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Quad350qx3 · 07-05-2015, 11:56 PM

The gear mesh on my mcpx feels a little tight. Is it adjustable? Can I move the motor up?

JonJet · 07-06-2015, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quad350qx3

The gear mesh on my mcpx feels a little tight. Is it adjustable? Can I move the motor up?

Are you sure it's the mesh...the stock brushed motor is very notchy

Quad350qx3 · 07-06-2015, 12:19 PM

Thanks Jon..... It is the motor. I just bought a new motor because I thought it was on its way out cause it felt notchy. The new motor feels the same and I even put on a new main gear.

SplashN'Crash · 07-07-2015, 09:48 AM

These motors are notchy (magnetic cogging).

The mounting geometry has no gear mesh adjustment built in. But you can loosen the mounting screws and press the motor shaft away from the gear (gently) while tightening them back up. Or, take the motor out, turn it 180deg and put it back in. Neither of these are a guaranteed fix. But they may loosen up the mesh.

2005h4 · 07-07-2015, 10:47 AM

I don’t know if there is a gap to move the motor side to side….. the motor is tightly press fit to frame. I usually add tap of silicon oil to ease gear rotation and prolong the life of gear. But it gets dirt quickly though…..

JonJet · 07-07-2015, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quad350qx3

Thanks Jon..... It is the motor. I just bought a new motor because I thought it was on its way out cause it felt notchy. The new motor feels the same and I even put on a new main gear.

If you want, slip a piece of paper between pinion and main gear...then loosen/tighten the motor screws a few times...might open up the holes slightly and give some play

Normally, it's not needed...however, Xtreme makes a one-way main shaft that is super-smooth once you get it right

bravedan · 08-19-2015, 12:13 PM

I have had the mcpx since it first came out (with the iffy pre "B" head grips which HH replaced). Currently I have two Mk1 flying. Have been around at least 20 more, setting them up for others.

There are two potential problems that can overlap here.

One is the cogging on the brushed motor, which is very high. This can be reduced a little by bearing lubrication but the brush end bearing is not easy to lubricate without getting the brush gear contaminated.

Two is the gear mesh, which varies quite markedly from model to model, but is often significantly over tight. The problems in adjusting pitch clearance is that there IS no inherent adjustment, the motor sits in a deep moulded shaped recess in the frame.

Altering the pitch by the motor fixing screws MIGHT work IF your frame happens to provide clearance, but most do not!

The frames do vary quite a bit.

One of mine was so bad on mesh that as it was spooled up the main motor would not start easily, the tail motor would whine away with no main rotor rotation, and when it did start, the torque was so high by then that it often threw the thing over. I took the motor screws right out and it didn't help, I forced it back and clamped it up, to no better effect!

You can see the issue (or not if you are lucky) with a Mag Lamp, as the motor and main gear are bottoming teeth before they go over to the next.

What I did with the first iffy frame was to remove everything from the frame, then dremel the frame motor recess to allow more clearance. Not the easiest of tasks Later ones I didn't remove everything but used a running vacuum hose to keep the dremeled shavings away from the still fitted servos, etc, which has worked for several others.

Bear in mind that this over tight drive issue affects battery life, motor temp (so life), throttle reaction, etc, etc.

Get it right and the Heli is transformed.

rctoyguy · 11-10-2015, 10:31 PM

Same issue here I guess. I picked up a used mcpx several months ago and never touched it till this week - bound it to my dx6i, charged the battery and tried some bench testing.

It's so tight it's crazy - if I spoil it up then cut throttle, the blades stop NOW - no free running at all. Can that possibly be right?

JonJet · 11-11-2015, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rctoyguy

Same issue here I guess. I picked up a used mcpx several months ago and never touched it till this week - bound it to my dx6i, charged the battery and tried some bench testing.

It's so tight it's crazy - if I spoil it up then cut throttle, the blades stop NOW - no free running at all. Can that possibly be right?

The mCPX motor does feel very stiff...and stops very quickly

Brian VT · 12-29-2015, 08:18 PM

So...no easy fixes for these notchy motors? What about the old water break-in? Or is there an after-market brand of motor that's better?
My Axe 100 CP is so smooth and quiet and it will continue to spin for a long time after landing.

danb1974 · 12-30-2015, 04:40 AM

I think it's because the motor has a strong magnetic field; being a cored motor, windings are on iron cores, which interact with the magnets even if motor off.

