450L radio help

[kfjensen]

The tail won't move when in heading hold mode(green led on gpro). You can set the gyro to something like negative 70 in hold mode to test before each flight.

[alyon187]

Kind of just spitballing here but I seem to remember a post someone wrote awhile ago that mentioned that itll be like that til the heli spools up to speed then you'll have fill range of motion. Try spooling it up without the blades to test this.

If that doesnt work then did you make sure to save before exiting the set up portion of the program?

[digital911]

Originally Posted by alyon187

Kind of just spitballing here but I seem to remember a post someone wrote awhile ago that mentioned that itll be like that til the heli spools up to speed then you'll have fill range of motion. Try spooling it up without the blades to test this.

If that doesnt work then did you make sure to save before exiting the set up portion of the program?

Yes I did just that and I still get virtually no tail movement.

[digital911]

Originally Posted by kfjensen

The tail won't move when in heading hold mode(green led on gpro). You can set the gyro to something like negative 70 in hold mode to test before each flight.

Please elaborate on how to set it to negative 70 for testing, thanks.

[digital911]

Originally Posted by alyon187

1, you can take the owb hub out and screw it back in evenly to help reduce this wobble of the main gear. Other wise ive heard of people putting them in hot water to soften them up and then putting them on a flat surface as they cool to get them flat again. Although most wobble a lil bit. Also, dont over tighten the lower owb shaft, it can warp it and cause a wobble and or vibes at high rpm.

OK so a little wobble is typical? I just think any little wobble will be bad at full RPM. So you're saying line up the main gear and auto rotation gear holes and replace lower jesus bolt?
Also, I did not over tighten the bottom jesus bolt so I am sure I didn't warp anything from that.

[quote=Not sure on 2, never used gpro

3, it it spins some the stops abruptly you might have the main shaft shimmed too much, put enough to take up all up and down play but not so much that its hard to put the bottom jesus bolt in. If all is done correctly and its still doesnt spin smoothly for very long your mesh in the drive train is prob a bit tight. Ive had this issue before and it went away after a few flights cuz it allowed the gears to get worn in.

Hope this helps![/quote]

I have tested this without blades and it does not stop abruptly but it doesn't keep spinning for as long as I think it should. Now with blades I'm sure it's going to spin longer due to the inertia of the blades. Maybe it's just tight like you said and needs to break in... I oiled everything well with light weight oil. Didn't over tighten the rotation gear just as the manual stated. I guess worse case I can purchase another lower gear assembly..

BTW, sorry for the messed up multiquote..

[alyon187]

Yah a lil wobble is normal.

When you slide in the main shaft after putting together the main and auto gear you need to line up the shaft hole w the one way bearing sleeve. When you slid in the jesus bolt it needs to go In smoothly meaning not cocked to the side so that its not straining or pulling down on the main shaft. But make sure you have a shim between the shaft collar and the top bearing block. This will take out any up and down play from the lower jesus bolt and the upper bearing block.

It will spin alot more niece your tail and main blades are on. I thought you already had your blades on and it wasn't spinning much. But with new gears after a few flights the gears will start to wear in a bit and the mesh will smooth out.

[kfjensen]

Originally Posted by digital911

Please elaborate on how to set it to negative 70 for testing, thanks.

In your transmitter you assign a gyro gain to the gear channel. Then you assign a switch to it. Ie: flight mode. You then can assign a different gyro value for each headspeed as well as hold mode.

[digital911]

OK thanks for all the advice on the tail, now I'm back to the swashplate setup...

I'm at the point where I'm setting up my Gpro and I'm in the menu labeled:

Swashplate (4th blue dot on the bottom), then Collective trim 0 degrees. I've already leveled my swash and now the next step is to get the blades at 0 degrees using a digital pitch gauge. The issue with me is even with the subtrim they give you onscreen, I can't get less than 6 degrees. That's a long distance to go before getting to 0 degrees. Does anyone know what I should do? I followed all directions leading up to this point. Is there a sub trim in the DX9 that I can play with to get this down to 0 degrees? I would prefer not to make any mechanical changes.

Here's a screen shot of what I'm talking about:



Any ideas?

[kfjensen]

Is your pitch curve linear: 0-25-50-75-100? What pitch do have at mid stick and at full stick?

