How to - 12s T-Rex 600 Setup On A Budget.

[rceccleston]

Due to popular demand from fellow UK pilots, an 'How to - 12s T-Rex 600 Setup On A Budget' has been launched, on our well known forum.

http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/t-rex-...up-budget.html

Hopefully this should allow fellow UK pilots to meet up at local events and drool over the power these reborn models can put down.

[adroc3905]

Originally Posted by rceccleston

Prior to giving you a detailed response I would need to know what revision your esc is running.

Please post a copy of your configuration in plan text.

Actually my ESC setup is a mirror image of yours listed on the first page of this thread but I now have autorotation enabled. The firmware is v3.2.

I am not saying I am totally right but now you have me wondering if my TH is where I needs it to be............although it does work.

My original response was simply stating that had TH been setup prior to ESC calibration, the tail blade attacking incident could have been avoided. TH would have still worked in an effective manner on the bench. I am proof of that as I use -5 (straight line) when I do mini autos or during lipo connecting.

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by adroc3905

Actually my ESC setup is a mirror image of yours listed on the first page of this thread but I now have autorotation enabled. The firmware is v3.2.

I am not saying I am totally right but now you have me wondering if my TH is where I needs it to be............although it does work.

My original response was simply stating that had TH been setup prior to ESC calibration, the tail blade attacking incident could have been avoided. TH would have still worked in an effective manner on the bench. I am proof of that as I use -5 (straight line) when I do mini autos or during lipo connecting.

No problem.

However, since the version 3.11 the throttle hold creates a small positive window above 0 for a 'hard start', else a throttle hold value below zero will arm the esc and cause a 'soft start' in auto-rotations.

NOTE: Auto-Rotation Setup Changes
"In the new release the helicopter auto-rotation feature has been improved, however setups that were working before will still work in the same manner. The lower range or the -0- throttle has become more defined and with this you may have to recalibrate your throttle settings if your ESC will not arm. The auto-rotation feature has also been improved and the setup range has been expanded. With the new release the ESC will not arm if it is in a condition that could HARD START or start in the Auto-Recovery mode ( in prior releases the ESC could slow start the first time and hard start after the initial spool up). You will have to satisfy a -0- condition before the ESC will arm. The ESC must see -0- throttle to get to a soft start condition. The auto-rotation recovery mode is not in a range that can arm the ESC now."

For example, on my DX7, the low throttle end point is 135 with 93 on the hight and the throttle hold is +9.5%.

The throttle hold value of +9.5% is the point at which my motor will stop spinning and use the 'head speed change rate' to perform a 'hard start' to the desired headspeed.

[adroc3905]

Ok I understand now. So if my low throttle is 142 then what should my TH be set too? Similar to yours? So the "hard start" feature is in case a quick bailout of autorotation is necessary. It basically overrides the softstart feature. Is that correct?

Is there a way to figure out the best TH number as each tx may have different low endpoints. I also use a DX7.

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by adroc3905

Ok I understand now. So if my low throttle is 142 then what should my TH be set too? Similar to yours? So the "hard start" feature is in case a quick bailout of autorotation is necessary. It basically overrides the softstart feature. Is that correct?

Is there a way to figure out the best TH number as each tx may have different low endpoints. I also use a DX7.

Your throttle hold value maybe similar, by a 0.5-1%, but may not be the same.

To setup your throttle hold:-

• Remove your blades and back the motor off from the main gear,
• Set your throttle hold value to +15%
• Run the motor as slowly in fixed end points,
• Switch to throttle hold, which may cause the motor to run faster,
• Decrease the throttle hold value slowly by 0.5% increments until the motor stops,
• Now the motor has stopped, switching throttle hold off should cause the motor to preform a 'hard start' back to the previous throttle input.
• Set the 'head speed change rate' between 10-14 to define how fast the motor recovers to the previous throttle input.

Good luck and remember to back the motor off.

[adroc3905]

"Head speed change rate from 10-14"..........is that in the ESC configuration using the CC link?

Thanks for all your help.

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by adroc3905

"Head speed change rate from 10-14"..........is that in the ESC configuration using the CC link?

Thanks for all your help.

Yes, set the value between 10 - 14, where a higher value will recover faster.

[povern]

Originally Posted by rceccleston

Yes, set the value between 10 - 14, where a higher value will recover faster.

Has anyone stripped a main or TT gear with that number too high?

[rbgrn]

Hey guys, just wanted to give you my pinion and dampener report:

My initial flights were with the black stock dampeners and a 13 tooth pinion. Running 100% flat throttle, we tached the head at 2200 at pack start falling to 2090 at the end. The heli flew well but was nothing to brag about. It was a good flying heli. Did not have the insane 12s power that I have seen in videos and heard about. Was also a little sloppy in the air, especially in rainbows, tocs and hard cyclic/collective jams.

