Fun, Learning, Friendship and Mutual Respect START  HERE


Unregistered
Go Back   HeliFreak > R/C Helicopters > Main Forum - Helicopter Talk


Main Forum - Helicopter Talk R/C Helicopters and the people who fly them. VENDOR TOPICS DO NOT GO HERE. Full Scale Heli threads go in OT please


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-29-2015, 05:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Nov 2015
Default New to hobby, curious about steps needed to take to progress

Hi all,

I recently got into this hobby. It is a blast. I started out with the Blade 200 SRX but decided shortly after it is not the quality I am looking for. It broke too easily, I had to replace gears in the servos 4 times, went through 2 tail motors, which I later found out had a bad rep.

Now I just got the 230s because I heard it's a good heli for training and learning 3D

I am posting because I am curious about how I should progress in the hobby from here out. Where do I go from the 230s? What brands should I consider?

Here are some questions I have:
1) How long should it take an average pilot to learn inverted flight and loops?
2) Would an Align heli be my next stop? Oxy?
3) Do Align helicopters use gyros to help you fly or do they always and only fly like my 230s will when in the advanced (3D) mode?
4) What are some other brands I should check out? I put a high value on quality.
5) Are most of these advanced helicopters kits? In other words, am I going to have to buy many different parts separately and then build or are there any high end quality helis that come assembled like my Blade 230s? How hard is this to do? I have experience working on my RC nitro cars by the way.
6) Is it worth investing in my 230s as I break parts or just buy the stock replacement parts and save for a new heli? I'm referring to aluminum aftermarket parts, carbon fiber frame, carbon fiber landing gears, etc. In other words, is a 230s the type of heli to trick out?
7) What's the advantage of belt-driven tail motors? I read a lot about people complaining about the 230s having a motor driven tail rotor? Why is that something to complain about?


As you can see, I'm just looking for direction here. Please don't hesitate to just send me links to articles or posts that would answer some of my questions.

Thanks in advance for the help
Nick
airnoobrc is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-29-2015, 07:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,011
 

Join Date: Feb 2013
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by airnoobrc View Post
Hi all,

I recently got into this hobby. It is a blast. I started out with the Blade 200 SRX but decided shortly after it is not the quality I am looking for. It broke too easily, I had to replace gears in the servos 4 times, went through 2 tail motors, which I later found out had a bad rep.

Now I just got the 230s because I heard it's a good heli for training and learning 3D

I am posting because I am curious about how I should progress in the hobby from here out. Where do I go from the 230s? What brands should I consider?

Here are some questions I have:
1) How long should it take an average pilot to learn inverted flight and loops?
2) Would an Align heli be my next stop? Oxy?
3) Do Align helicopters use gyros to help you fly or do they always and only fly like my 230s will when in the advanced (3D) mode?
4) What are some other brands I should check out? I put a high value on quality.
5) Are most of these advanced helicopters kits? In other words, am I going to have to buy many different parts separately and then build or are there any high end quality helis that come assembled like my Blade 230s? How hard is this to do? I have experience working on my RC nitro cars by the way.
6) Is it worth investing in my 230s as I break parts or just buy the stock replacement parts and save for a new heli? I'm referring to aluminum aftermarket parts, carbon fiber frame, carbon fiber landing gears, etc. In other words, is a 230s the type of heli to trick out?
7) What's the advantage of belt-driven tail motors? I read a lot about people complaining about the 230s having a motor driven tail rotor? Why is that something to complain about?


As you can see, I'm just looking for direction here. Please don't hesitate to just send me links to articles or posts that would answer some of my questions.

Thanks in advance for the help
Nick
I'll try to answer some of your questions but please keep in mind these are all only opinions and others will certainly disagree about all in one way shape or form. I'm just trying to help a little and not looking to start any conflict.
1) Big factor here seems to be age. Young (teenagers) flyers seem to pick this up in just a few months and people my age (52) can take years. No two people are the same but getting yourself a SIM and dedicating a few minutes a day to it will save you thousands of dollars over a period of time. Practice safe flying while on the SIM because bad habits will translate IRL.
2) Align is a good next step because of availability of parts and full inclusive kits.
3) Align or any other model will fly according to the FBL unit that is installed. There are a ton of different options that range from very basic, to being very similar to what you have now.
4) Many will tell you that Align and quality should not be in the same sentence, however many will also tell you that Align is great. I'm probably right in the middle there. I have an Align 550 and love it. I also own a Goblin which is considered higher quality and it is definitely more maintenance friendly (again my opinion).
5) Generally with the larger helis they come in kits with no electronics. Align has package deals and some other manufacturers also have packages including servo's motors etc... As you get into larger helis you will want the ability to equip them the way you want to match your own flying demands
6) Many new flyers get into the new helicopter bling phase, only to quickly learn it does not make them fly any different (sometimes worse) and is just a waste of money. Follow the forum for your model and you will learn which upgrades are needed due to deficiencies with that specific model.
7) This is a Ford VS Chevy argument when it comes to torque tube vs tail belt, but one thing you will not see in this argument is motor driven. For a larger heli (450 and up) a motor driven tail just doesn't cut it.

