BeastX V3 Tuning Guide Updated

[marioa111]

Should I run precomp on my 450? Or is it for nitro heli's? Also when I'm doing tic
Tocs I notice it takes a long time to transition from positive to negative. I'm moving the sticks as fast as I can but it just slow in the center. Any ideas?

[nwmtech]

Precomp has nothing to do with what kind or size of heli you have. The MB tail is perfectly fine for most people in stock form but Precomp will indeed give you that last 5%

MB will not affect collective. Headspeed, blades, pitch ranges, etc. are the biggest contributing factors in how the collective feels.

[gfasbend]

Hi all,

I use the beast for my 600 scale machine. Flying goes pretty well, but I have one effect that I have not yet found a solution for.
When I go up high in the sky and then get the machine down in a straight vertical line, the heli begins to oscillate a little on the elevator or aileron axis.
This stops when you give pitch again.
It seems a little the same as CyclicPilot had I guess.

I tried turning down Pot 1 and turn up Pot 2 a little. My idea was that that would decrease the gain and overrule the control loop a little. But so far this has not solved the problem.

Do you think this is the correct way and I should continue to try combinations of pot 1 and 2? Or is there another secret that can solve this?

Regards
Guido

[DannyvG]

is your headspeed increasing while descending?
That could call for lowering pot 1.

[gfasbend]

Not that I mentioned, but then the governor will react probably.
I've flown now with pot 1 totally to the left (min) and still it's very sensitive to wind.
When I hover in the garden without any wind, it's perfectly stable.
But when going out with some wind, you see it react on every blow.

It would be nice to see the beast reacting on external influences, but it seems like it's over-reacting and causing a little wobble.
When the effect is damped out, it's stable again.

Maybe the beast is just not suited for larger scale machines?

[mgorgis]

I have a microbeast v2 on my Trex 600N and Trex 500 and they work very good out of the box except for a strange behaviour which is so the 600N "pulls" left as if I was giving left cyclic and no, it is not the "normal" left drift all newbies face :-)
There is no trim or subtrim för aileron and this happens both in hover and FFF

The 500 does the same but pulls right side so I need constantly to give left cyclic input!

I will have to do both mechanical and beastx setup again but I was thinking if it was something eler that could save my the re-setup!

[mahbouni]

I've been using the extreme (blue flashing led) preset control behavior. If I change it to transmitter mode then which chanel in my Tx will be used for the control behavior value?

[alexf1852]

Originally Posted by mahbouni

I've been using the extreme (blue flashing led) preset control behavior. If I change it to transmitter mode then which chanel in my Tx will be used for the control behavior value?

You use expo and D/R on your TX. I believe that is all the presets are, just internal expo and D/R settings.

[mahbouni]

I see. OK thanks I'll give it a try

[clicky]

Originally Posted by alexf1852

You use expo and D/R on your TX. I believe that is all the presets are, just internal expo and D/R settings.

I thought so as well, but each time I asked BeastX team they said it is more (or they just didn't want to reveal the values they've stored internally - which I wouldn't understand why).

For references see this forum - near the beginning or their web site...

[mahbouni]

One thing I don't like so far about BsastX is that there is a lot of latency in responding to my inputs. I've noticed this on both my Protos and my T-Rex 250. I input full elevator to do a flip and it starts moving a fraction of a second later. Once it gets going it's pretty quick but doing tictocs requires some thinking ahead. I tried zero expo in my Tx but it didn't speed it up enough. I'm hoping that if I use transmitter mode it will become more responsive.

My Logos, 450 Pro and Gaui 255 used to be even worse when they had Vbar 5.0 but after upgrading to 5.1 and setting the paddle simulation to 40, the latency mostly went away.

[alexf1852]

Originally Posted by mahbouni

One thing I don't like so far about BsastX is that there is a lot of latency in responding to my inputs. I've noticed this on both my Protos and my T-Rex 250. I input full elevator to do a flip and it starts moving a fraction of a second later. Once it gets going it's pretty quick but doing tictocs requires some thinking ahead. I tried zero expo in my Tx but it didn't speed it up enough. I'm hoping that if I use transmitter mode it will become more responsive.

My Logos, 450 Pro and Gaui 255 used to be even worse when they had Vbar 5.0 but after upgrading to 5.1 and setting the paddle simulation to 40, the latency mostly went away.

I noticed the exact same thing on my Protos. Upping Dial 2 has no noticeable effect unless Dial 1 is lower. At least that's what I think I remember when I was fiddling with settings.

[nwmtech]

Originally Posted by mahbouni

One thing I don't like so far about BsastX is that there is a lot of latency in responding to my inputs. I've noticed this on both my Protos and my T-Rex 250. I input full elevator to do a flip and it starts moving a fraction of a second later. Once it gets going it's pretty quick but doing tictocs requires some thinking ahead. I tried zero expo in my Tx but it didn't speed it up enough. I'm hoping that if I use transmitter mode it will become more responsive.

My Logos, 450 Pro and Gaui 255 used to be even worse when they had Vbar 5.0 but after upgrading to 5.1 and setting the paddle simulation to 40, the latency mostly went away.

Are you using TX mode for the control behavior? Where's Pot #2 and Pot#1. If you set Pot#1 just low enough where it doesn't drift in a hover or feel weird and start increasing Pot#2 you should get a super responsive heli. It's easy for me to get my 700n too responsive using that method.

[mahbouni]

Originally Posted by nwmtech

Are you using TX mode for the control behavior? Where's Pot #2 and Pot#1. If you set Pot#1 just low enough where it doesn't drift in a hover or feel weird and start increasing Pot#2 you should get a super responsive heli. It's easy for me to get my 700n too responsive using that method.

No I'm using the Extreme (blue flashing) preset control behavior. I'm going to try TX mode soon. I don't have the heli infront of me now but I think pot 1 is not too high and pot 2 is quite high. I'll try redoing the gain as you suggest

[nwmtech]

Definitely run TX mode! That will make a huge difference.

[MeekaMoMo]

I am getting a ot of driffting in the hover,do i turn up pot 1,many thank's.


Your's,Marty.

[nwmtech]

First make sure you're not using the stock mounting pad. Only gray 3m double sided tape. Then from there dial up pot 1 if you still have any drifting.

[smaze17]

Ok guys so I am having a bit of an issue. I have gone over the tuning guide with a fine toothed comb but I can't seem to get it right.

It's kind of hard to explain but with my 450 Sport when I do a quick descent then pump the collective hard it pulls rather drastically to the left, i.e. hard left cyclic. I guess you could say the cyclic bobbles. I am in transmitter mode with 120% ATV on aileron and elevator and 20% expo on both.

I'm not really sure where to begin.

Thanks for the help!

S

[nwmtech]

Couple things come to mind....

Weak cyclic servos
Too soft mounting tape (make sure to run gray 3M)
Too low pot #1

[smaze17]

Thanks for the response Nick. I don't think it's the servos as I am running the Spektrum H3000's which have 30oz of torque and I am using the 3M 4011 tape with pot 1 at 3 clicks of negative. I will raise up pot 1 maybe to the factory setting of 0 and see what happens.

S