07-05-2015, 11:56 PM	#1 (permalink)
Quad350qx3 Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2015	Gear mesh The gear mesh on my mcpx feels a little tight. Is it adjustable? Can I move the motor up?

07-07-2015, 09:48 AM	#4 (permalink)
SplashN'Crash Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2012	These motors are notchy (magnetic cogging). The mounting geometry has no gear mesh adjustment built in. But you can loosen the mounting screws and press the motor shaft away from the gear (gently) while tightening them back up. Or, take the motor out, turn it 180deg and put it back in. Neither of these are a guaranteed fix. But they may loosen up the mesh. __________________ MCPx V1, MCPx V2, Eflite Extra 260 and GP Extra 300SP (fixed wing) DX6 Garry

07-07-2015, 10:47 AM	#5 (permalink)
2005h4 Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2015	I don’t know if there is a gap to move the motor side to side….. the motor is tightly press fit to frame. I usually add tap of silicon oil to ease gear rotation and prolong the life of gear. But it gets dirt quickly though….. __________________ blade 360 cfx, blade 500 3d flybar, logo 400se

12-29-2015, 08:18 PM	#10 (permalink)
Brian VT Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2012	So...no easy fixes for these notchy motors? What about the old water break-in? Or is there an after-market brand of motor that's better? My Axe 100 CP is so smooth and quiet and it will continue to spin for a long time after landing. __________________ Blade mSR, mSRx, mCPx V2, 200 SRX,+ a bunch of planes.

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07-06-2015, 12:19 PM	#3 (permalink)
Quad350qx3 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Apr 2015	Thanks Jon..... It is the motor. I just bought a new motor because I thought it was on its way out cause it felt notchy. The new motor feels the same and I even put on a new main gear.

08-19-2015, 12:13 PM	#7 (permalink)
bravedan Registered Users Join Date: Nov 2007	I have had the mcpx since it first came out (with the iffy pre "B" head grips which HH replaced). Currently I have two Mk1 flying. Have been around at least 20 more, setting them up for others. There are two potential problems that can overlap here. One is the cogging on the brushed motor, which is very high. This can be reduced a little by bearing lubrication but the brush end bearing is not easy to lubricate without getting the brush gear contaminated. Two is the gear mesh, which varies quite markedly from model to model, but is often significantly over tight. The problems in adjusting pitch clearance is that there IS no inherent adjustment, the motor sits in a deep moulded shaped recess in the frame. Altering the pitch by the motor fixing screws MIGHT work IF your frame happens to provide clearance, but most do not! The frames do vary quite a bit. One of mine was so bad on mesh that as it was spooled up the main motor would not start easily, the tail motor would whine away with no main rotor rotation, and when it did start, the torque was so high by then that it often threw the thing over. I took the motor screws right out and it didn't help, I forced it back and clamped it up, to no better effect! You can see the issue (or not if you are lucky) with a Mag Lamp, as the motor and main gear are bottoming teeth before they go over to the next. What I did with the first iffy frame was to remove everything from the frame, then dremel the frame motor recess to allow more clearance. Not the easiest of tasks Later ones I didn't remove everything but used a running vacuum hose to keep the dremeled shavings away from the still fitted servos, etc, which has worked for several others. Bear in mind that this over tight drive issue affects battery life, motor temp (so life), throttle reaction, etc, etc. Get it right and the Heli is transformed.

11-10-2015, 10:31 PM	#8 (permalink)
rctoyguy Registered Users Join Date: Aug 2005	Same issue here I guess. I picked up a used mcpx several months ago and never touched it till this week - bound it to my dx6i, charged the battery and tried some bench testing. It's so tight it's crazy - if I spoil it up then cut throttle, the blades stop NOW - no free running at all. Can that possibly be right?

12-30-2015, 04:40 AM	#11 (permalink)
danb1974 Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2012	I think it's because the motor has a strong magnetic field; being a cored motor, windings are on iron cores, which interact with the magnets even if motor off.

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