[alyon187]

Ive never used gpro before but most fbl ive used are about the same when it comes to zeroing the head at midstick. I would make sure you servo horns are at 90 degrees, servo to swash rods are at the given length as per the manual, then level your swash by raising or lowering the servo links, once its level then put the rest of your head on, put a screw driver through the blade grip bolt hole and adjust your pitxh links til its level w your mainshaft, once both blades are lined up w ms then put main blades on. At this point you should be almost dead set at 0 on should only need a few clicks on the collective tab to get your blades the rest of the way to 0. Check by putting fs in direction of flight (parallel to boom), fold blades to one side of heli and now they should be both at the same plane. If not add or lower that collective pitxh button til they do. Hope this helps a lil.

[digital911]

Originally Posted by kfjensen

Is your pitch curve linear: 0-25-50-75-100? What pitch do have at mid stick and at full stick?

Originally Posted by alyon187

Ive never used gpro before but most fbl ive used are about the same when it comes to zeroing the head at midstick. I would make sure you servo horns are at 90 degrees, servo to swash rods are at the given length as per the manual, then level your swash by raising or lowering the servo links, once its level then put the rest of your head on, put a screw driver through the blade grip bolt hole and adjust your pitxh links til its level w your mainshaft, once both blades are lined up w ms then put main blades on. At this point you should be almost dead set at 0 on should only need a few clicks on the collective tab to get your blades the rest of the way to 0. Check by putting fs in direction of flight (parallel to boom), fold blades to one side of heli and now they should be both at the same plane. If not add or lower that collective pitxh button til they do. Hope this helps a lil.

OK so I setup my throttle curve according to manual.

Then I took my head off, leveled all three servo horns at 90 degrees using a combination of adjusting the links mechanically and using the subtrim in the gpro menu. Then leveled my swash using just the gpro subtrim menu.

Then I put my DFC head back on, put my blades and used my digital pitch gauge. Now I was able to use the collective trim tab (I think it came out to -60ish) and achieved 0 degrees pitch.

Now here's my next question.

I tested both blades at 4 measuring points each. North, South, East, West (four 90 degree points out of 360 degree radius)

Both blades came out to within +- 0.1 degree pitch (from 0.0) around those four points per blade. Is this satisfactory?

[alyon187]

To clarify, pitch curve shoild be 0-100 at this point and you should have those measuring spots w your tx @ mid stick. If at mid stick you have your servo horns at 90, swash level, and 0 pitch on both blades (both blades should show the same pitch when measuring at the same location, or atleast within .3 of eachother) then your head sounds perfect. From here measure your max pitch, high and low should be equal. Cyclic pitch is set from the position as well.

[digital911]

Originally Posted by alyon187

To clarify, pitch curve shoild be 0-100 at this point and you should have those measuring spots w your tx @ mid stick. If at mid stick you have your servo horns at 90, swash level, and 0 pitch on both blades (both blades should show the same pitch when measuring at the same location, or atleast within .3 of eachother) then your head sounds perfect. From here measure your max pitch, high and low should be equal. Cyclic pitch is set from the position as well.

Yes both blades are reading identical at same position. However, manual calls for 0 degrees and I'm seeing more like 0.1 on the front, 0.0 on the Right, 0.0 on the back, and 0.1-0.2 on the left. This is the same for both blades. Is this good enough?

See diagram below:

[alyon187]

No one will feel 2 tenths of a degree difference in flight nor will the heli. Yes, that's as close to as perfect will come using a digital pitch gauge. Good job! W these numbers your tracking should be spot on.

[digital911]

Originally Posted by alyon187

No one will feel 2 tenths of a degree in flight nor will the heli. Yes, that's as close to as perfect will come using a digital pitch gauge. Good job! W these numbers your tracking should be spot on.

Excellent, thanks! It took a while. Thanks for your help (and everyone else), don't think I could have done it without you all.

Now on to the next step and surely I'll be back with more questions.

Stay tuned!

[alyon187]

Yah it takes a bit especially when figuring out the correct geometry to use to get the best resolution. But after one or two times it usually wont take more than 20 maybe 30 min to setup the head and run through the fbl system. Just like anything else you do... the more you do it, the easier it becomes.

[alyon187]

Any luck? You get a chance to maiden it yet?

[digital911]

Originally Posted by alyon187

Any luck? You get a chance to maiden it yet?

No, haven't had a time to complete head and tail setup. Hoping to have that soon. Will let you know!

[digital911]

Originally Posted by alyon187

Any luck? You get a chance to maiden it yet?

One thing that pops in my mind though, do I need to worry about balancing the blades on this kit?

[alyon187]

The align blades ive had are generally pretty well balanced. So you can if you want to but its not gonna cause you a crash if you dont. I have dynamically balanced my set of align blades on my x3 just because sometimes the head of the heli can be out of balance not the blades (my x3s head was out of balance by a small amount). But I wouldnt worry about it if you dont have a balancer.