3-axis vs 6-axis Gyro (RX-2636H-D)

[maalse]

Walkera have just released the v120d02s ver2 with the new 6-axis gyro RX-2636H-D

1) I read 6-axis cannot do 3D without "shift" into 3-axis mode. If this is true, can it be done from the transmitter?
2) Can someone explain the difference between the 3 and 6 axis? I thought there were only three dimensions, or does it also feel smell and temperature

[dbennettya]

I don't think anyone has played with one yet. Maybe visit the Genius CP thread as it was the first to have 6 Axis from Walkera.

I think that basically in 6 axis mode they use more HH mode in the 3 axis so it tends to self correct more and won't do 3D because it will fight to stay level.

YMMV, Don

[techieferret]

You can fly 3d with it and it will actually self level inverted.
I've seen videos of it doing this.

[ChitownMatt]

I have both.

I am not very good (FFF, flips, loops, and rolls) are about the limit of my skills, but the V2 seems to operate just fine.

It is definitely more stable and pyros very flat (almost) no right hand at all.

It might be just a tiny bit slower on rolls and flips, but that might also be a difference in my setup. (mechanical only as I am using the exact same TX settings.)

Also with the V2, the amount of gyro can be controlled and dialed down with the pot on the RX, like the MiniCP. With the original 02s the gyro seemed to be either OFF (crashing); ON (Working); or TOO MUCH (Twitching).

I would not run out and buy a new RX just for the upgrade, but if you are buying a new 02s or need a new RX anyway, don't be afraid of the 6-axis.

PS: This is absolute nothing like the Genius' 6-axis from a year or so ago. (I have also flown one of those; that was almost useless in 6-axis mode and sometimes wouldn't even get off the ground.) You cannot switch from 6 to 3 on the V2, but you can dial it down to almost 0% like the MiniCP.

PPS: The new RX is much stronger (and a bit heavier) as it is made with a second piece of circuit board pinned across to the bottom to protect it.

[helicraze]

I have been wondering about this as the d02s i did not find the fbl firmware to work very well. The genius and mini cp are better.

So can i 3d with the 6 axis? Walkera website says yes!

[zadaw]

I think this is the best explanation of how the 6 axis gyro in the V120D02S works from a member's post in RCG

"For the 6 axis stabilisation, here's some details.

For some of us that are familiar (or not) with the high end flybarless unit SK-720 from Skookum Robotic, this is a 6 axis FBL, but we have the choice to turn ''ON/OFF'' the function, as well as activate it for both upright & inverted, or activated only in the area of the center stick, again inverted or not, or both, and the other good thing is we can adjust the amount of self leveling from 1% to 200%, 1% being unnoticeable to 100% for a coaxial feel, and 200% for a ballistic bail out, you can barely tilt the heli at 200% with full stick action, it's locked level.

From my experience with SK-720, I can tell & average that the V120d02S self leveling action is somewhere around 5% to 15% active with center stick function, in fact a little more than center stick, it's somewhere at the middle stick, then if I compare that to the Genius CP, that last one is 100% active and no center stick, wich means the self level is always there no matter how far you push the stick, of course can be turned ''OFF'' on the Genius CP.

An CP heli will never stop its momentum no matter if it level itself during FFF or you level it yourself with your stick, to do so, it need to have a GPS or a photosensor to sense its position in an area, or yourself back on the stick to brake the motion then relevel once its stopped.

I've put very aggressive setting for my V120 V2 in order to make the self level area on my stick the shortest possible, it's still incredibly stable in hover with minimal stick correction, but I don't have to push the stick too far to get it to move like a standard CP, if not, it's very anoying to fly.

Hope this help."

[ChitownMatt]

Zadaw,
Thank you for that.
I am looking forward to experimenting with my Expo settings to try to find the edge of that center stick feature.

I currently have my Expo on +20 and 0 for both elev and aileron, and I did notice it acting kind of funny when on +20. It would sort of jerk and suddenly pitch or roll. It worked just fine on 0.

I think I will give it a go with a -10.

[GJacksonF3N]

So since I'm having so many issues with my d02s from crashes, maybe I should get the new version and then just use parts from the old d02s?

[zadaw]

Originally Posted by inner3

So since I'm having so many issues with my d02s from crashes, maybe I should get the new version and then just use parts from the old d02s?

