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Old 01-11-2017, 02:50 PM   #1
muaymendez
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Default Gy401 too sensitive

Quick question. I'm new to helis and just picked up a pretty lightly used to raptor 30. Trying to set up everything. The gyro. Seems to be moving the rudder ever so slightly while the heli is stationary, engine off. Is it too sensitive. I had to change receiver from Futaba to a spektrum dx6.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:17 PM   #2
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On that gyro make sure there is
No sub trim at all on the rudder.
then yu have to set it up on rate mode.
so that the tail holds while hovering
Then switch to HH.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:38 PM   #3
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Not sure what others will say, but when I started 9 long years ago (pre-flybarless gyros) with a semi-reliable Blade 400/401 ... that heli/gyro combo was already 10 years old. NOT a good place to start in the hobby in 2017.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slyster View Post
Not sure what others will say, but when I started 9 long years ago (pre-flybarless gyros) with a semi-reliable Blade 400/401 ... that heli/gyro combo was already 10 years old. NOT a good place to start in the hobby in 2017.
Why? Thousands of people learned to fly with the 401 and when set up properly, it works well, especially for someone just starting out.

Contrary to your belief, you don't need the latest and greatest and the higher level of complexity newer gear may introduce. Starting out is hard enough without knowing terms, systems, etc...

You seem to have forgotten what it was like to be a newbie. Encouraging new people goes a lot further than discouraging them and I see quite a bit of the latter these days.

Muaymendez, have you seen Finless's 401 setup videos? If not, they're worth a look.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:00 PM   #5
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Well.. yes in fact I do remember learning on a Blade 400 with a 401 gyro.. 40+ crashes in 2008 and God only knows how much $$$. I was thinking these days things have progressed to the point we have the small RTF electrics that can self level and even crash with minimal damage. IMO it's like someone who wants to get a good start in computers buying an Apple II. I can't be the only one who thinks like this. Man how I wish we had available what we had today 9 years ago.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:01 PM   #6
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I'm not sure what his symptom is. Is the control too sensitive? Add some expo. Wag? Lower the gain.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:01 PM   #7
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It depends on how much suffering and money you want to go through.


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Old 01-11-2017, 09:11 PM   #8
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Guys I'm a Beleive in learning the hard way. I'm not a writer. Progress will not diminish just slow down due to broken parts. This is why I went with a used heli. I wanted to learn simplicity first. Like riding a motorcycle or driving a truck. New bikes come with anti lock brakes and traction control. New trucks are automatic. What happens when these advances are not available or they fail. Knowing what to do in a case where the gray falls is attractive to me. So I'm guessing the answer to my question is reset the go and take any subtrim out then go for a hover and adjust as needed?
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david426 View Post
I'm not sure what his symptom is. Is the control too sensitive? Add some expo. Wag? Lower the gain.
I believe he is talking about that slow 'creep' you get when you turn on the
rx.....as mentioned, think a trim has been put in somewhere, that shouldn't
have. I had that happen a few times to me.

And yep, the 401 was standard equipment on my helis from somewhere
around late 90s till 2011, even after I went flybarless. Great gyro for sure.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:54 PM   #10
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I agree with Skiddz....
Some people have a limited budget (as a beginner).
Some people just need to learn to hover,fly circuits (401 will do that).
a 401 back in the day for me was more than enough,i was able to do circuits,sport fly and in the later years was able to do mild 3D with it.
Soooooo....whats wrong with the 401 in terms of learning???????
Remember,you still have to fly the heli regardless what equipment you use...
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:48 PM   #11
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Default Futaba has a tech site for down loading instruction's

They also have added a simple addendum a while back - with a few more tip's.

The 401 is simple - bullet proof and reliable. Basic and does the job just fine . When learning or into basic aerobatics you simply cannot buy the game no matter how much A/I or bail out features you purchase. You never learn or progress.

Save the $ and keep it simple & FUNN !!!

I have 5 of em, and even a imitation on a 450 flying wet squirrel. Never had one problem - Even have that on a Original DX6

The only time one was questionable - when it was observed absolutely powdered - believe they put a new case on it.

