600sx is it a good deal?

[rimaarts]

So... I have a chance to snag almost rtf logo 600sx... Pyro 700 motor, jive 80hv ESC, futaba 451/251 servos, mini vbar and 4x 10s optipower packs... I'm soooo tempted to snag it... Does it sound like a good setup for 725£?

[Mentalic]

Thats about half what it would cost to build it new with that gear, not even counting the battery's. So depends on condition but looks like a bargain.

[rimaarts]

Thanks! No issues with mini vbar? Its supposed to be less vibration resistant as silverline(my first vbar)? 80a ESC is enough?

[rimaarts]

http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/sale/1...600sx-rtf.html

Just paid for it! Kinda like a kid before a Christmas! First logo, first vbar and first electric 600 heli(had a nitro and currently fly synergy e7se) and have also an x3 and protos 500!

Anything I should be aware of? Any tipical logo stuff I should check?

[Mentalic]

Originally Posted by rimaarts

Thanks! No issues with mini vbar? Its supposed to be less vibration resistant as silverline(my first vbar)? 80a ESC is enough?

Pyro 700 and Jive 80 is whats on my 600sx. Add a heat sink and the jive is good for allot more than 80amps.

[213dennisp]

Is it a V1 frame or V2? If it is a V1 does it come with a battery tray? Its not a necessity but it is a good thing to have in case of a crash.

Nothing wrong with the mini it just has fewer plugs than the full size. Full size comes in handy when wiring the vbar governor and a bec.

In case you never used a jive esc look into how to program mode 4. On a side note the jive's bec goes up to a max of 6v depending on what servos you are going to use. The jive's bec is great but I am using an external bec to get the most out on my servos.

[rimaarts]

Originally Posted by 213dennisp

Is it a V1 frame or V2? If it is a V1 does it come with a battery tray? Its not a necessity but it is a good thing to have in case of a crash.

Nothing wrong with the mini it just has fewer plugs than the full size. Full size comes in handy when wiring the vbar governor and a bec.

In case you never used a jive esc look into how to program mode 4. On a side note the jive's bec goes up to a max of 6v depending on what servos you are going to use. The jive's bec is great but I am using an external bec to get the most out on my servos.

Yeah.... I'm sure that kontronik programming will give me headache... Yge made me bang my head for a week until I properly programmed endpoints and governor...
I think its a v1 frame...

Servos is low voltage so no problem with that... How about famous kontronik buffer pack? Only kosmik? Or jives also?

Just at the moment I just want to fly it, after the first crash I'll think about upgrading whatever is broken if I deem it nessecary(like v2 frames, probably downgrade to alloy boom, 12s instead of 10, maybe 690sx main gear/owb)

[213dennisp]

The battery tray are really Anti-taco trays. there to protect your lipos where they stick out of the frame and if you add a plate to prevent the motor counter bearing from digging into your lipos in a crash. They are a good insurance to protect your lipos but like I said they are optional.

The heat fins on the jive are a good thing to have if you live in hot areas and/or do 3D with a big motor. Don't quote me on this but I think buffer packs are for the newer jive pro and komik esc's only.

Programming the jive is really easy. just make sure you
1) have a jumper tab for the jive.
2) setup the end points in your mini vbar to be -100 to 100
3) have your transmitter throttle curve 0 to 100.
4) setup the Jive.
5) set your throttle curve to your preference eg. 0-70-70-70-70
6) and fly.

I wont go into the steps since there are an abundance of threads talking about programming it, to include YouTube videos. Jive are extremely easy to program. You shouldn't have an issue it take about 5 mins to program. make sure you use the jumper tab on the correct two pins to get it into setup mode. On the back of the esc will show you where to install the jumper. Good Luck and welcome to the Logo club.

[taosgraveyard]

Originally Posted by rimaarts

Yeah.... I'm sure that kontronik programming will give me headache... Yge made me bang my head for a week until I properly programmed endpoints and governor...

I think its a v1 frame...



Servos is low voltage so no problem with that... How about famous kontronik buffer pack? Only kosmik? Or jives also?



Just at the moment I just want to fly it, after the first crash I'll think about upgrading whatever is broken if I deem it nessecary(like v2 frames, probably downgrade to alloy boom, 12s instead of 10, maybe 690sx main gear/owb)

Kontronic ESCs are the simplest things,, no headache involved

Using transmitter, program mode 1 ( reset), mode 4. ( helicopter) and mode nine ( lipo)

Everything else is automatic, it's unlikely likely you'll need to tweak governor parameters, and using a pyro you will never have to set PWM or timing

Note: If you want to change the BEC voltage you'll need a Progdisk or progunit. Very simple too.

[rimaarts]

haha... yge programming is also "simple-er" than a stick programming... but i still somehow managed to screw up... so far nothing beats castle usb pc programming! we'll see, on thursday i could still change my mind!

[Retired2011]

Ha!

If you think Castle programming is easy, you are in for a real treat!


It don't get no easier than Kontronik.

