flight. The 540 would probably be right in the middle, and what my "mystery" flybar I bent up was.
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:15 AM   #35
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About to spool up the Kasama head on my 7 hundie this morning. I hope I built it right!!

If the head preforms as well as it is built and looks, gonna love this thing.

Eric
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Old 05-02-2010, 12:59 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by CoronaL View Post
The 540 would probably be right in the middle, and what my "mystery" flybar I bent up was.
For the Freya there are three different part #'s available:

0404-347 490 mm
0404-348 535 mm
0404-711 555 mm
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:12 PM   #37
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nice heli
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