MSH Protos Build Videos!

[Finless]

Originally Posted by simmer

I finished mine last Saturday and If I was to give you one word of advice, make sure you check the sizes of the parts with a ruler or caliper because there are some parts, screws and other things that are very close in size.

GREAT POINT! I try to point that out in my vids where I notice it. You DO have to make sure you use the right length screw where described. Thanks simmer and again great point!

Bob

[simmer]

there is this hollow pin that holds the rear pully on top, and there is a similar hollow rod/pin that is used for the pitch lever (on the tail control) and these are pretty close. If put in incorrectly, youll pinch the pitch control lever.

My issue was I had a heck of a time putting in the correct rod in the guide pully in the tail section (on the top) then I tried to pull it out (I used the wrong bearings at first, the ones I incorrectly used were wider than they should have been, but they were supposed to have the same inside diameter.) I pulled it out with pliers and deformed it. I spent an hour or more sanding filing and fixing this becuase the pin is such soft metal.

Best way to manage these is to use a punch and a vice to put it on. an old Raptor flybar is just the right size for this job by the way

[Finless]

Yep... I found that out the hard way
The videos on that area will be up today and I point that out since I made that mistake! You have to be careful to use the right hollow pin. Also I had to lightly sand those pins with 600 as they too on mine were VERY tight going in the bearings. You don't want them loose but carumba you also don't need an arbor press to put them in
Thanks simmer seems you finding what I am too!

Bob

[HighFreq]

As posted in another forum (don't recall wich one) if the hollow pins are a very tight firt chances are that you have one of the defective that for some reason made it to the kits. Those pins were not rectified to size as they are supposed to. If the pin is ok it slips in with no force. If you have a defective one and hammer it in you are going to ruin the pin and the bearings.
In case somebody got a bad one please ask your dealer for a new one.


Corrado

[expertrcpilot]

Man did i luck out! not with getting a pin that slides right in, but I git the right one without lookin at it. Both pins tight. no stoppin me, i broke out the 400 grit, and now m fingertips are gone.

[simmer]

Thanks Corrado, Really cool you are so responsive. I actually enjoy the acheivement of finding fixing these little issues, (after they are fixed of course) but its all good. Took my time, used a file and 600 grit SP and got them in and working correctly. I really thought it was me though initially but then checked the sizing and confirmed I had the right parts, so just worried it down until it fit.

[expertrcpilot]

Corrado,

I know that if you are experienced enough to get to this point it should not be an issue, but on page 20 maybe add a note for proper belt orientation: I.E.( turn belt 90 degrees to the right for proper rotation.)

or somethin

[simmer]

+1 Yep I figured out what was needed myself but if there were others with little experience they might get it 90 degrees the wronf way or tristed too many times even.

[expertrcpilot]

next kicker. Tightening the bolt in the rear blade grips with CORRECT sized bearings installed. Tighten down correctly makes for to tight of fit. Back screw ever so slightly and part moves freely. A little sanding on bottom end of the grip to prevent binding, and insuring tight screw.

[expertrcpilot]

Scratch that. When ya think the bearings are seated, theres a good chance there not Exellent tolerances for non CNC!

[Finless]

OK videos posted!

They are in the first post... But here the links too,

Video Link ->Step 4d, Head Setup (37 Megs)

Step 5 Boom Assembly
Video Link ->Step 5 Boom Assembly (46 Megs)

Step 6 Tail Assembly is in 2 parts
Video Link ->Step 6a Tail Case Assembly (44 Megs)

Video Link ->Step 6b Tail Slider & Hub Assembly (78 Megs)

[rcmarty]

Originally Posted by simmer

there is this hollow pin that holds the rear pully on top, and there is a similar hollow rod/pin that is used for the pitch lever (on the tail control) and these are pretty close. If put in incorrectly, youll pinch the pitch control lever.