I think this is a good idea. When you have had so many crashes, you don't know what is going to fail next.

[varadero129]

Originally Posted by zadaw

I think this is the best explanation of how the 6 axis gyro in the V120D02S works from a member's post in RCG

"For the 6 axis stabilisation, here's some details.

For some of us that are familiar (or not) with the high end flybarless unit SK-720 from Skookum Robotic, this is a 6 axis FBL, but we have the choice to turn ''ON/OFF'' the function, as well as activate it for both upright & inverted, or activated only in the area of the center stick, again inverted or not, or both, and the other good thing is we can adjust the amount of self leveling from 1% to 200%, 1% being unnoticeable to 100% for a coaxial feel, and 200% for a ballistic bail out, you can barely tilt the heli at 200% with full stick action, it's locked level.

From my experience with SK-720, I can tell & average that the V120d02S self leveling action is somewhere around 5% to 15% active with center stick function, in fact a little more than center stick, it's somewhere at the middle stick, then if I compare that to the Genius CP, that last one is 100% active and no center stick, wich means the self level is always there no matter how far you push the stick, of course can be turned ''OFF'' on the Genius CP.

An CP heli will never stop its momentum no matter if it level itself during FFF or you level it yourself with your stick, to do so, it need to have a GPS or a photosensor to sense its position in an area, or yourself back on the stick to brake the motion then relevel once its stopped.

I've put very aggressive setting for my V120 V2 in order to make the self level area on my stick the shortest possible, it's still incredibly stable in hover with minimal stick correction, but I don't have to push the stick too far to get it to move like a standard CP, if not, it's very anoying to fly.

Hope this help."

Hey Guys,

Can you recommend me a good setting on the RX-2636H-D to do moderate 3D? Actually, I have a V120D02S V2, and I need some advice on setting all the 3 potentiometers. When I give too much positive on the ail/elev. extension, the ball link can touch the elevator servo case when it comes full down. I know that I can setup the TX like travel adjust and things, I have also finished the mechanical setup, 90 degrees servo horns at 0 pitch etc. Just would like to know the correct settings on the RX.

Thanks.

[MiniCPflyer0110]

I have the six axis version. You only have to switch it to 3 axis on the genius cp. with the new v120d02s the six axis is always on. I do 3d with it with the elev/aile gyro pot set to 10 o'clock. I've heard that if the gyro is set too high, it won't let you flip it because it will over correct and you will most likely crash. That has never happened to me but its something to think about. If you like fff te 6 axis one will be a pain. I'd rather have the 3 axis one after using the 6.

[varadero129]

Originally Posted by MiniCPflyer0110

I have the six axis version. You only have to switch it to 3 axis on the genius cp. with the new v120d02s the six axis is always on. I do 3d with it with the elev/aile gyro pot set to 10 o'clock. I've heard that if the gyro is set too high, it won't let you flip it because it will over correct and you will most likely crash. That has never happened to me but its something to think about. If you like fff te 6 axis one will be a pain. I'd rather have the 3 axis one after using the 6.

Do you mean the 10 o'clock position as almost full positive, or just 4 o'clock position, so it is basically on the negative side from the half? Because on my RX the scale goes from 1 o'clock position to the 11 o'clock one.

[zadaw]

Originally Posted by varadero129

Hey Guys,

Can you recommend me a good setting on the RX-2636H-D to do moderate 3D? Actually, I have a V120D02S V2, and I need some advice on setting all the 3 potentiometers. When I give too much positive on the ail/elev. extension, the ball link can touch the elevator servo case when it comes full down. I know that I can setup the TX like travel adjust and things, I have also finished the mechanical setup, 90 degrees servo horns at 0 pitch etc. Just would like to know the correct settings on the RX.

Thanks.

I have always left my pots at factory setting. But here is a suggestion by a member on RCG on how to optimize the pot settings.

"Try to max the EXT and increase the gain till you get the wobbles. Then back off as needed. In my experience this cures the gyro drift. Any that's left afterwards stems from mechanical issues. It's not gonna be perfect 100% but good enough."

[Thomas.Heiss]

2015...we reached 9-axis with the EZNov Neuron and Spirit System FBL :-)


My Neuron V120 asking thread in EZNov sub-forum: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=714924

Greetings

Thomas