Hope this helps a little, good luck have fun and keep us posted.
Dan
__________________
MCX2, 120SR, Blade 4503D w/Robird G31, Trex 500 w/RC Aerodyne A109 Scale Fuselage, 2X Trex 500's, Trex 550 w/ BD3SX, 2X Goblin 570's, 2X Goblin 700's w/BD3SX DX6i, DX9, Phoenix Sim, and a credit card. HF member #178,534, AMA
danfornow1 is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 07:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 5,704
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: May 2012
Default

The faster route is just take all your savings, put it in a pile then burn it....

Same net effect but the heli way is a lot more fun and will take a lot longer!

I'm sure others will chime in with much better and more constructive ideas....
__________________
Jeti DS-16, Oxy 3, Goblin 380, 500, 630, and 700 competition, Airwolf 600 scale heli, Brain/Ikon 2, Spartan VX1e, Sk 720, YGE and Hobbywing.
Shogun71 is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 07:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,011
 

Join Date: Feb 2013
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shogun71 View Post
The faster route is just take all your savings, put it in a pile then burn it....

Same net effect but the heli way is a lot more fun and will take a lot longer!

I'm sure others will chime in with much better and more constructive ideas....
=1 I think you nailed it
__________________
MCX2, 120SR, Blade 4503D w/Robird G31, Trex 500 w/RC Aerodyne A109 Scale Fuselage, 2X Trex 500's, Trex 550 w/ BD3SX, 2X Goblin 570's, 2X Goblin 700's w/BD3SX DX6i, DX9, Phoenix Sim, and a credit card. HF member #178,534, AMA
danfornow1 is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 07:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 9,303
 

Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ohio
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shogun71 View Post
The faster route is just take all your savings, put it in a pile then burn it....

Same net effect but the heli way is a lot more fun and will take a lot longer!

I'm sure others will chime in with much better and more constructive ideas....
No, no, no.

Take all your savings and send them to "The MariaFan Retirement Fund".

Tax deductible, of course.


On a serious note: Many people will follow along to guide you in our hobby.
__________________
.
.

I have to turn the music down while driving so I can see better.
MariaFan is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 07:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 5,162
 

Join Date: Aug 2011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by airnoobrc View Post
Hi all,

I recently got into this hobby. It is a blast. I started out with the Blade 200 SRX but decided shortly after it is not the quality I am looking for. It broke too easily, I had to replace gears in the servos 4 times, went through 2 tail motors, which I later found out had a bad rep.

Now I just got the 230s because I heard it's a good heli for training and learning 3D

I am posting because I am curious about how I should progress in the hobby from here out. Where do I go from the 230s? What brands should I consider?

