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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 08-28-2009, 07:46 AM   #21
nightflyr
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Sweet fix.
Two questions;

1. What are your measurements for the vertical positioning of the shaft within the blocks?

2. If (more likely when) I crash, and the shaft is damaged requiring replacement, will the loctite 680 release or will the bearing have to be replaced as well?


Scotty
I used the same measurements as the block above it, and to release the loctite 680 apply heat and it will release

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Old 08-28-2009, 08:29 AM   #22
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oppsss my bad,
I misunderstood the question.....position is fixed when you install the main gear and one way bearing...you'll also need to get the longer 600 E main shaft for it to work

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Old 08-28-2009, 06:15 PM   #23
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Default Swash Servo Install

For most not all, when installing the cyclic servo's you find one if not two issues that need to be corrected.

1) The front servo's hit each other.

2) You'll find that your linkage to the bell cranks is on a angle.

I'm sure there must be servo's that will work with out having these issues, but in my case as like most I had both to deal with.

So what to do???.....

You'll need to space the servo's out from the frames to gain clearance and get your bell crank linkages to line up straighter.

There are several ways to do this...

A) Fabricate a set of spacers

B) Use washers (not my first choice, but it will work)

C) Locate and purchase the correct height standoff spacers

D) And my solution, use what they gave you in the kit, the servo nut plates.
Providing you do not require them for your choice of servo's used.

They happened to be the exact height I needed to space my Hyperions away from the frames and line up my bell crank linkages

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Old 08-29-2009, 06:47 AM   #24
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Default General Assembly ( Part Prep)

I have found like most others when assembling the 600 ESP you will need to clean the parts prior to assembly with loctite.

I found all the machine screws have a film of oil on them which if left will prevent the loctite from doing its job.

Also any parts that have been tapped seem to have a residue in them.

I've found the fastest easiest product to use is automotive break cleaner, it dry fast and leaves no residue.

But any solvent will do the job.

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Old 08-30-2009, 03:00 AM   #25
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Thumbs up Servos that fit 600ESP without shims

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For most not all, when installing the cyclic servo's you find one if not two issues that need to be corrected.
1) The front servo's hit each other.
2) You'll find that your linkage to the bell cranks is on a angle.
Some servos will fit the 600ESP without shims:
I was pleasantly surprised when changing from DS821 (shims needed) to Savox SC-1258TG (no shims needed).
Several posts online have said the Savox SC-1258TG is the same as Align 610, I don't know, I have not seen Align 610 in person.
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Old 08-30-2009, 07:49 AM   #26
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Default 600 ESP head setup

This is the most complete information I could locate on the subject...

Quite a few people have had questions about the ESP head setup, so I wrote this up. I'm no wizard at this (its only my second heli), but this procedure worked well for me. Here's what I did (and the reasoning), I hope it helps:
Basically, I worked from the servos up. I began with the linkage lengths all according to the manual, but most of them ended up significantly different from the manuals settings. Most of them shorter.
Before you start
UNPLUG THE MOTOR. Or otherwise ensure that you cannot accidentally get it powered.
Radio setup
I assume you have the servos connected, the correct swash mixing set up, and set your trims and subtrims to 0.

Program the normal pitch curve to 50,50,50,50,50, and idle up to the usual 0,25,50,75,100. This allows you to work on the head at 0 collective pitch, without being concerned about the stick location. The idle up curve allows you to reach the full range of collective, with the flick of a switch.

From here on, assume the radio is on, and the normal (50%) pitch curve is active. So you're at center stick, 0 pitch.
Servos
Wheel installation
Begin the setup by getting the servos, bellcranks, and their links on correctly. The align 8 hole wheels have a different angle between the spline and each pair of holes. All 8 positions are different! Even a 180 flip of the wheel ends up with a different angle of the holes to the spline. You need to choose the hole pair that lines up the wheel the best. What you're looking for, is the two hole/ball locations that the links attach to are at right angles to the line from the servo shaft to the bellcrank shaft. Install the wheel using the hole pair that are closest to perfectly square, then use subtrim to tweak it the last little bit. It should look something like this.


