Building a 450 Size 4 Blade Tail Rotor

[bdfox1]

Thought I would add a little in case you thought I had fallen off the edge.

I have done a few other little mods on the linkages to keep them from hitting other pieces at the extreme ends of the travel (where I will likely never get to) but otherwise it is done and working.

I'll add a couple of more pictures and then see if I can get a non-embarassing worthwhile short video to show it can get it the air.

I am working through some other stuff now but none of it relates to the tail set up. I'm having a re-think on what my head speed will be so I have to work through some trials and (hopefully small) errors. It is all a bit easier to work with now as I have my CC Edge on it now so I am getting that most important data to look at and compare after every session.

It was not that settled at 1950 RPM so I jumped it up about 100 and it was much more stable and controlled. I also think I need to work with my controller settings a bit (Robird) as I may have it dumbed down a bit too much.

But in the air and I can hold my hover reasonably well again now so I have something to work from to change as needed.

I'll try to take some pictures of the last little mods tomorrow and write that up.

-Barry

[bdfox1]

So here is the last part of the build, I think.

When I bolted on balls that are on the slider initially I had used some nice 2 mm socket head screws that were laying around. Trimmed them to length and all was well. Looked good and everything. However, When I moved the pitch slider to full right pitch and tried to rotate the blades I found that those bolt heads and even the ball links a little, hit on the end of the bracket that holds the pitch arm in place. It is a pretty stout piece so I filed a bit of it away and it was better but the bolts were obviously not going to work. I found a couple of longer 2 mm button head screws in my goodies and those have a shorter and rounder head to them. With them on it was even better but still just ticked on the bracket every time. So I relied the head of the bolt a little (as in ground some of it off and got it so those just cleared. And that has worked.


This only gets close when yo have completely full right rudder on. For me that will mostly be never unless I am trying to recover from something even worse so likely wouldn't matter. But maybe the gyro will be trying to save my butt one day and need to go to full travel to do that and I would hate to think I kept it from doing its job.

The original screws that hold these 2 piece balls on would be great as they go right down flush with the end of the ball but they are way too short to use here and I don't know where to source and longer ones locally.

Then I was over helping my best flying buddy today on something else and showed my handiwork to him and he pulled out some little flat head Phillips 2 mm screws. I fit them up tonight. Now to start worth they are not the same as the "proper" ones but I ground down the edges of the head on them and when I put them in it did increase the clearance just a little and they look good.


Not a super clear picture but I think you get the idea.

Now for a few more test hops and then I think we will call it done. Probably one more report to come. Hope this helps someone in the same way that the pointers I got from everyone else helped me. This was fun, looks cool, works very well was just a neat exercise to go through.

-Barry

[nightflyr]

bdfox1,
Wouldn't this style ball work better in your application?



http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...eel-Ball-Parts

[bdfox1]

That is what these are. The ball part is fine but it is the screw to hold it all on that is the issue. The standard screw that holds those on is not long enough to go through the ball and then through the slider link into the threads on the far side of the attachment. The standard screws settle right down into the top of the ball but any others sit on top.


From the left:
The socket head screw I used at first. There would be nothing left of the socket by the time it was ground down shallow enough
The Align screw (I think it came from an old tail assembly) ground just enough to clear
The screw I ended up using but this one isn't ground down to clear yet (what I started out with)
The standard Align screw for the 2 part balls

-Barry

[nightflyr]

Think it might be time to visit a LHS or perhaps a hardware store

[bdfox1]

And great idea. Except our lhs doesn't stock anything unless it comes from Horizon and then not much and their industrial supply places aren't very big. What I have now is pretty good. But I'll keep my eyes open for longer versions of the ones on the right.

-Barry

[cedreca]

Hello,

My name is Carlos R Cedre, I'am a US Army Dissabled Veteran and I served with pride.

The reason I write to you is that I need some assistance. I'am preparing a Little Bird AH-6 helicopter, like the ones I used to repair when I was active.

I need assistance with the instructions. Could you tell me what are the links in the bag with the yellow tag and the red circle. If you could list all the parts, I would really appreciate it.

Regards,
Carlos R Cedre
443-315-6433Hello,

My name is Carlos R Cedre, I'am a US Army Dissabled Veteran and I served with pride.

The reason I write to you is that I need some assistance. I'am preparing a Little Bird AH-6 helicopter, like the ones I used to repair when I was active.

I need assistance with the instructions. Could you tell me what are the links in the bag with the yellow tag and the red circle. If you could list all the parts, I would really appreciate it.

Regards,
Carlos R Cedre
443-315-6433Hello,

[BlackTitanium]

Originally Posted by cedreca

" Could you tell me what are the links in the bag with the yellow tag and the red circle. If you could list all the parts, I would really appreciate it."

450DFC Linkage Rod Set H45182A