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HBFP V1/V2 E-Sky Honey Bee V1 & V2 Fixed Pitch |
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08-25-2009, 02:59 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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Thanks nuttcaze. I watched these when I started with my HBFP and they are invaluable.
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Cheers, Bugster |
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09-07-2009, 03:48 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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Just hovered my V2 in the garden this evening and I really like it the more I fly it
Apologies for the poor video quality, unfortunately my Samsung camcorder appears to have gone AWOL - think it was nicked from the car - so I've had to press back into service an aging JVC that will only run off a mains supply And yep I crashed it 3 times earlier today when it was really too breezy to fly. Twice into trees and one real hard one into the fence. Result 2 broken ringlikes. I'm not unhappy about that. I tried flying it on just one ringlike (you can get away with this on the V1) but it made the strangest whirring noise and refused to take off. Oh and finally the canopy is much more durable than the V1. 3 crashes and not a single scratch or split and I know the Vi canopy would have been badly damaged today. This is definitely a tougher bird than the V1
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Cheers, Bugster |
09-08-2009, 03:09 AM | #23 (permalink) |
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Hmm....
Considering Spektrumising the HBFP now I've seen NC's vid!
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450 Bell 222, 450 Jet Ranger, HBFP Redbee Extreme, 500 size Blackhawk MH-60, 600 EP Spitfire, Sebart 342 30e, Davy Systems Flybaby, ST Models FW190, Micro SU26 & GWS P38. DX7s |
09-08-2009, 03:49 PM | #24 (permalink) |
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Thanks for that Bugster. However you haven't convinced me to shelve my V1 and buy a V2.
Great nose in there and loved the piro's. I'm not sure if it flies better than a V1 as you fly better than me anyway By the way, I know your intention wasn't to get people to shelve a V1 and get a V2. I just don' t think a good V1 flyer should get one. A CP has to be a next step for them??
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Cheers, OD. If you make a mistake and learn from it, that's progress 2 x Nano heli's - now passed on to Megan, HoneyBee V1.....Awaiting test flight, T-Rex 250 V1, Hitec 5084MG tail servo, DX6i, Walkera 4#3A (it's in fairly good hands Bugster). |
09-08-2009, 04:01 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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Hi od. Thanks but if the flying appeared good it was down to some serious heavy editing
I agree there's no need to upgrade from a V1 to V2 - the benefits outweigh the price difference at the mo. Just that I've proved to my satisfaction that a newbie shouldn't be frightened of the V2 now it's 11.1 volt and heavier - the performance is still similar. But and it's a big BUT I'm sure it's a helluvalot tougher and bounces even better than the V1 so resists accident damage better. And that's going to save a newb money for parts and repair time. I've got to go away for a few days later this month and it will be the V2 smuggled in with the luggage
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Cheers, Bugster |
09-09-2009, 03:26 PM | #27 (permalink) |
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Thanks for these videos guys, really helped me figure out what to look for.
I made a little checklist of stuff I saw I needed to change, like leveling the swashplate (I think, see picture), check the tracking, balance the battery forward, and angle the paddles. My rotors seemed to be perfectly balanced without me having to add tape: I'm unsure if this is enough to re-balance the swashplate though, and the picture doesn't really show it as well as I can see: The left side seems lower to me. It's not bad from the front though. |
09-09-2009, 04:14 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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Looks good to me berfles.
Are you going to follow the Radds school of flying method ? It's worked well for a lot of folks
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Cheers, Bugster |
09-09-2009, 04:27 PM | #29 (permalink) |
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Is it my eyes or does that swash look a little low at the rear???
Bearing in mind i have had a couple of celebratory ciders on the back of the football!
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Honeybee FP (King 2 Skids & Battery Hanger, XTreme DD Tail, 380x Motor, Fuse Mod, XTreme Fibre Blades, LBA, XTreme Battery/4in1 Mount, XTreme Carbon Fibre Boom, King 2 Boom Supports & Fins) HK450 ( A work in Progress) Twister Hawk Co-Ax (Stock), |
09-09-2009, 04:29 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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Football ?? Have I missed something
Yes I looked at the swash but reckon it's just camera angle.
