cnc questions... advice needed

[spoonerrw]

i got my full cnc set and have it installed with the bell hiller. there sure seems to be a lot of slop in the center hub on the main shaft even with the bolt tight. is this normal? i followed the directions for the bell hiller and put the 3.5mm thread clearance between the control rod ends for each arm and the install went pretty smoothly. the swashplate is leveled and i used a CF flybar that i matched in length to the one that Hankster sent me. i went with the super paddles and have everything set. i did a few initial hovers in my living room and it is very touchy, which i expected, but it also wants to float around and is a bit hard to hold in one place. i am sure that rotor wash from the floor and furniture is playing a part here, but i can usually hold a decent hover with my green Bee. i am not using any DR or Expo and not sure if is should?
my main concern at this point is the slop in the rotor head on the shaft which is about 3-4 inches at the tip of the superblades where the green one is only a couple inches or less, which is the stock hub with the little pin. i am afraid to try and crank that little bolt and nut down, and i have it cranked pretty tight as it is.
i am looking for advice from those of you who use or have used this cnc set to see if this is slop is normal, but also advice on what to expect once i get it outside and put it in the air. this is on my custom Stinger and i definitely do not want to destroy it, but i also really want to give this set up a try .
thanks
edit: after checking over everything, it looks like the slop is actually in the T-slot of the main gear and i may just change that gear out. there is a little slop in the center hub, but no different than the stock one with the pin.

[HELIHANKSTER]

Glad you found the source of the extra slop. And yes the slop in the Xteme cnc head is normal. There is a little play between the hub and shaft on the Xtreme cnc setup. It’s do to the fact that the bolt hole in the shaft is larger then the bolt used to secure the hub to the shaft. Once the blades start moving, the hub locks in and will be fine. The super paddles are small and lite and will make the Bee very sensitive to movement. I would replace them with larger/heavier paddles and see if that helps.

[spoonerrw]

thanks Hankster . yeah, the center hub play was very minimal once i realized how much of this was actually the T-slot. the pin in that slot was too loose but the slop in the hole of the shaft for it was present as well adding to the effect. the rotor head actually moved a total of 6 inches at the blade tips before the gear engaged the pinion! i had it out today for a few batteries and it was simply uncontrollable. i tried everything including adding DR and expo, but nothing helped. i have seen people flying the Bee with this set up, but i honestly dont know how? the presence of the feathering shaft isnt helping me and that is for sure, but i expected that would be the case again and was hoping that the bell hiller would balance that out... it didnt . i cant imagine i had the bell hiller set up wrong as i followed the directions to the letter, and to be honest, unless the measurement of 3.5mm is wrong for this version 2 blade grip... there isnt any other way to set it up wrong?

i tore it back down and i checked the slot of that gear with a stock shaft that had the pin still pressed in and i actually had to tap it in to seat it, and there was no movement of any kind. this has presented me with a simple choice... keeping trying to dial it in knowing that there is slim to no chance of that... or... put it back the way it was and enjoy it. i chose the latter. i would rather have it flying like it was and perfectly smooth and stable, then to have it more responsive and not flying at all. i kept the cnc swashplate, OPCD, and the shorter flybar with the super paddles and re-set it back up again. i havent flown it outside yet, but in the living room it is smooth and stable just like it was before. i agree and i really do not like the small size of the super paddles but i have to use them to use the shorter CF flybar until i can find a set that attaches by "grip" like the ones you sent me and about that same size as they are.

i am going to look at other options to eliminate that feathering shaft like you experimented with. my idea is to cut an old shaft long enough to go through both sides of the center hub, just far enough out that i can put clip locks around the end of the exposed shaft, or maybe drill tiny holes on the ends and use spring clips? not sure yet, but those are the two ideas i am tossing around. i think the key here with doing this is that the shaft will be there, but also be able to move freely without coming out.
when you tested the original idea Hankster... how badly did it handle? i know you said you couldnt get it stable, but just how unstable was it? i have plenty of bell hiller parts to play with now and since i have the cnc swashplate on it... i am also going to try again and duplicate you set up which is working out great on the green Bee .

thanks Brother, i appreciate all your help