Bellcrank links
Now you need to set the link length from the servo wheels to the bellcranks. The two front servos are done the same way. Leave one link off, and adjust the other so that the bellcrank is oriented correctly. This picture is fuzzy, but it shows what you're looking for: The elevator servo shaft (rear servo, between the frames), the bellcrank output ball, the bellcrank shaft, and the center of the sighting hole in the frames should all be in a straight line parallel to the top of the frames. Once you have set one of the two link lengths between the servo wheel and the bellcrank, the other one is easy. Just attach the servo end, and adjust the length so that it pops on the bellcrank ball without binding. If you want, you can then verify that the two links are the same length. If you got the servo wheel square and the bellcrank square, they have to be equal.


Elevator arm links
The rear servo is done in a similar fashion. It's just a bit frustrating, because it's hard to reach in there! Leave one link off, and adjust the other such that the elevator arms pivot appears in the center of the sighting hole. When you've got the first link set so the arm is in the correct position, just adjust the other link to fit, like you did with the front servos. Again, you can double check the link lengths to verify they are equal.
This diagram shows the servo and bellcrank links all set up...The angle on the servo wheel looks off, but it should be 90 degrees too.

Head linkages
Swash level
The elevator arm pivot should be centered in the sight hole. This fixes the swash height because the elevator arm has no length adjustment. The only thing you can do, is level the swash at the height set by the elevator arm. Do this by adjusting the two links from the bellcranks. Personally, I like a swash leveling tool that looks like this. It sits on top of the swash.

Pop the swash leveler on, and adjust the length of the links from the two bellcranks so the swash is level. Each leg of the tool should just barely touch the arm on the swash that is supporting it. Of course, the tool requires the upper parts of the head be removed. So while you've got it apart, flip the switch on the radio and move the collective to full up and down. In those positions, adjust the servo endpoints so you have a level swash there as well.

Install head
Put the upper parts of the head on, and put the radio back on normal curve. 0 pitch!

Upper arms
Now, the swash is level and its height is fixed. The flybar seesaw height is also fixed (you can't move the head block)! Consider the long links from the swash to the upper mixing arms (the arms that pivot on the seesaw). You cannot move the hardware at either end of these links up or down. So the next thing to do, is adjust the length of the links from the swash to the upper mixing arms that pivot on the seesaw. Set the links so the upper arms are level. During this step, you must keep the flybar level. I remove the links from the cage down to the lower arms, and put a flybar clamp on, to hold it level. It's easy to make a flybar clamp with a rod and a couple alligator clips. I don't have a picture of this step, but its pretty simple. Just get the upper arms level by adjusting the links from the swash up to the long end of the upper arms (with the flybar level).

Lower arms
The lower arms are next. The "swash driver" links from the lower arms down to the swash plate are fixed length, and should be on. Take one link from a lower arm up to the flybar cage off. And adjust the other link (from the flybar cage to the other lower arm) , until the lower arms (pivoting on the slider) are level. While you're doing this, you have to be sure that the flybar cage is level. This adjustment may require a few iterations, because the slider moves up and down as you adjust the link length. But theres only one right length … when you get it, it should look like this.


Now adjust the link on the other side to match. This ones easier, because the slider height is fixed by the other arm and wont move around. In fact, the arm should be held level with the first one, and all you have to do is set the link length so it pops on. While you're doing this, you still have to be sure that the flybar cage is level. When you're done, the two lower links should be level and line up with each other at both ends. Like this...


Grip links
Finally, you have to set the short links from the upper mixing arms to the blade grips. Again, you have to ensure the flybar cage is level during the adjustment. However you do it, eyeball, pitch gauge, laser beams, electron microscope... the objective is to adjust the links so the blades have zero pitch. You ARE still on the normal curve with 0 pitch right?

Now you can go on to setting up the mixing percentages in your radio, so you get the desired collective and cyclic pitch ranges.