Here are some questions I have:
1) How long should it take an average pilot to learn inverted flight and loops?
There is no average. Everyone progresses at different rates. Some learn very quickly, some learn quickly in the beginning and then slow down, others start slow then take off like a rocket. With dedicated practice, 30 mins a day, you should be able to comfortably fly all circles and funnels, hover upright and inverted in 6 months or less.
2) Would an Align heli be my next stop? Oxy?
Newbies often think Align is a top quality kit. It's not, there's certainly better options. Look at the MSH Mini Protos and Gaui X3.
3) Do Align helicopters use gyros to help you fly or do they always and only fly like my 230s will when in the advanced (3D) mode?
All of our FBL helis use gyros to help you fly. However, they don't all do self-leving like the easier modes on the 230. They will fly more like the 230s in 3d mode. The Brain FBL unit offers a self-level mode that will fly like the beginner mode on your 230.
4) What are some other brands I should check out? I put a high value on quality.
Top quality kits come from MSH, Gaui, Mikado, etc.
Brands to avoid based on my experience are Align, Blade, KDS(the Chase 360 was poor, the Agile 7.2 was great)
This stuff you'll see more as you research specific helicopters before you buy.
5) Are most of these advanced helicopters kits? In other words, am I going to have to buy many different parts separately and then build or are there any high end quality helis that come assembled like my Blade 230s? How hard is this to do? I have experience working on my RC nitro cars by the way.
Building kits is 1) the best way to go, and 2) very easy. First of all, building kits allows you to get intimately familiar with the model. It takes some of the fright factor out of crashing and repairing. It also lets you know that it's built properly. The guy at the factory who builds these BNF kits makes less than US minimum wage, and he doesn't give a S*** about you and your well-being. He just throws parts together, too many stories of missing loctite and improperly assembled pieces with BNF products.
6) Is it worth investing in my 230s as I break parts or just buy the stock replacement parts and save for a new heli? I'm referring to aluminum aftermarket parts, carbon fiber frame, carbon fiber landing gears, etc. In other words, is a 230s the type of heli to trick out?
Stay stock. Everyone blings at some point. Most of us get over it. It adds weight. Then the heli "needs" more power. So we spin more RPM on the head, we do more damage when we crash. The parts are more expensive to replace and it's just a pain. I suggest avoiding the upgrade road, and only replace parts if they become a real problem area. IE. Some models have very fragile skids, and you're better off replacing them with others for additional durability.
7) What's the advantage of belt-driven tail motors? I read a lot about people complaining about the 230s having a motor driven tail rotor? Why is that something to complain about?
Not just belt, but also torque tube. A motor driven tail is much like a fixed pitch helicopter. It's slow to respond because the motor has to speed up and slow down in order to change the behaviour of the tail. A driven tail, by belt or torque tube, spins are a fixed rate based on the headspeed. Then pitch of the tail blades change in order to move or hold the tail position. Much like a collective pitch head, the tail is able to respond much more quickly and accurately. Motor tails are know for limited holding power, blow outs, wagging etc.

As you can see, I'm just looking for direction here. Please don't hesitate to just send me links to articles or posts that would answer some of my questions.

Thanks in advance for the help
Nick
Response in line
jmtyndall is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 07:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 511
 

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: SE Florida
Default

Check out rchelicopterfun.com. It is a wonderful, near cyclopedic, general resource for all of the questions you ask and others you haven't yet considered. As mentioned, some may differ on some of the details he suggests, but I think most would agree with the broad strokes on this site.

Between that site, and HF you have all you need by way of information and guidance. I think it is still generally recommended and advisable to find someone to "mentor" you as you get started with bigger helis (anything 450 or larger). I didn't have anyone to talk to, check my mechanical setup, and offer help with all the little details that need to be addressed in this hobby. Lots of people suggest looking for someone to mentor them at a local field/club. You can do fine without it but I'm guessing there were at least 3 crashes that could have/would have been prevented had someone with a bit more experience than me seen/known what I was trying to do. If you struggle with a limited tolerance for frustration, finding a buddy to help you may be more important- they can save you from doing something stupid.

Pace yourself, there is a whole lot to take in.

Welcome!

-b
__________________
Flying > Crashing
(well, I'm working on it...)
KDS Chase 360, Gaui X3L 3 blade head & tail, KDS Agile 7.2, Spektrum DX8g2. Citizen 740.
heli-b is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 08:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 4,563
 

Join Date: Mar 2013
Default

I'll give you my advice. As a new user, be warned... I typically march to my own drum beat, and have taught a number of folks to fly ranging to my 6 year old (at the time) to my uncle who is 86. I think you can learn very quickly by following a few simple steps. (I normally recommend a different heli to learn on first. There's an indestructible one about $35 RTF called a WLToys V911. Pretty well indestructible and utterly perfect first heli.)

Step 1. Learn Rudder/Yaw - your left stick, left and right.
- heli on flat and slick surface. Power up, and spin the blades but don't take off. (V911 is tiny so a living room table is ideal. Your 230 is too big for inside, so a trampoline is ideal for it. Slick, and flat.)
- use throttle to spin blades so the tail comes on...
- keep tail pointed at you, using the left stick left and right. (Try not to go up and down cause it may take off)
- walk around the trampoline both ways and have tail follow you...
- spin it away from you then put it back...
- look away, spin it, look back and snap the tail back facing you.
What's that for? Your controls are correct (right is right, left is left) when the tail faces you. Backwards (left is right, etc) when nose in. Learn to keep it tail in without thinking.

Done? So tail will be magically locked to point at you without you wasting energy chasing it. Elapsed time - maybe an hour and a few batteries... Once this is easy, learn cyclic.

