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Old 08-15-2014, 06:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to get stops more crisp

I am running an ikon on a trex600e, just seeing how I like the unit. when I go back into a rainbow, or a tick tock, the stops are not as crisp as I would like, like with the vbar or the Bavarian Demon. its almost like I have to force a hard stop instead of it just stopping like I want it to....is there a gain, or an option that I can check to help with this?

setup
Trex600e 6 cell
KDE 1175KV motor
cyclic servos are torque 9080's
tail servo is torque 9088

I am flying in 3D mode as of now. I will change the flight style in bank 3 to hardcore 3D and see if that helps (a fellow at IRCHA told me to try that, but I haven't had time yet).
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveToFly1 View Post
I am running an ikon on a trex600e, just seeing how I like the unit. when I go back into a rainbow, or a tick tock, the stops are not as crisp as I would like, like with the vbar or the Bavarian Demon. its almost like I have to force a hard stop instead of it just stopping like I want it to....is there a gain, or an option that I can check to help with this?

setup
Trex600e 6 cell
KDE 1175KV motor
cyclic servos are torque 9080's
tail servo is torque 9088

I am flying in 3D mode as of now. I will change the flight style in bank 3 to hardcore 3D and see if that helps (a fellow at IRCHA told me to try that, but I haven't had time yet).
In the basic(wizard) view, raise the cyclic gain found in the Flying Style Setup Menu. It will become more crisp and responsive.

Make sure you do the change in the proper bank.
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Old 08-16-2014, 01:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have been playing with my setup for about 50 flights now trying to achieve the same thing. While I feel that I have learned a lot about tuning PID's I haven't been able to achieve nice crisp stops either on the cyclic. When I stop rainbow it's not to bad, but when doing elevator tic tocs it's very noticeable. Also when I do aileron tic tocs the whole heli seems to bobble on the stops. I went as high as I could on the basic wizard gains and have been all over the place with the advanced pid's. My machine feels great and does everything else well, just can't get the crisp stops that even my 3gx can do in my smaller align machines.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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this seems to be a common complaint from some of the much better flyers i have talked with.

i set my banks to hardcore 3D, and i am much happier now with the stops.

if you are getting a "bobble" on your hard stops though, i would be willing to bet your going the wrong direction and your gain is too high...when you do elevator tick tocs, does the heli drift, or stay in the same place? if it is drifting without inputs from you, that is a sign of too high gain, a small bobble that is hard to detect with the eyes becomes much more noticeable in constant tick tocs like that, the bobble will cause the heli to drift. when it shakes it applies some aileron in the mix.
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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hey love to fly do you have cyclic servos torque 9080'sin your 600 i was planning putting these to my goblin 570 i was affraid it didnt have the torque for this size
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Old 09-25-2014, 10:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
 

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For stops try playing with the D gain. A lower D gain gives you harder stops, higher D gain will soften them.
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Old 09-25-2014, 01:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Maybe you've already done this but if not might try flying in fast forward flight level and while doing so pitch pump the heli.
If it purposes raise the head gain slider in the basic menu. Keep doing that till it maintains a good level rotor disc while doing that menuver. And if it's shimmering try lowering the same slider a hair.
After that then go to the working on the stops by lowering the D gain to stop harder or raising it if it's shimmering on stops.

That's how I've done mine and seem to be the most successful with.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out

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Old 10-06-2014, 08:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Im having problems with my tic tocs moving sideways.
I just checked my gains and the elevator is at a d gain is the stock set up at 55 but the aileron is only 5. Should I try increasing the aileron d gain?
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josericardone View Post
hey love to fly do you have cyclic servos torque 9080'sin your 600 i was planning putting these to my goblin 570 i was affraid it didnt have the torque for this size
yes, they have plenty of torque for a 600. i have actually flown them in 700 helis and had no issues at all.......enjoy them! if you need a set, PM me....

Quote:
Originally Posted by mamartin View Post
Maybe you've already done this but if not might try flying in fast forward flight level and while doing so pitch pump the heli.
If it purposes raise the head gain slider in the basic menu. Keep doing that till it maintains a good level rotor disc while doing that menuver. And if it's shimmering try lowering the same slider a hair.
After that then go to the working on the stops by lowering the D gain to stop harder or raising it if it's shimmering on stops.

That's how I've done mine and seem to be the most successful with.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
yea, i got it stopping better by just going to hard 3d settings actually. the head gain was a little temperamental to tune compared to other units i have tired. but man she feels good now!
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Old 10-15-2014, 03:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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ok i've been trying to tune my hard stops as I'm still getting wobble on the aleron in tic tocs. Im running it on a goblin 700 with torq servos and I've tried lowering my total cyclic pitch to just under 9.8 degrees and increasing the aleron d gain from 5 to 10 but nothing seems to change it. I have not tried lowering the aleron d gain below 5. Any recommendations would be appreciated as I'm the only heli guy at my field.


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Old 10-20-2014, 01:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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try lowering overall head gain a little. that is where i would start
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveToFly1 View Post
try lowering overall head gain a little. that is where i would start
ok today I tried increasing and decreasing my d gain and that wasn't the issue so I'm back at 5 d gain on the aileron. I did end up lowering the overall cyclic gain from 43 to 35 and it's much better. Aileron tic tocks aren't wobbling all over the place but it's still walking on elevator tic tocs. what should I do next?

am I really just fighting the rotor wash? I feel like my 450 tic tocs in place - does rotor wash affect a 700 more?
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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overall gain is what i was referring to. not individual gains.

you have to fly a tick toc for sure. nose right a little will keep the model from drifting to the left, but too much, and it will being to walk right. vise verse with nose left. if your not seeing a noticeable wobble on hard collective/cyclic stops (like in a tick toc), then you are more than likely just going to have to fly through it. but if your still bouncing around, then your model will move too.

my ikon physically broke on me yesterday. the USB port fell out of the damn thing. totally screwed everything up. i only got 3 flights on the bird. this sucks. i never expected a physical failure of any kind on any FBL unit. i will no longer be using Ikon units after this......
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I know it is another $ 30, but the Bluetooth module makes life so much easier. I use a Castle ESC and in comparison it is a real pain to have to plug in a cable every time.
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