That's it.
Heres another picture of the finished job. The viewpoint is a little bit high in this picture, so the output ball on the bellcrank appears to be above the line of the sight hole/bellcrank shaft/servo shaft... but its not. With the view a bit lower, it's right on line. parallax.


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Old 08-30-2009, 08:05 AM   #27
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I think I'm just going to ship my 600 over to you nightflyr!!!!
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:38 AM   #28
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I think I'm just going to ship my 600 over to you nightflyr!!!!
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Old 08-30-2009, 09:42 AM   #29
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Default Front TT Gear Replacement

A very complete video showing what you need to do to replace your damaged front TT gears.

http://video.helifreak.com/tmp/bf1b9...Bevelgear2.wmv
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Old 08-30-2009, 12:39 PM   #30
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This thread should really be a sticky.
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Old 08-30-2009, 01:03 PM   #31
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This thread should really be a sticky.
I pm'd Finless about it, why don't you try?

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Old 08-30-2009, 03:15 PM   #32
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Will Do
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:15 PM   #33
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Made this a sticky by popular demand!

Enjoy,
Bob
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:12 AM   #34
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Something you new ESP owners should be aware of....

When installing your bell cranks AFTER you finish you'll notice 4 shim washers that are not mentioned in the assembly manual.

If you push/pull on the bell crank shaft, some if not most of you will notice side slop.....and guess what those mystery shims are for.......

depending on how much lateral movement you have will depend how many shims you'll need.

nightflyr
Are you talking about the aleron levers/control shaft/elevator arm assembly (page 10 in the manual)? Where exactly do the shims go? Could you perhaps post a picture?

I am about to start on this part of the build, but I don't see anything in the manual called a "bell crank" so I'm not sure what you are referring to.
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:47 AM   #35
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Are you talking about the aleron levers/control shaft/elevator arm assembly (page 10 in the manual)? Where exactly do the shims go? Could you perhaps post a picture?

I am about to start on this part of the build, but I don't see anything in the manual called a "bell crank" so I'm not sure what you are referring to.
Your on the correct page, you use the shims between the control shaft collar and side frame bearing if you have sideways play in the control shaft. How many or few shims you'll need depends on the amount of play you have.

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Old 09-04-2009, 12:32 PM   #36
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Thanks. I really appreciate the effort you put into this thread. Very helpful.
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:37 PM   #37
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We're all here to help

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Old 09-05-2009, 03:43 PM   #38
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Default Nice work nightflyr

Nice work, nightflyr. There is a lot of important information for my build i haven't found anywhere else yet. It would be nice if you organized it on the first page like in the 500 FAQ thread. Remember this thread will be long, and it will be difficult for a n00b to find the information needed without reading a lot of unnecessary stuff. But it's the right kind of information you are giving, so keep up the good work
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Old 09-05-2009, 03:51 PM   #39
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Nice work, nightflyr. There is a lot of important information for my build i haven't found anywhere else yet. It would be nice if you organized it on the first page like in the 500 FAQ thread. Remember this thread will be long, and it will be difficult for a n00b to find the information needed without reading a lot of unnecessary stuff. But it's the right kind of information you are giving, so keep up the good work
Thank you, but this all comes from everyone here on the freak.

I learned the same way by asking questions from knowledgeable people and found the correct answers.

Now to pass it along...
I do not know how to shift things around here on this sticky, so any help you can give.....
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Old 09-05-2009, 06:13 PM   #40
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In case anyone building a 600 ESP is wondering, the Align DS610 servo cases (pitch and aleron) have ample clearance without frame spacers. That said, I used the supplied CF frame spacers anyway to minimize the angle between the servo wheels and the "bell cranks". Fortunately, Align supplies plenty of hardware.

This beast is looking sexyer by the minute! All I have left to do is mount the tail boom assembly and install the motor and main gears then she'll be mechanically complete (I hope!).

One thing is baffling me however - where to mount the ESC? I want to mount it near the motor in a good airflow path, but the damn battery and motor leads are so short that I can't see a good way to do it. Anyone have suggestions?
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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.

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