My issue was I had a heck of a time putting in the correct rod in the guide pully in the tail section (on the top) then I tried to pull it out (I used the wrong bearings at first, the ones I incorrectly used were wider than they should have been, but they were supposed to have the same inside diameter.) I pulled it out with pliers and deformed it. I spent an hour or more sanding filing and fixing this becuase the pin is such soft metal.

Best way to manage these is to use a punch and a vice to put it on. an old Raptor flybar is just the right size for this job by the way

LOL .. Next time i take it apart i'll have to see, from your description i got it wrong.

After a few hours i arrived at alot better of a fit. I ended up with a 3mm trex600 tail bolt (shouldered to ride on the inner side of the bearings - no sleeve) , the hole in the top side was opened up enough to get the bolt in there (friction fit - no side play anymore) and the bottom was opened up and tapped to 3mm by the bolt. Then it could be tightened up or loosened to get it as tight as possible before binding, 3mm locknut on the bottom for good luck.

The stock setup was quite sloppy for me , the 2.5mm bolt wobbled in the hole in the top side , couldn't tighten it up as the bearings would bind , and the bottom had a bit of a wiggle to it also. Combine all 3 and you can sure get some movement out of the slide arm.

I'm assuming that i used the shorter sleeve and therefore the top and bottom ears would hit the bearings, also preventing it from being tightened (which would snug up the play in the top/bottom holes to the 2.5mm bolt)

Thanks

Martin

[brettboz]

I tried googling and looking through this forum for the correct rod length on the servos for the 5245. I tried the longer length but with this length the mixer arms dont seem to match so I shortened it till at 0 pitch my mixer arms were perfectly aligned. Did some adjustments to get swash level and 0 pitch on blades. I had around 14 pitch pos and neg so lowered pitch down on swash, I also dialled back the aile and ele on swash to try to get the 8 degrees mentioned in the video. I think I just about got it now, but will probably go over it all again when I have electronics in.

Videos are great, thanks.

[brettboz]

Another really quick question. With fly bar not connected to blade grips it is fairly loose as I think it should be. But when I connect to the blade grips it is much tighter, is this normal ??

[Finless]

Check that your grips rotate freely. If thats OK make sure your links are not too tight! That for sure will amke the flybar hard to move.

Bob

[brettboz]

And this question is for Corrado. By bag E came with 4 washers, these arent shown anywhere on the manual and there is no mention of them in the video so I am assuming they are not needed and are there by error.

[hookmaker]

I have trouble getting in contact with the build video links this morning? Anyone experiencing the same?
/Henrik

[brettboz]

Originally Posted by Finless

Check that your grips rotate freely. If thats OK make sure your links are not too tight! That for sure will amke the flybar hard to move.

Bob

Fly bar and blade grips all move freely when not attached. When I attach just one side fly bar remains loose when I attach the other it stiffens up. I have loosened the links but any looser and they will be falling out! Im not sure how loose the fly bar should be, on my 400 it is very loose, on the Protos it is now better than it was but still a little tight perhaps (im worried about taking any more out of the links as they are fairly loose now).

[brettboz]

I think I found an error in the manual and bag contents. On my manual page 20 it says to put pin 1.5x8 into the shaft but in fact the long pin is 12mm long and not 8mm. On the bag contents it says there should be one pin of 2 pins of 12mm and 1 of 8mm. This is round the wrong way, there are 2 short pins and one long pin and as Finless Bob says the long pin is the one that goes into the shaft not the 8mm pin as per the manual.

[brettboz]

Originally Posted by Finless

Yep... I found that out the hard way
The videos on that area will be up today and I point that out since I made that mistake! You have to be careful to use the right hollow pin. Also I had to lightly sand those pins with 600 as they too on mine were VERY tight going in the bearings. You don't want them loose but carumba you also don't need an arbor press to put them in
Thanks simmer seems you finding what I am too!

Bob

Ive got the crappy pin in my set too. I identified the correct one and had the correct bearings in but the pin wouldnt go through even after extensive sanding. In the end it got stuck and yes it got deformed in the process of removing it. Definately something that needs correcting along with the contents and size listings for this bag.