2. Cyclic - still on trampoline, same very low head speed, keep tail at you and use your RIGHT stick. Right and left lean heli right and left. (So it will move where it leans.) front and back, same thing. (Heli leans forward and back)
- start in center, and scoot heli around the trampoline and back to the center... That's like hovering without leaving the ground.
- learn the right moves and the right amount. (Everything is proportional.)
- elapsed time another hour or 3 or so batteries...

3. SKIP this step! Crashing! - with a v911, I tell em to yank full throttle and go up 100 feet then full down to kill throttle. Let it hit the ground WITHOUT the motor running. Pick it up and repeat until you instinctively kill the motor if you're gonna crash. Lol... The 911 won't break but it's a weird heli. That skill still translates all the way up to 800's. If they crash, they will break anyway but it will always break less if the motor isn't running after and during the crash.
- just know this... I like the v911 cause you do that a few times and it becomes second nature... Crash? Sure but never with motor running... The example of take all your money and make a bonfire, well learn this and it makes that take half your money and make a bonfire.

4. Flying - so the left stick, is up. It's collective and throttle. Let that go up and take off. Get to a height out of ground effect (usually 2-3 feet) and hover. Use all your controls to try to stay in a box of about 3 feet by 3 feet. Hover well, then try to get better. Kill it if you exit your "box".
- takes a bit to learn but the 230 has stabilization. So letting go of right stick it goes back level.
- when you learn this, your hovering tail in.

Progression goes:
Hover side in.
Hover nose in.

Then forward flight. (Many skip the side and nose in but don't. You want to be more confident and progress faster, you need those basics)

You can try a piro. Stay level, yank rudder to spin the heli a full 360 around. That's a piro.

Idle up flying - flying where the throttle is just "ON" and mid stick is no thrust. Up is positive collective (climb) down is negative collective (climb while inverted)

Loops, flips, and rolls. (As you get comfortable, hang upside down at top of loop...)

Then you can learn to hover inverted. Usually go high in a loop, get level upside down, then come down staying level... If you slip, let go of right stick and pull down on collective to climb then flip back over and recover.

As far as next helis, I'd recommend these two general steps:

1. Go back one step and get a V911. Use it to learn the basics with. (Esp step 3.) - it's gonna be cheaper than even 1 repair!
2. For your next heli, get one you build.

Gaui - Flies amazing, crashes like a tank! (My vote) X3
Others may do you well... Just look around.
Blade 300cfx frame for cheap, and build it with ideally an Ikon or Brain. You end with one that'll outfly the original for less money and learn your build lessons too.

Good luck! It's one hell of a ride!
gunny_jeeves is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 09:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Dec 2011
Default

Quit your job
move in with your Parents
collect unemployment
Practice night and day for 5 years
Kap'n Krunch is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 09:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,938
 

Join Date: Apr 2011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by danfornow1 View Post
I'll try to answer some of your questions but please keep in mind these are all only opinions and others will certainly disagree about all in one way shape or form. I'm just trying to help a little and not looking to start any conflict.
1) Big factor here seems to be age. Young (teenagers) flyers seem to pick this up in just a few months and people my age (52) can take years. No two people are the same but getting yourself a SIM and dedicating a few minutes a day to it will save you thousands of dollars over a period of time. Practice safe flying while on the SIM because bad habits will translate IRL.
2) Align is a good next step because of availability of parts and full inclusive kits.
3) Align or any other model will fly according to the FBL unit that is installed. There are a ton of different options that range from very basic, to being very similar to what you have now.
4) Many will tell you that Align and quality should not be in the same sentence, however many will also tell you that Align is great. I'm probably right in the middle there. I have an Align 550 and love it. I also own a Goblin which is considered higher quality and it is definitely more maintenance friendly (again my opinion).
5) Generally with the larger helis they come in kits with no electronics. Align has package deals and some other manufacturers also have packages including servo's motors etc... As you get into larger helis you will want the ability to equip them the way you want to match your own flying demands
6) Many new flyers get into the new helicopter bling phase, only to quickly learn it does not make them fly any different (sometimes worse) and is just a waste of money. Follow the forum for your model and you will learn which upgrades are needed due to deficiencies with that specific model.
7) This is a Ford VS Chevy argument when it comes to torque tube vs tail belt, but one thing you will not see in this argument is motor driven. For a larger heli (450 and up) a motor driven tail just doesn't cut it.