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Cheers, Bugster |
09-09-2009, 04:52 PM | #31 (permalink) | |
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Quote:
So the swash is alright? It does look a little low on the left side, or isn't it bad enough to warrant an adjustment? I've seen the Radd's School of Flying site, but I didn't get too far in. I was skidding around on my training kit and not having any success lifting off (instantly went left even with right cyclic) so I thought maybe the training kit was off center and removed it. I haven't tried since, but I'll probably look at the Radd's site again and try to follow that. I don't think my garage is big enough to practice in either. |
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09-10-2009, 05:56 AM | #32 (permalink) |
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Hi there,
If by left side, you mean left side of the photo (back of the heli), then yes, I think your swash needs raising at the back (actually, lowering at the front). The best way to level the swash is as follows: Remove the blades (for safety). Make sure all the trims and sticks on the transmitter are centered (except the throttle stick and trim which should be fully down),switch on the transmitter (Tx) and connect the battery. This should then centre the servos. If the servos are not centreed, you can undo the screw in the middle of the servo horn, slip the servo horn off and try and refit it centred. Due to the gripes of the servo horn (splines) it is not usually possible to get it exact...don't worry too much, get it as close as you can. Then, with all the power still on, you can shorten the connecting rod from the servo to the swash, by popping the top off the ball link on the swash and screwing it down. To lengthen an arm, unscrew it. This change in length alters the angle of the swash. You do it with the ower on, to ensure that the servos are in the position they would be during flight. With a level swash, you should find the heli much more stable. Hope this helps.
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450 Bell 222, 450 Jet Ranger, HBFP Redbee Extreme, 500 size Blackhawk MH-60, 600 EP Spitfire, Sebart 342 30e, Davy Systems Flybaby, ST Models FW190, Micro SU26 & GWS P38. DX7s |
09-10-2009, 01:09 PM | #33 (permalink) | |
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Quote:
Since the rear is a bit lower, is that why it was flying backward into my as soon as I took off a few inches? |
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09-10-2009, 02:30 PM | #34 (permalink) |
Join Date: Aug 2009
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ok
Last edited by twistedminds; 09-14-2009 at 03:14 PM.. |
09-10-2009, 02:32 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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You can't raise the rear, as there is no servo there to adjust!
And yes, a backwards tilting swash will make you fly backwards. HOWEVER, when you are close to the ground (anything up to about 1 metre), you will experience ground effect. This is the downwash from the rotors coming back off the ground and swirling around. When you are in ground effect, two things happen; the heli will be a bit more unstable and it will predominantly want to move to the left and backwards. Once you get above 1 metre, this starts to diminish. This effect is common to all helis, including reall full size ones, although as their rotors turn the other way and the tail rotor is mounted on the other side, they would tend to drift right. Pilots learn to cope with this and you will eventually automatically give the cyclic stick a bit of "right" to counteract it. All that said, the swash being out would cause you to drift at any height and would increase the drift from ground effect. Your swash should be level both front to back and right to left! HTH and good luck. Ask any questions you want...someone here should be able to help!
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450 Bell 222, 450 Jet Ranger, HBFP Redbee Extreme, 500 size Blackhawk MH-60, 600 EP Spitfire, Sebart 342 30e, Davy Systems Flybaby, ST Models FW190, Micro SU26 & GWS P38. DX7s Last edited by Luke Warmwater; 09-14-2009 at 04:21 AM.. |
09-10-2009, 02:55 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Quote:
Ah, I thought that may be the case but I couldn't remember what it looked like without it in front of me And somehow I didn't see my own friggin picture right above there I'll be sure to level it when I get home and make sure my blade tracking is better too, it's too hard to see where I've been testing so I need a white backdrop or something. Thanks for all the info |
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11-30-2009, 09:48 AM | #37 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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OD I'm impressed you still have the graphics on your blades I thought I'd pop in and say hello
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11-30-2009, 09:54 AM | #38 (permalink) |
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Hey Dalerst - good to see you here and yes we remember the graphics well. Same faces here plus a lot of new friends - same off beat banter so nothing's changed. What are you flying now ?
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Cheers, Bugster |
11-30-2009, 10:30 AM | #39 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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Cheers Bugster After about 4 months off the heli stuff due to frustration with the interference on the 35Mhz bee, in the last week or so I have just upgraded to 2.4Ghz and I'm on it again, and not giving up this time I'm also looking in to a 4#3B for some winter indoor flying as the bee is a bit big for my Living room. |
12-02-2009, 04:50 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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Where abouts are you in Nottingham Dale? Do you know Cromwell Road opposite the cemetry?
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Cheers, OD. If you make a mistake and learn from it, that's progress 2 x Nano heli's - now passed on to Megan, HoneyBee V1.....Awaiting test flight, T-Rex 250 V1, Hitec 5084MG tail servo, DX6i, Walkera 4#3A (it's in fairly good hands Bugster). |
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