[213dennisp]

I felt the same as he did when I was first programming the escs. The key terms and procedures are just different of that what you are used to. which makes it seem like a daunting task to do. Most issues people have with Kontronik is that they over look the transmitter and vbar/FBL endpoint set up. Everybody always posts the esc modes setup. Im no expert but if you have any questions when the time comes just PM me and I will help you out.

[Mentalic]

Originally Posted by Retired2011

Ha!

It don't get no easier than Kontronik.

This is true but there use is a little different. You use flat throttle curves, set zero pitch and flip out of hold, wait for the gov speed to be reached, fly. Time to land hit hold.

[rimaarts]

soo... the guy wrote me i can go and collect today! maybe tomorrow ill change my mind about how easy it is! just holding my thumbs that everything will be as good as it sounds!

[rimaarts]

soo! turns out i didnt even need to program kontronik! the guy said he did it for me! as of today i put 4 flights on logo! and for the most part i love it! i did 2 flights on 6s 4400 setup (pyro 700-520 and jive 80hv) and 2 flights on 10s 4400 setup!

6s setup felt VERY soft and i had to fly really carefully or blow the tail (mostly just guessed vbar gain/agility/style settings), felt like i almost could see the blades spinning! but wow! 8 minutes and still batteries came down with 3.8v per cell! i think i could do 9 minutes pushing it!

10s 4500 setup....hmmm.... it does NOT came out as a medium headspeed 3d machine.... 4.30min and batteries came down with 3.75v! (my throttle curves is 60-75-85%, which should net me around 1600-2000-2300hs) flown mostly at 75%...

and yes, i remember, jive should run at 65% for best governor performance, but funnily enough, the only time when i managed to SLIGHTLY bog it, was on 60% throttle! rest seemed unboggable!

i wonder, for around 1800-1600-1400 setup, would pyro 700-45 be better suited than 520? especially if when buying more batteries i would wish to stick to 12s setup... honestly, i dont NEED more than 2000hs!

on 10s i downloaded a logo 600 settings from internet, put style to robotic, upped agility and it was nearly perfect! only thing (that happens with all of my helis) is that during flips/elevator tictocs it travels left... i dont think its me, because when i try moving a heli during tictocs tail goes all over the place! any ideas?

[213dennisp]

Great guy if he already programmed it for you. Remember A 12s motor on 6s will feel funny. A 520kv motor is best suited on 12s. A 10s vs 12s setups that are personal preference, one thing I will point out with 10s setup is that those lipos will be unusable on any other airframe that isn't a mikado. Due to other airframes being heavier, they are at their happiest on 12s. In short, if you decide to go 10s those lipos are dedicated to only your logo. On the other hand a 12s motor and lipos are transferable to any other airframe if you decide to change and If you want more time flying, I have flown my compass 6hvu on 30% on my jive 80hv for over 12mins on sports flying on two 6s 3300 lipos. I know the 600sx can and will probably beat that time.

The only difference between a leisurely flight and a full on 3d session on 12s is a different throttle curve.

[rimaarts]

Originally Posted by 213dennisp

Great guy if he already programmed it for you. Remember A 12s motor on 6s will feel funny. A 520kv motor is best suited on 12s. A 10s vs 12s setups that are personal preference, one thing I will point out with 10s setup is that those lipos will be unusable on any other airframe that isn't a mikado. Due to other airframes being heavier, they are at their happiest on 12s. In short, if you decide to go 10s those lipos are dedicated to only your logo. On the other hand a 12s motor and lipos are transferable to any other airframe if you decide to change and If you want more time flying, I have flown my compass 6hvu on 30% on my jive 80hv for over 12mins on sports flying on two 6s 3300 lipos. I know the 600sx can and will probably beat that time.

The only difference between a leisurely flight and a full on 3d session on 12s is a different throttle curve.

well, not funny, but "soft" but on such low headspeed i didnt expect anything else! haha but 8.30? i might dedicate one of vbars banks only for 6s flying! yeah... i know about 10s being logo only... thats why im thinking... i want logo 480 and a goblin 570! (not need but want!) so i guess 12s setup is in order!

and yes, i know that i CAN fly jive on 30% tc, active freewheeling and all that, but question is, is it REALLY that good/efficient?or better to drop motor kv?

any ideas about flips travelling left?

[213dennisp]

Google theory of electric motors or electric motor efficiency or the ton of threads on that topic.

[Dennis Everett]

520 kv is a little low for 10s depending on the pinion you use , I had 2 sx's one with the pryo(12s) and one with a scorp(10s) I sold the 12s one , scorp on 10s has tons of power , I use stick packs , makes it much easier to use ...

[rimaarts]

i would be using just stick packs.... just this year i want to add 2 more helis to my fleet... to share either logo600sx packs either my synergy e7se packs... other packs will be converted to stick packs!

p.s. im curious about tail setup... so far on all my helis i just set the limits so that slider almost touches on both sides... on logo i seem to be unable to... 2-3* anti torque on tail gives arond 10mm between 96 tail blade tips... on the outside my vbar slider is around 88-90, on inside i can go to 140 and still have 5mm left on tail shaft, while angle seem to be more than 45*... is that normal?