Hope this helps a little, good luck have fun and keep us posted.
Dan

+1 I would also like to add that patience will be the single most important skill you'll have to have in this hobby. Also try not to get caught up in the "gotta have the latest and greatest" trap. I have seen a few guys get burnt out with the hobby by purchasing and trying fly and maintain too many models as a new pilot.

My advice is take your time, learn as much as you can, fly what you have and research what you want and if you don't have a SIM get one your 3D journey begins there. Welcome to the hobby and good luck
__________________
SYNERGY N5C, Xpert, VBAR NEO, ROTOR RAGE 30%, O.S.55HZ-R SYNERGY E5s Rail 626/106,Scorpion 4035 560kv,Hobbywing ,Vbar NEO,Xpert Vcontrol N556 Xpert R2's OS Powered Nitro Beast
TEAM SYNERGY FIELD REP
XPERT TEAM PILOT
boogie12 is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 10:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 635
 

Join Date: Jan 2014
Default

A lot of great info has been givin to you. +1 to the sim also it helped me with orientation stick control and muscle memory. Now when I go out and fly things just come naturally you don't think about it you just do it. I started about 2 to 2 1/2 years ago. Started on toy grade coaxials because I didn't know a darn thing about it. Got addicted and found out about blade stuff and got the msr and nano qx. Nano qx was a good trainer also. Like everyone has said everyone is different with learning and progress. One thing I found out is I got myself frustrated and just about threw in the towel because I pushed myself thinking things like 3d flying and things were just going to happen pretty quickly and it hasn't. So I stepped back and said to myself I love this hobby and it is suppose to be fun. So I just told myself I will progress at my own pace and things started clicking. I am now out flying my 450x and 360cfx smooth as silk with solid flights. Now next summer I will start working on some 3d. Just relax have fun pace yourself it will come when it comes and all of a sudden one day it just all starts to click and what a awesome feeling it is. Good luck have fun. Also I found a group of guys that fly helis and they took me under there wing and I wouldn't be where I am today if I didn't have their support and guidance. So find someone with knowledge and someone who has experience and get tied up with them and let the teaching begin.
sooners is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 10:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 4,738
 

Join Date: Nov 2008
Default

Get a sim to go along with your heli and check out this thread. As far as learning orientations and forward flight the 230s will be fine, just recognize as stated above the tail hold will not be as good as you get better. The 230, like a MCPX BL is cheap to crash and fix as long as you fly it over long grass. As you get better a Gaui X3 is a very good choice to move up in size and performance.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=531380

There is a lot of good info in the RC Helicopter Flight School forum also.
__________________
Paul
Agile 5.5 - Q 4125-1100, YEP 120, Brain2 HD FBL / Outrage 550 - HK4020-1390, Edge 120, Brain2 HD
Rave Ballistic FSO - Q 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD / Protos Max V2 - MSH 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD
pctomlin is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 11:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 4,882
 

Join Date: Jul 2007
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kap'n Krunch View Post
Quit your job
move in with your Parents
collect unemployment
Practice night and day for 5 years
That will do it!
__________________
|Michalis|
...let the flying be second nature!
acidla is online now        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-29-2015, 11:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 2,282
 

Join Date: May 2012
Default

+1 on the sim and on going through the articles in HF Flight School.

It may be worthwhile to consider a small micro: scale down right now, scale up later on when you're not crashing your small micro (very often) and have built up some confidence with it.

I like the sim & micro combination to build confidence and skill level because:

a. the micro gives you hands on stick time a sim doesn't, while the sim lets you experience larger helis that are less twitchy - in a simulated environment, where crashes are free.

b. a small micro is RTF or BNF, so no assembly required. It may require some tuning out of the box. Good small micros are very durable, and easy and inexpensive to fix.

I'm not going to recommend a specific micro, because each have those who love them, and likely a few who weren't so keen on it. Its also worthy of a separate thread, although if you look through the forums this comes up in many forms pretty often.

You can read about its pros, its cons, get a general feeling of whether you think its a good buy or not, and then make your own decision.

A 230S is technically a 'micro' (as is anything else smaller than a 450), which is why I added in 'small' Nanos by Blade, and several others by various manufacturers fall into the durable, and cheap to repair category. The 230S is made by the same manufacturer, and of about equal vintage, as the 200SRX - which you found 'is not the quality I am looking for. It broke too easily, I had to replace gears in the servos 4 times, went through 2 tail motors, which I later found out had a bad rep'

That's not a knock on the 230S or 200 SRX - but it begs the question of why you would wish to jump back into the same well and expect different results. The 200 SRX is FP, I believe, the 230S adds 'SAFE', and is a CP heli that can replicate the FP flight envelope via software (stability mode). But its probably made in the same place and same people as your 200 SRX - I would assume some degree of overlap in parts and build quality. Its not going to be easier to fly than the 200 SRX - even SAFE has its limitations in terms of what it can bail out of before the heli impacts something.

