Blade 120 SR The mod list......post em' here!!

[kona0915]

Originally Posted by Miasmictruth

I got sick of replacing the carbon fiber canopy rods as they are easy to snap. A good way to fix this is to get some 2mm piano wire, cut it to length and deburr the ends.

I picked up 3, 3 foot rods from my local hobby shop for about $2.50 which is comparable to one set of the carbon fiber rods.

You will need a Dremal to cut and deburr the rods, or metal shears and a file.

That's a good idea!

[kona0915]

Originally Posted by KEIOD

Have only had the heli a day and refuse to think that the batter holder on these things couldn't have had more support. Sitting at my desk, I look around and see a paperclip, then the needle nose and the rest is history. When properly bent...there is 0 wiggle room for the bat holder to move. This can even work without the screw (although I would think it needs to be there for the motor).

Take a look at the pix and let me know what you think.

-Kyle

That's awesome!! Just did that this morning thanks to your post! I'm surprised some after market mfr hasn't done a CNC aluminum version that's more durable.

[CarCrazy]

Originally Posted by Miasmictruth

I got sick of replacing the carbon fiber canopy rods as they are easy to snap. A good way to fix this is to get some 2mm piano wire, cut it to length and deburr the ends.

I picked up 3, 3 foot rods from my local hobby shop for about $2.50 which is comparable to one set of the carbon fiber rods.

You will need a Dremal to cut and deburr the rods, or metal shears and a file.

You could have also done 2mm CF rod. I did that for the weight

[Heli-cat]

I definitely need to check this section out more often,,,44SkyHi your tutorial was fantastic and your heli looks absolutely phenominal....

Thanks so much for taking the time. I'll be referring back to it often.

[Heli-cat]

Originally Posted by Miasmictruth

I got sick of replacing the carbon fiber canopy rods as they are easy to snap. A good way to fix this is to get some 2mm piano wire, cut it to length and deburr the ends.

I picked up 3, 3 foot rods from my local hobby shop for about $2.50 which is comparable to one set of the carbon fiber rods.

I knew I'd find a use for those old training wheels I had for my CX3 (don't laugh, I needed them. I damaged the heck out of that thing ). The CF rods from it are a perfect fit. I don't break the canopy supports very often, (as a matter of fact I've only busted one) so my supply should hopefully last me about a lifetime.

At least the training wheel parts are still seeing service...unlike the CX3, which was a colossal waste of money IMO

[thegeek]

I just wanna know how to get the tail motor wires connector out of the old delrin and in thru the CNC part - it such a small hole- without destroying the little white connector/pins assembly?

Is there a trick to this that all my browsing hasn't yet stumbled upon? I've got these cool parts for both msr and 120 and never fitted them :\

[Pfloyd]

One of the other users filed the little white connector so it would fit thru the boom.

[Howetzer]

The Microheli tail has a notch big enough for the connector to get through, but I read the Rakon part does not...and must be either filed very carefully, or basically destroyed...I dont have first hand expeireince with it though, just with the microheli one. Perhaps 44skyhi's full upgrade post has it?


Edit: yeah it does, post #575 of this thread, he covers what to do with the Rakon tail motor mount. GoodLuck!

[thegeek]

Howetzer, you da man. I have read every page of this mod list and cannot even recall seeing that post - it answers ALL my questions. Weird but good.

Big thanks mate.

[Howetzer]

Don't thank me man lol , thank SkyHi44 he's the one who took the time to get all of that up there for us all, I just showed you the way!

Anyways, goodluck!

[jburg]

I picked up a set of the Align Trex 250 landing gear for my 120SR. How do you guys put those almost invisible set screws in? What size allen wrench do these require?

[thegeek]

Hi jburg

Should find what your looking for in post #574 by 44SkiHi

Cheers

[Mr.Firemouth]

So Dangerous444 decided to go all STEALTH on me for those aerial attacks and went all US ARMY UAV Drone.......

Pictures taken from low res camera(sorry, will try to get better pics on weekend).....

Clear packaging canopy cut and sealed....


Base coat...


Green coat....


Camo....


Decals....

[Mr.Firemouth]

More pics....
On the Bird....


Ready to fly.....





He now has the upper advantage, but I have a high impact camo project coming........

TEASER,,,

[Mr.Firemouth]

Now we are looking for some guns and missle racks from some Revell and Monogram models! LOL

[jburg]

Originally Posted by thegeek

Hi jburg

Should find what your looking for in post #574 by 44SkiHi

Cheers

Thanks thegeek, but he doesn't cover what I was asking. In the first picture of the skid strut (were you slide the Al skid thru) there is the hole on top (tiny) for the set screw they provide with the kit. How does anyone get those in, or maybe you never do use them. The allen hole in the set screw is so small, I have a .5mm slotted screw driver and I can't even get the blade into the hole.

[44SkyHi]

jburg...

