Main gear question for Team pilots

[Seasick78]

I'm in the middle of a new build and I'm trying to figure out which main gear has had the most success between the metal gear and the Lynx main gear?

I already have a metal gear and a stock gear... I'd have to order the Lynx gear if I went that route.

Also - I haven't counted the teeth (yet) on the metal gear. I've read that it's 66T and I've read 68T. Does anyone know what the actual tooth count of the metal gear is? I know the pinion is 19T.

Thanks!

[huanbuihd]

If you fly hard 3D,metal gears is the way to go,remember to grease them very well!And they must be the same tooth as the stock main gear!

[Seasick78]

Dry fluid okay?

[mtymyk]

Originally Posted by Seasick78

Dry fluid okay?

I wouldn't use the Dry Fluid on the metal gear, one of our team pilots wore out the pinion drastically, he does fly very hard and fast. I've had luck just using Tri Flow grease.

[DCflyer]

I'm sure the lynx gear will be fine. I did a good amount if research on them and the general consensus was that they worked perfectly on all kinds of high powered setups. They are CnC Delrin high temperature gears. It would take a lot to strip one. Keeping it cool by making sure it's lubricated for its first dozen break-in flights is crucial however from what I've read which is true of the SAB metal gear as well.

I will be using this gear on my 770C build with pyro competition motor in an effort to eliminate the gear noise of the metal gear.

99% of models today use plastic Delrin main gears, a lot with banzai setups - and run perfect. The trick is to keep the plastic gears cool. That is their Achilles heal. Just keep an eye on it during break in and make sure your mesh isn't super tight.

[OnTheSnap]

Most of my strips come from back to back flying without properly cooling the motor before flying again.

That being said, I have not had a strip with my Lynx gear on my 700 Comp yet after 100 flights. Often with careless back to back flights with no cooling. Where the stock HD gear would occasionally strip under these conditions.

[TheVortex3d]

FWIW I've melted a Lynx gear. It was probably 50-75 flights since I had lubed it though.

[DominicD]

Originally Posted by mtymyk

I wouldn't use the Dry Fluid on the metal gear, one of our team pilots wore out the pinion drastically, he does fly very hard and fast. I've had luck just using Tri Flow grease.

He didn't apply it properly. You need to make sure the metal gear is VERY clean before applying the dry fluid or it will not stick.

[Matt Sherman]

How do you all apply the lube to the main gear? Do you just brush it on? I imagine trying to drip it on would make a mess.

[DominicD]

First clean the thing, even new metal gears are covered in crap. I used brake cleaner but any cleaner that doesn't leave a film should work. I then put a drop at the top of the teeth, then use the brush to apply that drop to a few teeth at a time .... repeat this until all the teeth are covered. After the main gear I also applied it to the pinion.

[Lee2782]

Sorry for my ignorance but is it a wise move to upgrade the main gear on the 700c?
I know the 500 had a few fails here and there and it was advised to get the HD gear if you flew your machine hard, does this also apply to 700c? Is Lynx the way to go?

[DominicD]

It really isn't necessary at all. The only place I would suggest it is if your HS is over 2400 or you are playing around with overspeeds.

[alexmit]

You shouldn't be able to find any SAB team pilots flying aftermarket drivetrain parts. The job is to promote the helicopter in stock form, which I have found to be more than sufficient.

[Seasick78]

Originally Posted by alexmit

You shouldn't be able to find any SAB team pilots flying aftermarket drivetrain parts. The job is to promote the helicopter in stock form, which I have found to be more than sufficient.

Very fair point... Completely slipped my mind (face slap).

[Luvmyhelis]

Most guys are still using the stock plastic gears without any issues. I have played with the Lynx also. Very nice. But, I use a product called white lightning wax lube on all my plastic sab gears and belts. And have almost 300 flights on a couple showing zero wear! Those being pushed by 17000kv (peak) Kde gen 3 and Kontronic motors on 14s.

[DCflyer]

LMH, I looked up some of those white lightning lubes (the Clean Ride), and some of them are flammable. Which one do you use? Not likely it would catch fire, but there is a lot of hot components in a gear box.

[alexmit]

For what it's worth, I use Dry Fluid Extreme Gear Fluid and have had great results on the stock gears. It is expensive and cheaper alternatives may provide similar results, but I've been happy with Dry Fluid. I got mine at HD. Autos are better, less gear snow/wear and it provides a non-sticky lubrication (once dry) that does not sling or smear off the gears. By non-sticky I mean it adheres well to the gears, but does not attract dirt. I'm sure the stuff LMH uses is great too, I just haven't had a chance to try it yet… But I will :-)

[radu7]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

LMH, I looked up some of those white lightning lubes (the Clean Ride), and some of them are flammable. Which one do you use? Not likely it would catch fire, but there is a lot of hot components in a gear box.

It is the carrier in the lube that is the main flammable component. When you put the lube on the gear the carrier liquid helps you get it everywhere it needs to go and then evaporates fairly quickly leaving behind the wax coating. The wax may still be flammable, but there would be so little left that I doubt it would catch fire or burn for long. Esp, if the gear is actually spinning. The wax-based lube is the one you want if you're going to give it a try.

[Luvmyhelis]

Originally Posted by radu7

It is the carrier in the lube that is the main flammable component. When you put the lube on the gear the carrier liquid helps you get it everywhere it needs to go and then evaporates fairly quickly leaving behind the wax coating. The wax may still be flammable, but there would be so little left that I doubt it would catch fire or burn for long. Esp, if the gear is actually spinning. The wax-based lube is the one you want if you're going to give it a try.

Well said, the carrier seems to be alcohol? It flashes off in less than half a minute. And for the wax to burn, the gear would have to be on fire itself. Personally I think the Dry lube is better suited to the metal gear than the plastics. Where the wax lube shines. If I run metal gears, I will most likely be running Dry Lube or testing out the Diamond Lube there instead. I ran the wax lube on my race bikes years ago and it was THE stuff back then that all us semi pro crotch rocket guys were using at the track on our chains. Obviously there are other options now? I haven't tried the Dry lube yet myself and it may work as well?

[Pampaflieger]

Did anybody try the Microheli main gear? Is there a difference to Lynx? It looks like the same material.

http://www.microheli.com/cnc-delrin-...oblin-700.html