My 2 cents, others may disagree.
__________________
KDS Chase 360 - μBeast+ - Scorpion - HW 50A - KST 215MG - MKS DS95i
Blade 230S / 180 CFX / mSR X / mSR
XK K110 / Phoenix / DX6i
Blade Scraper is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-30-2015, 12:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,011
 

Join Date: Feb 2012
Default

I had good luck with a Blade mQX quad and Phoenix Sim. I learned how to hover in all orientations except inverted with the quad. Once I got the hover down I transisitioned into forward flight with the quad. I learned how to make coordinated turns with the quad. The little quad is virtually indestructible if flown over grass and parts are cheap if you do manage to break it. You can also fly it indoors if the weather outside is crappy. I was also using what I learned with the quad to fly the sim with pretty good results. One thing I learned quickly with the sim is to use one of the larger models. The learning curve with the larger models is not nearly as steep as it is with the little 450 size models and smaller.

When you get ready for your first collective pitch machine ( and you will know when) please please please set it up with a beginner pitch curve rather than a linear pitch curve. Learn how to fly before you start trying 3D tricks. Once you get the flying part under control then You can add in the linear pitch curve and start with the 3D tricks.

This method worked well for me and I was 66 years old when I started. Good luck with your quest. There is a lot of fun to be had on the journey, a lot of friends to be made on the journey.

ROG
__________________
Retired Old Guy MOLON LABE
Synergy N7, E5, 516, 766, 556
V-Bar Control Touch (Neon Yellow) Neo all around
whitehedr is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-30-2015, 02:24 AM   #16 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Apr 2013
Default

I'm not going to answer your questions directly as there's a lot of detail on that already in the thread, instead here are my general thoughts for somebody starting out.

1. You're going to crash, a lot.
2. Smaller heli's break less when you crash.
3. The more you fly, the faster you learn, but then the more you crash.

Yes, the 200SRX broke stuff when you crashed, the 230S will too. It's part of the hobby, but there are some things you can do to reduce the damage in a crash:

1. If you want, get a smaller heli. The nCPS is tiny, and the low weight means less damage in a crash.
2. Buy a sim and practice on there as often as you can, it'll pay for itself with just one or two crashes, and if you want to 3D you'll be simming for years (the worlds top pilots sim for hours each day).
3. Practice hitting throttle hold. If you can cut the throttle before you hit the ground it can save a *lot* of damage.
4. On small models it may help to setup throttle hold to fix the blades at zero pitch, preventing the blades smacking into the boom and causing more damage.

So, with that said, given where you are now I'd say you should stick with the 230S until you can outfly it (could easily be 6 months to a year). Don't add aluminium bling. When it comes to upgrades some improve the flying, but a lot just add weight, and when you're learning keeping the model cheap to crash is far more important.

As you learn more about the hobby, if you find there are weaknesses in the 230S, that's when it's worth adding parts, just be aware that a lot of people throw a ton of money on small heli's trying to make them fly better, and if often doesn't work.

Upgrades to fix a problem or make something stronger are great. Upgrades to make it look better are also fun. But upgrades to make a micro fly like a larger helicopter are often a money pit.

A 230S and a simulator will let you learn a ton, once you finally outgrow them there are a few ways to go next:

- A powerful micro. The 180CFX is top of the heap right now, but there are others coming out pretty soon.

- A larger heli. The 360mm class fly great, but need a lot more space to fly, and more awareness of the dangers. They're not something to fly at a park with other people. But they're a great step up once you've learnt the basics.

