one more build question

[SandMan123]

Okay, on the torque tube tail, you can push the tail all the way against the gear set in the frame so that's it's tight right? In other words, you don't have to set the gear mesh like with the motor right?

[Mikgrn]

Yea push it in all the way, then back it out just a hair.

[yang_loo]

Originally Posted by SandMan123

Okay, on the torque tube tail, you can push the tail all the way against the gear set in the frame so that's it's tight right? In other words, you don't have to set the gear mesh like with the motor right?

dont make it tigth

[torana74]

Sandman, you do have to check for mesh!! Very important. I set mine with the vey slightest amount of backlash(almost zero). If your mesh is too tight, it will causes vibes, premature gear wear , extra load etc etc,, and same if too loose. The manual points out .1mm of play is i recall. Take your time to get it right and you'll be a happy camper Once done once or twice, it's a walk in the park to know the "right" spot. Usually if you get the teeth to form a "L" at the edges you will be in the ballpark

Vas

[caralmar]

Originally Posted by torana74

Sandman, you do have to check for mesh!! Very important. I set mine with the vey slightest amount of backlash(almost zero). If your mesh is too tight, it will causes vibes, premature gear wear , extra load etc etc,, and same if too loose. The manual points out .1mm of play is i recall. Take your time to get it right and you'll be a happy camper Once done once or twice, it's a walk in the park to know the "right" spot. Usually if you get the teeth to form a "L" at the edges you will be in the ballpark

Vas

Vas, thanks for your help on this topic. I have the same problem/question and now that you bring it up, perhaps this is the source of my vibration on the vert. stabilizer. The vibration is worse at higher RPM. Main blades are tracking perfectly and all bearings are good.

I suspect my front TT gear mesh may be a little too tight. I've backed it off "a hair", but its really hard to know exactly where this thing should be. You have a pic of this "L" shape you're talking about? I'm not following you, and I've been staring at these gears for a few minutes now! I hope its not like those 3D art puzzles that you have to cross your eyes to see...

Is there such a thing as 0.1mm paper that we can use to stick in there?

This was one of my gripes with the Gaui and an area I suggested to improve. On the Align helis, you don't have to contend with TT gear mesh...it just puts the gear where it needs to be. The boom is also keyed so you don't have to put a level to your vert/hor stabilizers to make sure they are set correctly.... but oh well, these are minor things!

Thanks Vas!

[joe1l]

I pushed it tight. Then spun the head around to make sure it moved smooth. Looks like i will have to check that tomorrow.

[g-bru]

This is important fella's!

I had always known mine was a little tight, but flew with it anyway. All had been good till I tried piro-flips! Through the 3rd flip the heli made a HORRIBLE noise, my initial thoughts was boom strike, hit TH got her the right way up and had a pretty hard auto to terra firma. Lucky for me only damage was skids, boom, TT, tail fin and tail blades.

Post mortem crash analysis - stripped crown gear and TT gear.

Lesson learned!

G


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[torana74]

Originally Posted by caralmar

You have a pic of this "L" shape you're talking about? I'm not following you, and I've been staring at these gears for a few minutes now! I hope its not like those 3D art puzzles that you have to cross your eyes to see...

here's my terrific computer drawing skills in action LOL
ok it's a backwards L

wrong1


wrong2



correct




Obviously is easiest to explain in person but will try with type.

First thing, have a look at the rear tail case gears as they are the same and check the amount of backlash. You will notice that there is a most minimal amount but it's there. That amount of backlash should be on the front ones. Now in saying that,it is very hard to tell exactly what each tail's setup is like but 95% of the Gaui tails i've experienced have had the correct amount of backlash. I have had one which i shimmed to get to my liking though.

Basically what we are looking for is the smoothest(no binding) yet most teeth contact.
The very very very slightest amount of play.

Knowing about how to set these things imho is a very important skill to have, especially with helis as the more finely tuned, the better they get.Same with motor pinion/gear meshing. Also will find that on alot of higher end helis, the user has to shim/adjust gears to get the precise meshing.

Is there such a thing as 0.1mm paper that we can use to stick in there?

I'm sure there is somewhere , but just look at 0.1mm as meaning that it's there but tiny

I have thought about your keying the boom comments and guess quite simply it can be done via a pin in one of the boom holder clamps(ie, short screw like in the tail case) but the only negative i see doing it that way, would be the very thing we are talking about here. How to guarrantee the perfect meshing. Then again, the rear ones seem to have a good success rate.

Even so, it still helps to check for one's self as nothing should be taken for granted

Hope this helps some

Vas

[terrabit]

When I set any gearmesh I don't attempt to measure it visually. I move the gears back and forth and feel for a marginally perceivable bit of play, or slop if you will. I also check it at several points in the rotation of the gear to accommodate any imperfections in molding or machining. You might also listen for the desired gap between the teeth tapping each other.

[SandMan123]

As far as the L method goes, it looks like the gears only form a perfect L when pushed tight which is bad. So I backed it out just a hair and now there's a tiny bit of play but not a perfect L. Which method should I go with??

[joe1l]

I used a feeler gauge to measure the tail distance then i did the same with the tail. I ended up using .011/.279 gauge.