Today I switched to a 14 tooth pinion and also changed to the green trueblood dampeners. Before I give numbers, let me say, HOLY ****. Now that's a powerful heli. Head tached to 2400RPM at 100% in hover. I dialed it down to 97.5% which should be 2350. The dampeners made a big difference too. The heli was much tighter, much more precise and much more fun. I threw the thing around the field like it was a plastic bag on a windy day. Super, super fun. Highly recommended for those wanting to push harder 3D. The only downside is a 4 minute flight on a pair of 2650s and a 4:30 flight on 3000s, but it's a very exciting 4 minutes

[minimalitia1]

i dont understand how you and other ppl are running a 12t or 13t or 14t and the heli is crazy fast. but i have a 15t and my heli seems like yours as you described it with the 13t. i feel like my heli needs a 16t.

oh and i have kbdd dampeners in my head.

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by minimalitia1

i dont understand how you and other ppl are running a 12t or 13t or 14t and the heli is crazy fast. but i have a 15t and my heli seems like yours as you described it with the 13t. i feel like my heli needs a 16t.

oh and i have kbdd dampeners in my head.

What packs are you running, how many cycles have they had and are they shared between models??

[minimalitia1]

i am running turnigy 3000 6s 35c and a set of blue lipo 3300 6s 30c. all these lipos have 5-7 flights on them and all were on a 12s 600.

i also have a set of turnigy 2650 6s 20c from my buddies trex 500. with about 15 flights on them from the 500 and about 4 flights on my 12s. these i fly my first flight with and fly easy. like a break in flight for the day.

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by minimalitia1

i am running turnigy 3000 6s 35c and a set of blue lipo 3300 6s 30c. all these lipos have 5-7 flights on them and all were on a 12s 600.

i also have a set of turnigy 2650 6s 20c from my buddies trex 500. with about 15 flights on them from the 500 and about 4 flights on my 12s. these i fly my first flight with and fly easy. like a break in flight for the day.

Running 20c packs will cause the headspeed to bog very easily, so your right to run them very gentle, else they puff very soon.

30c+ packs should maintain their headspeed with minimal bog under load.

Manufactures allow for 5% tolerance in KV rating so yours could possible be performing at 598.5kv at very worse.

Please could you post a copy of your configuration with firmware revision.

[SkinWalk3r]

ok.so all this is BUDGET 12s...what would be done differently for the Cadillac/Mercedes 12s setup ?

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by SkinWalk3r

ok.so all this is BUDGET 12s...what would be done differently for the Cadillac/Mercedes 12s setup ?

Kontronnik ESC with a Kontronnik or Neu motor, Thunder Power packs etc.. very costly...

[SkinWalk3r]

Originally Posted by rceccleston

Kontronnik ESC with a Kontronnik or Neu motor, very costly...

thats it ? everything else would be the same ?

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by SkinWalk3r

thats it ? everything else would be the same ?

KDE upgrades all round, gold plated head..

[SkinWalk3r]

Originally Posted by rceccleston

KDE upgrades all round, gold plated head..

lol..I hear ya...I was just wondering if the non -budget gave better performance..thats all. Doesnt sound like it...btw does putting in the BOCA bearing give any descernable benefits like higher HS or longer flights ?

[rbgrn]

Originally Posted by SkinWalk3r

lol..I hear ya...I was just wondering if the non -budget gave better performance..thats all. Doesnt sound like it...btw does putting in the BOCA bearing give any descernable benefits like higher HS or longer flights ?

Lots of folks say that the kontronik ESCs do just kind of run better in general, though I haven't had my hands on one to be able to see for myself.

The cadillac 12s would probably be a 3G or vbar FBL machine with a Neu or kontronik motor and a Kontronik Jive 80HV running governed 2250 with 2x40c 3000 packs. Radix or whatever your preferred 600 blades, either BLS253 or 8717HV cyclic servos and a BLS251 on the tail. Did I miss anything?

The boca ultra bearings do one thing - be maintenance free. They should have no impact on flight time or performance. BTW - I'm just waiting for my scorpion bearings to fail and already have 30 flights with no squeaking yet.

[adroc3905]

I upgraded to the Boca Bearing ceramic lightning before my first spool up as I was already swapping out my 5mm shaft for a 6mm one anyways. I think they run like $10 each. For me, $20 was a cheap piece of mind. I also am running a 14T and the head speed rocks. Rolls, flips and loops like my 500. I love my new 12s 600.