Have fun :-)
__________________
Helis: Oxy 4 Max (day + night), Gaui X3 380, Oxy2 FE 215, Oxy2 Sport 190
Radio & FBL: Spartan Vortex, MSH Brain, Jeti DS-14, Spektrum DX8G2
Sims: RealFlight & AccuRC
myxiplx is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-30-2015, 02:48 AM   #17 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 9,101
 

Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Racine, WI
Default

Lots of great information has been posted here already. However this might help a bit with some of the concepts and overall basic 101's:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=720316
__________________
Goblins: 420 (Buddy) / 500 (Sport) / 570 (Drake) / 700 (Raw KSE) / 700 (Kraken)
Gear: NEO / Xnova / Hobbywing
YouTube: http://tinyurl.com/toadiscoil
Podcast host Skids Up
toadiscoil is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-30-2015, 05:45 AM   #18 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: May 2015
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by airnoobrc View Post
Hi all,

I recently got into this hobby. It is a blast. I started out with the Blade 200 SRX but decided shortly after it is not the quality I am looking for. It broke too easily, I had to replace gears in the servos 4 times, went through 2 tail motors, which I later found out had a bad rep.

Now I just got the 230s because I heard it's a good heli for training and learning 3D

I am posting because I am curious about how I should progress in the hobby from here out. Where do I go from the 230s? What brands should I consider?

Here are some questions I have:
1) How long should it take an average pilot to learn inverted flight and loops?
2) Would an Align heli be my next stop? Oxy?
3) Do Align helicopters use gyros to help you fly or do they always and only fly like my 230s will when in the advanced (3D) mode?
4) What are some other brands I should check out? I put a high value on quality.
5) Are most of these advanced helicopters kits? In other words, am I going to have to buy many different parts separately and then build or are there any high end quality helis that come assembled like my Blade 230s? How hard is this to do? I have experience working on my RC nitro cars by the way.
6) Is it worth investing in my 230s as I break parts or just buy the stock replacement parts and save for a new heli? I'm referring to aluminum aftermarket parts, carbon fiber frame, carbon fiber landing gears, etc. In other words, is a 230s the type of heli to trick out?
7) What's the advantage of belt-driven tail motors? I read a lot about people complaining about the 230s having a motor driven tail rotor? Why is that something to complain about?


As you can see, I'm just looking for direction here. Please don't hesitate to just send me links to articles or posts that would answer some of my questions.

Thanks in advance for the help
Nick
I think you're on the right track with the 230S and how well you can fly it will pretty much determine how well you can fly any of the bigger helis too. But to answer your questions from my own learning experience:-

1. Impossible to answer, some learn very quickly and progress to 3D in a matter of months, others spend years just flying simple circuits. All down to natural ability, attitude, age and commitment. FWIW I was flying basic circuits and 8s after a month, then loops, flips, rolls and inverted hovering after about 6 months and now just venturing into basic 3D moves and more sustained inverted flying after nearly 12 months. I'd say that's typical progress but needs a fair bit of effort and a sim is a must to get beyond simple upright flying. Just progress at your own pace and enjoy every step!

2. Lots of options once you are confident flying your 230S. I went from a Blade 180 CFX to an OXY 3 and I was very happy with that choice. The quality is top notch and an easy first build. Another great option would be the slightly bigger Gaui X3. But really you could go to any size heli at that point depending how much you want to spend, how big your flying field is and what size model you actually aspire to fly. The main thing is not to make this step until you are very comfortable flying upright circuits and 8s with your 230S in advanced mode. When I got the OXY I was just starting to fly my 180 CFX inverted and had all my upright orientations fully nailed. I was happy to flip the OXY on its maiden flight and it was actually easier to fly than the Blade micro.

3. I think what you are asking here is do other control units provide self-levelling modes like your 230S? The simple answer is yes, most of the latest generation gyros (FBL units) can self-level and panic rescue, but not all of them. Your choice of FBL unit is totally separate from your choice of heli. Common options are BeastX, Vbar, Ikon and Spirit, but there are loads more controllers out there and they all do much the same job. It's a big subject though and something you simply need to read up on.

4. If quality is your main priority, then other brands to consider are SAB, Mikado, MSH and Gaui. Of those, Gaui and MSH are probably the best value for money and as I mentioned already the Gaui X3 would be a great first proper heli and you may want to look at the MSH Mini-Protos too. But the OXY 3 is a great quality choice if you want a smaller heli. Align are of reasonable quality too, but certainly not the best. Best bet is to go through the brand specific forums and see what issues people have.

5. Yes, you are going to have to build from a kit if you want top quality. There are very limited options of pre-built helis once you get beyond Blade micros. There is the Blade 360 CFX and new 270 CFX if you really don't want to go through the build process just yet. They seem like decent helis too, but you will get better overall quality by building your own kit from scratch. The quality kits are not that hard to build if you have reasonable technical ability, but it does require a lot of reading and research before you get going. I'm a mechanical engineer by profession, so it was probably easier for me, but I still had an awful lot to learn!

