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Compass 7HV, 7HVU and Chronos Compass Compass 7HV, 7HVU and Chronos Model Helicopter Discussion


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Old 04-21-2012, 11:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Feathering shaft removal - NOT!!!

Ok, I'm trying to remove my dampers to coat them with lithium grease, BUT...I can't even get the feathering shaft to spin inside the dampers to pull it out. Like, it doesn't even budge. Anyone else find this upon dissassembly?

Also, I recently packed my thrust bearing with grease, but after reassembling the grips onto the shaft, they rotate a little notchy when I snug the spindle bolts in. Why?
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you rotate them before greasing the thrust bearings to feel if they were smooth? I just did the same on my 6HV, and they too are notchy feeling with new dampers.


At any rate...spindle shaft is easier than you might think...but there is a big "but" (no jokes)...get one of the spindle wrenches...like Align or G-Force. I found that if I lubed the shaft on the end opposite the end from which I will pull it...the grease will lube that end. Then, place the wrench on the spindle and simply rotate it. You will find by applying a little bit of side effort while rotating, it will drift out as it rotates. Then, when re-installing after everything is lubed, I placed one damper on the shaft, and pressed it into the head while the shaft was already in the damper. A proper sized deep well socket makes it pretty easy to push the damper into the head. Then rotate the spindle with your wrench to get it close to proper position. Finally, lube up your other damper and spindle and press it on the other end...press it into the head with your socket. I then used my spindle wrench to center the spindle, again by rotating, until it measured the same on each end. The green dampers are very, very compressed, and I believe it's why there is so much preload on the bearings. I think it will reduce once they break-in.

Sorry for the lengthy reply. Dominik would be rolling his eyes
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I gave up trying to get my spindle out,just greased tthe outside and left it. Also found on one blade grip it was impossible to get the thrust bearings out so left that also, the other side was greased up pretty good so that satisfied me that the other one was the same.

I expect if you have notchiness, you have mixed up the thrust bearing washers, swap them and test again.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Once you install the grips, you can also pull them outward while twisting to see if they are still notchy. That way, you may find out they're not going to be notchy in flight.

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Old 04-21-2012, 11:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Drill a hole in a block of wood for the spindle to go into, and use a punch and hammer on the other side. Worked for me.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Rob, no apology needed for the in-depth reply. I prefer that type as it gives me all the important info needed to get the job done. NOW, do u have a method that dosen't include a spindle wrench for removal without damaging the spindle I knew I should've ordered one of those tooThe grips were not notchy before dissassembly. I prob shouldn't use notchy, just not as loose when I tighted the bolts in the grips.

@Cup, Trust me when I say, I am a stickler for detail like washer order. I've watched Finless Bob's vid for the 6HV head and followed it to a T. Plus, when I took everything out, I lay everything out in the order it's arranged from the factory. So like I said, the assembly was super smoooove when I took it out of the box, it just tightend up once I tighten the bolts down.
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I gave up trying to get my spindle out,just gresed tthe outside. Also found on ne blade grip it was impossible to get the thrust bearings out so left that also, the other side was greased up pretty good so that satisfied me that the other one was the same.

I expect if you have notchiness, you have mixed up the thrust bearing washers, swap them and test again.
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Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
Did you rotate them before greasing the thrust bearings to feel if they were smooth? I just did the same on my 6HV, and they too are notchy feeling with new dampers.


At any rate...spindle shaft is easier than you might think...but there is a big "but" (no jokes)...get one of the spindle wrenches...like Align or G-Force. I found that if I lubed the shaft on the end opposite the end from which I will pull it...the grease will lube that end. Then, place the wrench on the spindle and simply rotate it. You will find by applying a little bit of side effort while rotating, it will drift out as it rotates. Then, when re-installing after everything is lubed, I placed one damper on the shaft, and pressed it into the head while the shaft was already in the damper. A proper sized deep well socket makes it pretty easy to push the damper into the head. Then rotate the spindle with your wrench to get it close to proper position. Finally, lube up your other damper and spindle and press it on the other end...press it into the head with your socket. I then used my spindle wrench to center the spindle, again by rotating, until it measured the same on each end. The green dampers are very, very compressed, and I believe it's why there is so much preload on the bearings. I think it will reduce once they break-in.

Sorry for the lengthy reply. Dominik would be rolling his eyes
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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...EDIT- double post... stoopid smartphone
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVUSHELI View Post
Rob, no apology needed for the in-depth reply. I prefer that type as it gives me all the important info needed to get the job done. NOW, do u have a method that dosen't include a spindle wrench for removal without damaging the spindle I knew I should've ordered one of those tooThe grips were not notchy before dissassembly. I prob shouldn't use notchy, just not as loose when I tighted the bolts in the grips.

@Cup, Trust me when I say, I am a stickler for detail like washer order. I've watched Finless Bob's vid for the 6HV head and followed it to a T. Plus, when I took everything out, I lay everything out in the order it's arranged from the factory. So like I said, the assembly was super smoooove when I took it out of the box, it just tightend up once I tighten the bolts down.
If you don't have a fethering shaft wrench just put one of the spindle bolts in and use an allen wrench to turn the spindle. Works the same.

