Here is my mcpx brushless conversion with pics ,still video and flight video

[Souskei]

Originally Posted by tntburnett

Have you tried BPhobbies.com for the pinion and the mod is 0.3 for the pitch

Sent from my DROIDX

Yea Bp is out of stock..
I found a place online to get it but They have a 10 dollar low order charge and 7 for shipping for a 1 dollar part... And I don't want to pay an extra 17 dollars for a one dollar part!

If u find anything along the way please lemme know!

Or if u have an extra one you're willing to sell.. Please lemme know too

Btw.. Is the 120sr tail motor that much different than just using the stock tail motor?

Thanks again!

[chopper_bryan]

Which Steves converter do you order? I see there are 4 to choose from in the link

[tntburnett]

Originally Posted by chopper_bryan

Which Steves converter do you order? I see there are 4 to choose from in the link

The first one $15 shipped Usa and Canada

Sent from my DROIDX

[khogan]

Originally Posted by Souskei

Yea Bp is out of stock..
I found a place online to get it but They have a 10 dollar low order charge and 7 for shipping for a 1 dollar part... And I don't want to pay an extra 17 dollars for a one dollar part!

Can you tell me where this is? I am trying to find somewhere to order this part as well and i don't mind a $10 min order. hoping shipping will be OK to Canada BP is $20

[Souskei]

Originally Posted by khogan

Can you tell me where this is? I am trying to find somewhere to order this part as well and i don't mind a $10 min order. hoping shipping will be OK to Canada BP is $20

Barnstormingrc.com

They had 1 more in stock yesterday so hopefully it's still there for ya!

[khogan]

Thanks! to bad for me they are the same $20 shipping + 15% surcharge?!?. Anyone know of somewhere in China/HongKong to get these? I am going to look on eBay. Pretty funny when I need to look to China because shipping from USA is too expensive

[dbennettya]

These guys had reasonable shipping charges to USA and good product. Read their website carefully because for USA you had to request an invoice as Paypal didn't work automatically.

http://www.shop.kkpmo.com/index.php/...16a7cc92af2f07

Also try this:

http://www.radicalrc.com/category/Pi...mall-gears-133

Good Luck, Don

[blbills]

http://www.shop.kkpmo.com/index.php/...16a7cc92af2f07

Great resource if it works as they have 8t and 7t pinions as well!

[dbennettya]

Yes, but the 7T is 1mm or less bore & 8T can only be 1.2mm or less bore from them.

YMMV, Don

[blbills]

Originally Posted by dbennettya

Yes, but the 7T is 1mm or less bore & 8T can only be 1.2mm or less bore from them.

YMMV, Don

Yes and that's why you run the ADH50 that has a 1mm shaft

[Ampdraw]

Originally Posted by blbills

Yes and that's why you run the ADH50 that has a 1mm shaft

Where do you suggest we buy one of them?

Only CJ had them from what I was aware and they're now sold out and not going to be restocked.

I'm running the 1.5mm older version but wouldn't mind the lighter 1mm version if you know where they are avail.

Amp

[dbennettya]

If someone had a donor motor we might be able to see if it is possible to remove the main shaft and turn it down to 1mm on a lathe. It appears that is what was done on the shaft of the one I got from CJ. According to CJ there are a lot of dead C05 motors out there due to the screws being too long and damaging the windings. My motor came with screws that were a little long but ok. I used the stock mCP X screws and they are just right.

Another possibility is to see what the minimum buy size would be for some C05 motors with the 1mm shaft mod. Or maybe we can get them to make it a standard. AeoRC are you listening?

YMMV, Don

[adroc3905]

I have the 1mm shaft BL motor on order from CJ (mentioned in this thread) along with the 7A esc since 6/7/11. As far as I know it was shipped but they do not send you any kind of tracking info so who knows.
I got tired of waiting and decided to go a different route with my BL upgrade as I wanted to fly my mCPx and not dream about what it could become. Helidirect has spoiled me with 2 days shipping.

When it arrives I would happy to sell the motor and esc to someone for the SAME cost I paid for it. You won’t be getting a deal on the price but I can assure you it will not take 3 weeks to deliver either. If anyone is interested just PM me. Otherwise I will just keep it as a backup.

Edit: Sold to dbennettya

[adroc3905]

Ok what’s the trick here? Everything is wired correctly and all I get is a quarter spin on the main blades when I throttle up and then nothing else. I wired the yellow steve converter wire to the board (at the right spot) and the white/red/blk wires on the esc to the white/red/blue wires on the converter.

Not sure what is wrong. Does the esc or tx need to be programmed or set to recognize high and low throttle......like the castle esc's.

Edit: esc beeps when lipo is plugged-in however every so often the esc will go full throttle and respond to no stick input (high or low) from my tx and then other times the esc does nothing and I get no spin. I wonder if the converter is getting the signal from my tx to the esc.