6. No, don't invest anything in your 230S, just keep it running on stock parts. It's a trainer, not something to love. Once you move to a proper high quality kit, you will be dragging this thing around the floor without a care in the world and any bling you invest in will seem like a huge waste of money. Don't do it!!

7. It's a long story, but an electric motor driven tail rotor is not as good as a belt driven or torque tube driven variable pitch tail rotor. For much the same reason as variable pitch main blades are better than fixed pitch blades. Once you get onto quality kit builds, there are no electric fixed pitch tail rotors. Everything is variable pitch and you have a choice of belt or torque tube drive off the mainshaft. I prefer belt-drive as it's quieter and less prone to damage in a minor tail strike, but both work fine. Some helis even have a choice of both, like the Gaui X3. Others are one or the other.

Best of luck, I'm sure you'll make some informed decisions along the way
__________________
Goblin 380 KSE, OXY 3, 180 CFX, 130 X, nQX, mCX2

DX8, BeastX, Heli-X, neXt
peteski is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-30-2015, 05:45 AM   #19 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 2,386
 

Join Date: Apr 2014
Default

A lot of good comments so far; I add that I second Align as a good choice due to the parts cost and availability.
Second thing I will add; I recommend, if possible and as soon as possible, to jump to a larger size
heli. Larger being 550 - 700. This is assuming you can safely fly in both sim and your smaller size heli.

Some advantages to larger (550 and up)

easier to fly - stable
3D moves can be mastered with precision
much more resistant to wind
easier to see and keep orientation
easier to build and repair

some disadvantages to larger (550 and up)

cost more to buy
cost more to repair
need safe place to fly
more dangerous - can kill
fear can be a factor as well

If your ultimate goal is a larger size heli and performing 3D type flying, jump to that size as soon as possible. You can spend a lot more time and money on smaller helis and take longer to get to your full potential if you move up by progressing incrementally through each size class.

If on the other hand money is an issue, or access to a flying location, or ability and/or desire to build is an issue, smaller helis have a lot to offer. Blade offers a 450 BNF, and Align also has a BNF 450 size heli.

On larger heli's nitro is an option if you are comfortable in that area. That is another debate by itself as you will learn. But an added benefit for me is being able to stay in the air longer per flight for practice purposes.
__________________
Marc
Norman, OK - Synergy N7, TREX 700N DFC, TSA 700N, TSA 600N, Trex 550, Trex 500 ESP (FBL), 450L, RCHN - 700
mqowen is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-30-2015, 06:51 AM   #20 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 5,602
 

Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Default

You got lots of good advice above. The rchelicopterfun website is a great place to learn pretty much all you need to know to go quite far in this hobby - I read it all and even coming from 15 years of fixed wing RC experience it was a big help.

There area lot of good threads in the flight school forum here that will help.... and back in the old days the videos in the Finless Bob room where invaluable (a bit dated now as its all flybar based, but some of the build videos can still help you get to see what its like hand on building a kit)



Its a bit of an old fashioned answer, but one other piece of advice I will add: If you have the chance to, look for and visit a local RC club with members who fly helicopters. Being able to see the larger birds in action and get some face to face advice will help you better decide what direction you want to go in this hobby. There are many different flying styles (some people like whats called "smack 3D" - think bumble bee on steroids, some people like "big air" -smooth precise aerobatics, some people like scale flying) and what style interests you along with the area you have available to fly in will partially dictate what types/size of models you should be looking at to move up.

Also what radio brand to use is a big decision and it helps to get your hands on a few different sets and if you are going to fly with a club using the popular brand in your area has some advantages.

Good luck and welcome!
__________________
MA Whiplash Gas v2 | HelixHeli T700 Gas conversion | G500 Raw | Trex 450 Sport FBL | OMP M1
Futaba, Bavarian Demon, Hanson Engines| DIY Lithium field battery
jharkin is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply




Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the HeliFreak forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your REAL and WORKING email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. Use a real email address or you will not be granted access to the site. Thank you.
Email Address:
Location
Where do you live? ie: Country, State, City or General Geographic Location please.
Name and Lastname
Enter name and last name here. (This information is not shown to the general public. Optional)
Helicopter #1
Enter Helicopter #1 type and equipment.
Helicopter #2
Enter Helicopter #2 type and equipment.
Helicopter #3
Enter Helicopter #3 type and equipment.
Helicopter #4
Enter Helicopter #4 type and equipment.

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




Copyright © Website Acquisitions Inc. All rights reserved.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1