In the tutorial, I didn't mention those set-screws, because the black aftermarket struts don't have provision for them, like the stock struts do. I did drill holes for them... but in the end, the wall of the strut where I drilled seemed too thin to actually be able to effectively utilize the screws, so I never put the set-screws in.

And ultimately, I haven't found them to be necessary. The struts actually grip the skids fairly firmly, without them... and the little black rubber "keepers" do a very good job of holding the skids in place, front-to-back. If the skids rotate a little bit after a hard landing, I just spin them back into their "proper" position.

To answer your question about the size of the hex-key that fits the set screws, though... it's 0.9mm. I got this set of micro-hexes from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/35392-5-piece-.../dp/B001ATKWJY

Not bad, for less than five bucks. Throw in a DVD or two, and get free shipping!

Of course, since I decided not to use the set-screws, I haven't actually needed the hexes for anything... but I'm sure I will at some point.

[Mr.Firemouth]

One more teaser shot of the new canopy to go against the Stealth 120sr....

[NorcalHeliAddict]

Originally Posted by Heli Bones

Great to see the thread still going with mods you guys are doing on the 120 sr.

I can get 14 min. flight times...

How..

Two ways.......One is to use two stock 500 mah batteries with a Y plug....just be sure that the two positive (red) leads from each battery go together......And be sure the two negitive(black) leads go together......This will make the batteries be wired in parelell which doubles capacity but keeps the same voltage as a single cell...so you will get 1000 mah at 3.7v.

Thats one way.
The other way is the way i prefer.
You will need a battery from a Blade SR helicopter,it is a 3S 11.1v 1000 mah 15C battery....that is made up of three seperate cells wired in series.
So if you seperate the cells you will end up with three seperate 3.7v 1000mah 15C cells .

The cells are held together with some double sided sticky tape so you need a slow carefull hand and a thin "knife"...something like a credit card with the edges dulled so you don't tear the foil that wraps the cell.
Slowly slide the plastic knife between the cells,very slow...it might take you 5 min to seperate one cell...you must go at it slow from one side then the other being carfull.
Once you have all the cells seperate from one another desolder the wires and don't let any touch each other or you could have a problem.

Now you can solder on some jst plugs and get some shrink tube to cover the battery...a cople layers....Or you can make a case for the battery like you see in the pics.I made cases for each cell with some PETG 0.015 thick and ca glued them together and slid the cell in.

I would not suggest seperating the 3S battery pack unless you have built battery packs before and have soldered ,or if you are carefull,use common sense,work in a safe place...weare safety glasses and have an out...a place to toss the battery your working on if something goes wrong.Then you should be just fine.
If you are scared or worried about doing it then it's not for you.

I also made a new battery tray for the new battery.It is made from some scrap lexan.It mounts to the rear of the frame with two tiny screws.
In the front it tucks up and under the front stock battery mount.The stock mount was trimmed to allow room for the 1000 mah cell.
The battery is now held on with the velcro that comes with the 120 sr batteries when you buy them.


Now,if you want the longer flight time and don't want to split up a 3S battery pack..not everybody is comfortable soldering on lipo batteries,i understand

So what you can do is run two stock batteries.There 500mah and if you have two plugged into the battery lead then you will have 1000mah,but still only 3.7v !
Two ways too do this.
One way is to get another female jst plug just like the one the battery plugs into.
Next you need to splice into the main battery lead.
Be absolute sure that the red wire is soldered to the red wire and the black is to the black wire.
It must be done that way,that will make the two stock batteries be parelell.
If you don't want to splice into the main battery lead then you could use a Y adaptor/harness........Again be 100% sure that red is to red and black is to black...If you have any question about it stop what you are doing and ask for some help,it's better to have to wait for someone to answer your question and help than fry your 5 in 1


My 120 sr has lights,a flashing tail a blue shining up at the rotor disk and a whit in the nose.There is also a small blinker pcb for the tail.
With the new battery tray and no battery the 120 sr weighs 100.0g..AUW is 128. g

Now about the extra weight.
It's great It gives a little higher headspeed and that helps it fly even better in the wind.And on landings......it is so much more easy to slowly lower it down to the ground.It looks so scale.
Before i would have to cut the throttle about 1/4 inch from the ground,now i can hover it mm's from the ground really well.I think it is due the the higher headspeed and it feels,i mean looks very real the way i can slowly lift off and set it down i like it a lot
And the motors run cool ,the extra capacity actually helps the motors run better/cooler.


The 1000mah cell is a perfect balance of weight and power with this heli imho.

Ok i'm sure i might have forgot some thing but here are some pics...more to come..

Heli Bones

Spray WD40 on the credit card and it will slide right between the cells and soften the adhesive

[ostricide]

Has anyone seen or used these cells...?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-15C-3-7V-...item4cfa3a8faa

They looks like a really good deal but I am hesitating because its an overseas shipper with no returns. Any thoughts?