[dbennettya]

Where did you connect the yellow wire? If you connected it to the + motor output like Tnt then you may have to add a 1.8k to 2.4k resistor across the mCP X motor + and - terminals for it to work correctly. I got this input from Steve the designer of the Steve converter. Evidently the Steve has a high input impedance and may need a pull down when connected to an open drain off a P channel FET like the mCP X + motor output. Tnt you may want to add a resistor or just connect the yellow wire to the IC output at the resistor like Jon did as it is an active signal with fairly low impedance. Steve also said that the mCP X has some voltage sensing circuitry that may need the pull down resistor to work correctly.

Once again just because it works doesn't mean it is right (an old saying of mine)

YMMV, Don

Originally Posted by adroc3905

Ok what’s the trick here? Everything is wired correctly and all I get is a quarter spin on the main blades when I throttle up and then nothing else. I wired the yellow steve converter wire to the board (at the right spot) and the white/red/blk wires on the esc to the white/red/blue wires on the converter.

Not sure what is wrong. Does the esc or tx need to be programmed or set to recognize high and low throttle......like the castle esc's.

Edit: esc beeps when lipo is plugged-in however every so often the esc will go full throttle and respond to no stick input (high or low) from my tx and then other times the esc does nothing and I get no spin. I wonder if the converter is getting the signal from my tx to the esc.

[Souskei]

Originally Posted by dbennettya

Where did you connect the yellow wire? If you connected it to the + motor output like Tnt then you may have to add a 1.8k to 2.4k resistor across the mCP X motor + and - terminals for it to work correctly. I got this input from Steve the designer of the Steve converter. Evidently the Steve has a high input impedance and may need a pull down when connected to an open drain off a P channel FET like the mCP X + motor output. Tnt you may want to add a resistor or just connect the yellow wire to the IC output at the resistor like Jon did as it is an active signal with fairly low impedance. Steve also said that the mCP X has some voltage sensing circuitry that may need the pull down resistor to work correctly.

Once again just because it works doesn't mean it is right (an old saying of mine)

YMMV, Don

wait wait..

so tnts way isnt right?

could you please point out to right place to solder the yellow wire on the board please? (picture)

[dbennettya]

There is no right or wrong, both connect points should work but if you connect to the + motor output you should add a pull down resistor. Jon's connect point doesn't require the pull down resistor.

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=29

Where the pic is labeled main is the proper connection for not having to use a pull down resistor or if your main FETs are toast.

Don

Originally Posted by Souskei

wait wait..

so tnts way isnt right?

could you please point out to right place to solder the yellow wire on the board please? (picture)

[adroc3905]

Sweet..........thanks to the help of my fellow HF members I was able to get the BL conversion up and running.

Without going through all the diagnostics I did today here is the setup I used that works for my mCPx:

I am using the Helimax Novus CP kit with the Steve single converter:

Converter:
Yellow to right side of resistor (not the motor connection)
Red to pos lead on board (not esc leads)
Blue to neg lead on board (not esc leads)
White to esc lead (white wire)

Esc:
Red + Blk battery wires from esc to pos + neg leads on board (backside)

So yes, I have the factory white and blk wires, esc red and blk wires and converter red and blue wires all soldered to my pos and neg pads on the board.

For whatever reason the red and blk wires on my esc were not enough to send a strong steady signal to the converter so I was getting erratic loss of signal and throttle control. Also, be sure to scrape away any factory "clear coat" that may be present on the resister before soldering the yellow wire of the converter to the right side leg. You can see the clear coating as it has a sheen to it in the light and is all over the board were several of the factory solder connections are present. By removing this (I used an x-acto knife and scrapped it gently until I saw shiny metal) you will have a much better solder joint. For those guys that are using a digital solder station….use about 630 degrees.

I hope this helps someone as I was personally seconds away from adding another esc to my cart thinking it was a bad speed controller.

[Souskei]

Originally Posted by dbennettya

There is no right or wrong, both connect points should work but if you connect to the + motor output you should add a pull down resistor. Jon's connect point doesn't require the pull down resistor.

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=29

Where the pic is labeled main is the proper connection for not having to use a pull down resistor or if your main FETs are toast.

Don

oh man thats one tiny spot to solder!

thanks for the links tho!

so you think a pull down would be any easier alternative?

[tntburnett]

Originally Posted by dbennettya

Where did you connect the yellow wire? If you connected it to the + motor output like Tnt then you may have to add a 1.8k to 2.4k resistor across the mCP X motor + and - terminals for it to work correctly. I got this input from Steve the designer of the Steve converter. Evidently the Steve has a high input impedance and may need a pull down when connected to an open drain off a P channel FET like the mCP X + motor output. Tnt you may want to add a resistor or just connect the yellow wire to the IC output at the resistor like Jon did as it is an active signal with fairly low impedance. Steve also said that the mCP X has some voltage sensing circuitry that may need the pull down resistor to work correctly.

Once again just because it works doesn't mean it is right (an old saying of mine)

YMMV, Don

Good looking out :-)

I added a 2.2k ohm resistor 1/4 Watt 5% tolerance to my set up. I solder one end to the yellow wire of the steve converter and the other end to the blue wire of the Steve converter. Here are some pics

Have a blessed week

Sent from my DROIDX