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Old 04-21-2012, 12:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So u basically hammered the spindle from the other side. /did u cover it with a towel or something? Great, now I have to take it back out of the main gear assembly. Should've thought about that during the mock assembly.
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Drill a hole in a block of wood for the spindle to go into, and use a punch and hammer on the other side. Worked for me.
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks BarnStormer, I just thought of that too I just gotta ask...where did BarnStormer come from? How'd you get that name? lol! I just keep picturing your helis continuously rippin through farmer Jon's barn lmao!
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If you don't have a fethering shaft wrench just put one of the spindle bolts in and use an allen wrench to turn the spindle. Works the same.

Jason
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Old 04-21-2012, 01:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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So u basically hammered the spindle from the other side. /did u cover it with a towel or something? Great, now I have to take it back out of the main gear assembly. Should've thought about that during the mock assembly.
I used a small punch that went all the way into the threads. Use a silicon spray or grease to ease the pain
Heat gun might be useful as well if its that stubborn
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Old 04-21-2012, 02:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Yup, that worked!

The screw in the spindle worked. Tight as a mofo, but it worked. I dont think I'm going to take the dampers out to grease them up though. Those suckers are in there, and my O ring puller would slice right through them. Thanks BarnStormer
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks BarnStormer, I just thought of that too I just gotta ask...where did BarnStormer come from? How'd you get that name? lol! I just keep picturing your helis continuously rippin through farmer Jon's barn lmao!
I have a 2 story barn! When I got started with co-ax I would fly in my barn all the time. I even hooked up a cold string light on my cx2 and would fly in and out of the barn at night. lol
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The screw in the spindle worked. Tight as a mofo, but it worked. I dont think I'm going to take the dampers out to grease them up though. Those suckers are in there, and my O ring puller would slice right through them. Thanks BarnStormer

Glad I could help bro!
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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One other thing...the grip bearings and thrust bearings are snug. I used a heat gun to heat the grip while tapping the blade end of the grip on table against a towel. I grasped the grip assembly by the pitch arm. Everything dropped out with little fuss.

Heat guns have been indespensible for helicopter maintenance for me!

The allen wrench in the spindle bolt trick is excellent. It works very well.
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ahh I had hoped it was actually something to do with a barn lol.
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I have a 2 story barn! When I got started with co-ax I would fly in my barn all the time. I even hooked up a cold string light on my cx2 and would fly in and out of the barn at night. lol
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:28 PM   #17 (permalink)
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There is a very simple trick. Just add some dish soap on the shaft. As soon the soap is between shaft and PU it will be super easy to slide it out.

We are sorry, that the KBDD dampeners just fit so solid in position but from all diffrent dampeners we tested, it is just the best. I used one set of dampeners for over 400 flights!
I don't know any other dampener with a livetime like that!


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Old 04-21-2012, 10:19 PM   #18 (permalink)
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How do you get the dampers out from the head? They seemed like they are glued in there they're so tight! Can you give me a simple trick to solve the problem from my other post? Why one of my grip yokes binds up when the screw is tightened and the little brass washers are in place.
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Originally Posted by Sebastian Zajonz View Post
There is a very simple trick. Just add some dish soap on the shaft. As soon the soap is between shaft and PU it will be super easy to slide it out.

We are sorry, that the KBDD dampeners just fit so solid in position but from all diffrent dampeners we tested, it is just the best. I used one set of dampeners for over 400 flights!
I don't know any other dampener with a livetime like that!


Greetings
Sebastian
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:52 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian Zajonz View Post
There is a very simple trick. Just add some dish soap on the shaft. As soon the soap is between shaft and PU it will be super easy to slide it out.

We are sorry, that the KBDD dampeners just fit so solid in position but from all diffrent dampeners we tested, it is just the best. I used one set of dampeners for over 400 flights!
I don't know any other dampener with a livetime like that!


Greetings
Sebastian
Why can't we have them use silicone grease at the factory when assembeling? I got my fethering shaft out no problem but there was no way to remove the dampers from the head without damaging them. I ended up ordering a new set from nankin. A small amount of silicone grease at the factory and the dampers would never stick! This may seem like a small thing but it can really piss people off that are new to compass and KBDD (ask me how I know).


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Old 04-22-2012, 10:34 AM   #20 (permalink)
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+1. This is my first Compass bird and after not being able to pull the dampers out with my fingers, I gave up and just greased them in the head. I know once they're dead, it'll be a torn damper coming out cause my oring puller is like a dental pick. Just a little grease would be nice. Same with adding a small tube of thrust bearing oil or grease in the kit. At least then, a Compass newb won't have to guess what will work best. I think the bearing grease I've used in my grips may be a little too thick, hence the smooth stiffness after tightening the main bolts. I have a feeling after the 7HV is done and barely fits in my car....a 6HV may be in the works
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Originally Posted by BarnStormer View Post
Why can't we have them use silicone grease at the factory when assembeling? I got my fethering shaft out no problem but there was no way to remove the dampers from the head without damaging them. I ended up ordering a new set from nankin. A small amount of silicone grease at the factory and the dampers would never stick! This may seem like a small thing but it can really piss people off that are new to compass and KBDD (ask me how I know).


Jason
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