On a Raptor 30 ? You are in for a BLAST ! Cherish it - and SAY No! GET AWAY !
Low operating cost's. Seems to be a real Niche for em if you ever get to a auction.
They get pretty nutty - don't blame em either- Love EM !
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:06 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muaymendez View Post
Guys I'm a Beleive in learning the hard way. I'm not a writer. Progress will not diminish just slow down due to broken parts. This is why I went with a used heli. I wanted to learn simplicity first. Like riding a motorcycle or driving a truck. New bikes come with anti lock brakes and traction control. New trucks are automatic. What happens when these advances are not available or they fail. Knowing what to do in a case where the gray falls is attractive to me. So I'm guessing the answer to my question is reset the go and take any subtrim out then go for a hover and adjust as needed?
This,/\ /\ /\ No sub trim, or trim. Set the horn on in RM as close to 90 deg as poss and the adjust control rod so when the blades are folded you have 8mm between the tips with correcting pitch for starters. If it hovers with only slight drift in RM your close enough. If the tail servo is very old consider a new one. The potentiometers in the servo may be going bad. Recheck setup after you get the head speed where you like it.
Gain too high and a combination of noisy buzzing servos can cause movement. Outrage helis always had tight links when new and had to break in, the servos would buzz just setting there trying to center and the gain had to be kept low during break in.
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipboy View Post
I agree with Skiddz....
Some people have a limited budget (as a beginner).
I agree.. and using a 19 year old heli with probably very limited parts support is going to cost $1000's compared to a modern small RTF. Think of that one first crash... parts probably only available from Japan.
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:34 AM   #14
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Most importantly, get some help locally!
As a beginner you are guaranteed to crash within seconds if your heli is not set up correctly, and even with a perfectly set up machine that probability is high.
To reduce that probability tremendously, get a simulator. My recommendation would be neXt, for the simple reason that you can download it for free. With that free download you have to restart the simulator every two minutes, but that takes only seconds. Trust me, you won't be able to fly for 2 minutes straight for quite a while anyway, and once you are, you're good to go out and try it in the real world.
The only thing you have to buy will be a USB adapter cable to connect your radio to your computer.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:08 AM   #15
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Also chk your transmitter monitor to make sure there isn't any rudder input. It's possible that your gimble isn't zeroing.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muaymendez View Post
Guys I'm a Beleive in learning the hard way. I'm not a writer. Progress will not diminish just slow down due to broken parts. This is why I went with a used heli. I wanted to learn simplicity first. Like riding a motorcycle or driving a truck. New bikes come with anti lock brakes and traction control. New trucks are automatic. What happens when these advances are not available or they fail.
I was you about 2-3 years ago. Then I had to rebuild and tune some flybar heads. That is an art that doesn't really carry over. Parts are hard to find and so is help. And in the end it doesn't fly as well as FBL.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:53 AM   #17
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If it's creeping while the engine is not running, you likely have some trim, or sub trim set. Check your tx please.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:47 PM   #18
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The gy401 needs to be initialized while its in hh mode to work correctly . This sets the neutral position . Then you need to mechanically adjust the tail linkage so that there's minimum tail drift while hovering on rm.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:12 PM   #19
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Seaview Rotary Wings is just over the Verrazano Bridge at Calvert Vaux Park in Brooklyn. This is an RC helicopter club and has plenty of guys that can help you. PM me so I can set you up for a visit.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:20 PM   #20
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Start with zero trim and zero subtrim. Setup the neutral point to have the servo arm as close to 90 degrees to the servo as you can get it, BUT DO NOT SUBTRIM IT TO 90! From here you can setup your tail linkage to give you slight pitch on the tail blades to counter the torque. Some people will say to hover it in rate mode and adjust the linkage till you get zero drift. I would suggest watching the Finless Bob videos, and getting as much help in person as you can.
I learned on a futaba 401 10 years ago and it worked fine. I flew it on the tail for quite a few years and I feel that the added complexity of that combined with a flybar makes you a better pilot and more proficient at getting a perfect mechanical setup. Good luck!
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